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***HELP*** Driver Door Ajar Sensor (open/close) not working
Need help here. My driver's side door ajar sensor isn't working.
I've tried troubleshooting the problem, all the power windows, central locking and speakers are all working, I get a power reading of 12V and 9V for my courtesy light.
For all the other doors, the interior lights turn on when open and the door ajars are working when I press them.
The driver's door ajar, however, isn't registered by the car that it's open. I don't see the red line/light for the drivers door on the dashboard when it's open. Light's won't turn on either.
I've checked the connection from the inside, and it's secure, not sure what/where the problem is. I have a feeling it may be the Body Control Module (BCM). But I am not sure where it is and which wires/pins to look at.
Could also possibly be the wiring, I am not sure how to take out the drivers door panel, so any tips or advance on how to would be much welcomed as I don't want to pull too hard and break something or wrap the plastic.
Any help or advise would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
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Maybe that black rubber housing from the first pic isn't working?
Im sure you can peel back the rubber and test the voltage/ground/connection to it?
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The black rubber housing you're referring to is the door ajar.
I've tested it, no reading. Bolt's really firmly secured too.
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Maybe the light in the dash is out?
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@ Moderators, would you be able to move this to a general discussion forum rather than model specific?
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narh, it's probably 2 things:
1) the connection to the BCM or
2) the wiring is disconnected somewhere (i.e. in the driver door panel)
If someone can link me to how I can remove the driver door panel and the fuse panel, that would be awesome!!
I can almost get it out, but there's just something that's keeping it stuck in, I don't wanna just yank it out with brute force as I might snap/break it.
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The black door switch has probably failed. Could be corrosion in there.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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Originally Posted by aaronng
The black door switch has probably failed. Could be corrosion in there.
No, no signs of corrosion. Though I wish it were that simple. I've taken it rubber cover off and it's perfectly fine, no current/voltage reading though..
Would you happen to know how to take the driver's door panel off by any chance Aaron?
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Originally Posted by wammies
No, no signs of corrosion. Though I wish it were that simple. I've taken it rubber cover off and it's perfectly fine, no current/voltage reading though..
Would you happen to know how to take the driver's door panel off by any chance Aaron?
The door panel on the bottom next to the boot lever? Yeah, it's just one of those "pull carefully" type of trim. There are no clips or screws. I can get more detailed info for you once I get home. With that off, you should be able to trace the wire back to the fusebox, hopefully it is just a loose connection since you are not getting 12V to the switch in the first place.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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Originally Posted by wammies
No, no signs of corrosion. Though I wish it were that simple. I've taken it rubber cover off and it's perfectly fine, no current/voltage reading though..
Would you happen to know how to take the driver's door panel off by any chance Aaron?
u mean the KICK panel!
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Originally Posted by GU357
u mean the KICK panel!
Isn't the kick panel the bit underneath the steering wheel.... it's where the coin box and VSA switches are...
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@Aaron, thanks for the info, just seems like a bitch to take off. I just shoved the speaker cables from underneath since I couldn't take it out when I wired the front driver's. If you can just pull it out carefully then I might, coz it felt like there was something holding it down.
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