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  1. #1

    Bolt snapped whlist using Clutch EP3R

    so I was at a red light and when I pushed for the clutch to move the car at gear 1, something snapped then my clutch pedal became soft. i turned off the engine straight away and saw some white smoke coming out for a minute. (i heard a snapped noise)

    when i checked what was wrong, i found that a bolt on the bronze plate (on top of the steering rack) just below my m/s cylinders snapped off, found the head at the base of a medal. then i saw oil leaking from my cylinders where the plates are. when i press on the clutch, the plate opens up and leaks oil.

    I can also shift gears while the car is not started, clutch not pushed in
    car does not start unless i push the 'soft' clutch
    when the car is on, i cannot shift into any gear even while pressing on clutch

    the circled red dot is where the screw snapped and went missing



    i had to get the car towed to my house so either ill have to get the mobile mechanic to come check it out or someone here could tell me what has happened.

    car has 48,000km on it fitted with a exedy organic clutch a year and a half ago, still runs fine. which was driven for 15,000

    the NRMA dude said a bolt isnt suppose to snap like that so maybe something was wrong with it on the first place?

    anybody have any idea if i could simply replace the bolt and fill refill my cylinders or have to replace something major? or if you know any reputable mobile mechanics that would be able to help me, im all yours!

    thanks guys!

    edit: so it seems its my CMC plate, probably due to the exedy clutch.. does anybody know where to source out EP3r's CMC's? and should i replace my CSC while im at it?
    Last edited by miraitru; 16-11-2012 at 12:12 PM.

  2. #2
    No offence man, but that seems pretty serious, I would probably get a trained mechanic to look it over, because you never know what else might have gone wrong.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, West
    Car:
    EP3
    Change clutch master cylinder and bleed clutch fluid. After that you'll be good as new.

    Might be worth to check if the part is interchangeable with the DC5 equivalent.

  4. #4
    Just to elaborate on Symphorced post.

    The bolt snapped is 1 of 3 holding in the pressure plate.
    I'm aware this is a common occurrence for the DC5 and is well documented on the internet with DIY guides on removing / installing the part with photos.

    It maybe because you have an aftermarket / heavier clutch or it maybe due to its time, given the repetition and repeated use, its life may have just ended.

    However, I'm surprised that you've only done 48,000km. That leads me to ask, if you've checked or changed your clutch fluid?

    You'll need to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder, as I wouldn't recommend repairing it.

    A brand new from CMC for the DC5 will cost you $230, as a friend recently purchased it from there.

    The part is interchangeable from the AUDM DC5R as per:
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-Parts-for-EP3
    "DC5R - Clutch Cylinder - FITS EP3"

    I know 1st hand that the DC5S (05-06) model will fit a DC5R (02-04) model. So you are able to use any DC5 R or S clutch master cylinder.

    **UPDATE**
    USDM Civic SI CMC or USDM RSX CMC will not fit our AUDM / JDM DC5's / EP3's.
    They're LHD and have different dimensions to our RHD - wont slot into the two holes in the firewall.


    If you choose to replace the part yourself, here is the DIY guide for reference to assist you.

    ClubRSX: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...aster+cylinder
    Please note that this is for the RSX and it is LHD. The obvious being that your CMC will be on other side of the car.
    You should just be following the basic instructions on how to remove it.

    Once you've removed it, replace the part and install everything back.
    Then you will need to bleed the clutch line.
    ClubRSX: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=597402

    Once you've bled it, you should be good to go.

    Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
    Last edited by butter; 05-01-2015 at 10:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    P1.5 460F/350R
    fuark best post
    feel my bbc penetrate
    S P A M | W O R K S
    With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre

  6. #6
    been waiting for quite some time for a decent reply post! but yeah ive found a 2nd hand unit cmc, jdmyard's able to get me a new unit for 180$ but it would take 2 weeks for delivery, **** that for now. im able to get a 2nd hand one as "new" cmc's that i have tried to buy from mekong spares in sydney does not include the triangular pressure plate? wtf? was stumped when i saw it.

    i have replaced the cmc but having trouble to bleed it atm, as im missing the 'one man bleeder' haha. tried pumping my pedal to bleed it but had no response or any pressure so it gets stuck to the floor, wondering if i need to bench bleed or reverse bleed it? -.- fml

    anyway, last question. so if i were to buy the civic si cmc it'll be fine even without the triangular pressure plate?

    thanks heaps butter!

