Clutch Master Cylinder Replaced... Now Having Same Problems.

**Cr0wbar** · 24-10-2012 08:12 PM

Hi guys,

First some history.
So about a month ago I had my clutch master cylinder replaced on my '95 Integra VTi-R. I had the basic symptoms: a loss of clutch pressure and eventually a complete loss of clutch fluid.
So the cylnder was replaced and everything went great. However just this week I've noticed similar symptoms again. Basically the friction point of the clutch is very close to the firewall again, so I hardly bring my foot up off the clutch before the car starts moving (when in gear). I don't think I've lost any clutch fluid, it appears to all be there. And the car is still driveable.

I was just wondering if anybody had experienced similar problems or had any ideas on what may be causing this? If it matters, I do have a heavy duty clutch. Although I'm not sure what brand or model it is.

TL, DR: My clutch's friction point is close to the firewall. What do?

**tRipitaka** · 25-10-2012 08:31 AM

Adjust the nut on the clutch master cylinder for more pedal throw?

Do you feel that there's a large dead area before the clutch engages?

**mocchi** · 25-10-2012 09:02 AM

Replaced with bnib cmc or used?

**butterfingers** · 25-10-2012 09:06 AM

adjsut pedal free play.

**Cr0wbar** · 25-10-2012 10:04 AM

Oh sorry, I should have mentioned it was a brand new replacement. Not an OEM Honda part though.
Yes there is a larger dead zone than usual. I understand adjusting the bolt, but is it likely that's the fix? Everything was fine for 2 weeks after replacement, then the issue started.

**ECU-MAN** · 25-10-2012 10:10 AM

could be the slave cylinder or the hose leaking as well.

**kcokla** · 25-10-2012 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by butterfingers

adjsut pedal free play.

How do you do this?

**butterfingers** · 30-10-2012 12:53 PM

theres a nut somewhere behind the pedal. i suggest just go to an expert. Dedy can do it for u

**hoojee** · 31-10-2012 08:55 AM

attached image is specification to adjust the clutch pedal free play to factory specs. It's off the EK manual, but I can only assume it is the same for the DC2.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

All the stuff about the clutch switches dont apply as AUS models dont have them. Or at least I didnt have them on my EK when I adjusted my pedal.

The important part is just the from 1 to 4 and the measurement specs given.

**sammutn90** · 08-11-2012 05:50 PM

hey
i was reading the problem you had with your master cylinder i had the same problem aswell

change it but i didnt use oem master cylinder it was ohk for 2 weeks then after the pedal felt like there was to much freeplay not enought clutch pedal.

so to fixs the problem look at the master cylinder and there should be a 12mm nut loosen that and you can spin the nut with your hands make sure you spin the nut all the way to the end of the tread then get a pair or plyers and start turning the shaft or rod anticlockwise its easier to mark the rod with a black line so u know how much full turn u have done at first when you start to do it just do 3 full rotation turns on the rod and u should feel the pedal gettting firmer and then try it with your foot to test it if not firm enought keep adjustinng untill it gets firm but not to much tho. try not to loosen the rod cause is can cause the rod the pop of the thread housing and its a pain to put it back on. try that see if that helps

**eeko** · 08-11-2012 07:01 PM

ive personally found some non oem replacement master cylinders rubbish...

replaced my leaking one with a non oem unit and it felt crap and leaked within a month.... replaced it with an oem one when i got my clutch changed and its been good with no signs of leaking for 3 months already.