  7. #7
    @miraitru - Check your Inbox!

    To answer your question earlier, it is very unlikely you will need to replace your CSC due to this fault with the CMC. It has been noted on ClubRSX forums that it is very unlikely the CSC will fail in time with the CMC.

    Regarding bleeding your clutch:
    The clutch pedal will not have any noticeable pressure and will not rise back to the original position by itself.
    You will need to grasp hold with the pedal with your hand to be able to push down and PULL the pedal up to return to its original position.

    Note: Be sure to do it slowly, as I'm under the impression, by pumping too quickly, it makes noises as if you're sucking in air through the reservoir into the line. However, as I’ve only bled the clutch solo, I haven’t had a second pair of eyes to confirm. Can someone confirm this for me?

    How I bled the clutch:
    From the link I had posted above, I followed the instructions to bleed the clutch via the Clutch Slave Cylinder. (For the DC5, it was located on the right side, on the lower part of the intake manifold)
    You’ll need to research to see where it is located for the EP3 however I believe it is in a very similar position.

    1) Using a 8mm socket, loose the bleed valve (only a notch to loosen it) and attach a 5-6mm (diameter) clear hose to the nipple end. You can get these from Masters / Bunnings under the plumbing section.

    2) Attach the clear rubber / vinyl hose onto the loosen bleed valve.

    3) Feed the hose into a bottle / glass as this will contain the fluid you pump through.

    4) Remove the clutch fluid reservoir lid as you will need to pour in DOT 4 brake fluid periodically

    5) As above, pump the clutch pedal (having to lift the pedal back up as it will not do so by itself)

    6) As you pump the clutch pedal, you should notice the brake fluid being pumped through the reservoir into the master cylinder -> slave cylinder -> out the bleed valve -> into the attached clear hose and into your container (bottle).

    At most, 5-6 pumps of the clutch pedal before you will have to refill your reservoir.

    Note: Avoid pumping when the reservoir is below “LOW” as you may suck in air. If so, you’re back to square one with the bleed process and need to ensure that that air is out of the lines.

    7) Repeat the process of pumping the clutch pedal and filling up the reservoir with fluid as you pump. Pay attention to the clear hose and note for any air bubbles evident in the lines.

    8) Once you’re satisfied that there is no trace of air in the lines, try to torque/tighten up the bleed valve with the clear hose still attached.

    9) Top up the reservoir back to “MAX” and secure the Clutch Fluid reservoir back on.

    10) Pump the clutch with your foot and test for any signs of loss in pressure. If so, check to see if there are any leaks.

  8. #8
    yep thanks for all the help butter, everythings working fine now. new cmc for 175$. drive belts are squealing now for some reason after not driving for a few days.

    but thanks for your help! the slave cylinder is a bitch to get to, tried pumping using a hose to reverse pump it but thought it was out of air but still had no pressure so ditched that method and just got a mate to pump the clutch while i open/close the slave valve.

    +rep!
    Last edited by miraitru; 20-11-2012 at 08:30 PM.

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3
    i had something similar happen to me a year ago...

    my master and slave cylinder busted and couldnt get the car to move out of my drive way... had to push the damn thing out..

    could start the car but couldnt get into gear and there was no pressure on my clutch peddle...

  10. #10
    least it broke in your drive way right? lol, worse off if youre middle of no where, your slave was busted as well at the same time? i think mine was squeaking when i push the pedal in/out, should probably replace it as well..

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3
    yeah lucky for me it was busted in my drive way

    because i was actually going to gosford the next day..

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    In the middle of no where
    Car:
    BA7
    you can do this:

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