Misfiring Rotrex K20a HELP!

[mocchi]

i guess next to try would be more e85 from different station.
i dont see anything funny in the datalog other than that constant vss, revs really slow from 3krpm to 4krpm like 3 seconds?
you got any other longer WOT datalog? this one is like only 2 seconds of WOT.

[Tom eg5]

Yeah that data logging was a short drive. Only has one run in it though where i hit 100% throttle. And you can see the rpm break up as its misfiring.

Bad fuel would be a good outcome! I just thought if it was that, it would run bad all the time under any throttle conditions, and idle bad.

[Tom eg5]

i guess next to try would be more e85 from different station.
i dont see anything funny in the datalog other than that constant vss, revs really slow from 3krpm to 4krpm like 3 seconds?
you got any other longer WOT datalog? this one is like only 2 seconds of WOT.

My VSS doesnt work so i have to set a constant speed signal. Yeah thats it misfiring and hesitating. Um a have a couple but the WOT look pretty much the same as that.. I don't let the rev's slowly climb any higher because it just feels so bad.

[mocchi]

Originally Posted by hoddy
I have recently had the rare opportunity, of being able to tune my car using AFM & then MAP based tuning
My car has a Rotrex supercharger 12 psi boost, J tune exhaust, air intake ect, after having the car dyno tuned it was making 330 BHP which I thought was great
After driving around for a week I noticed that the car was jerky, idled roughly & had a power band like a 2 stroke, running very rich
I ended up contacting E-Tunze & Vitialy (Vit) e-mailed me so I sent the tune to him, & basicaly needed to re tune the tune
Once the AFM tune was complete (I thought) the car was wonderfull, mid range increased, no flat spots, throttle response good & then Vit asked me if I had considered a MAP based tune as the AFM tune was maxed out & there was still more left to tune
So I thought why not as if it was no good I could always change back
After a lot of data logging & re mapping & after about 2/3rds of the way through the spark plugs started to misfire & so they were replaced (BKR8EIX)
In the end this tune won me over as throttle response was better, part throttle excellent, there is extra mid range & a little more in the top end, transition to V-tech & boost more linear, but it is the overall feel of the car was much better, smoother
To be fair because of the new plugs I put the AFM tune back & drove the car to work & back about 60 klms & noticed straight away the difference, the car was blunted more sluggish, less responsive, part throttle not as good ( do not get me wrong still very good)
I then re installed the MAP tune & it just re confirmed how much better it is, I would recommend this type of tune even though there is a few dramas with the fuel guage (just nick picking)
When I get the chance I will compare both tunes on a dyno run & post the results, should be interesting
I would like to thank Vit for his help & patience, it certainly taught me a few lessons

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/honda...ap-vs-afm.html

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...-tractor/page5

so revolves around spark plugs, coil packs and injectors. hondata says around 12:1 for sc, yours showing 11:1 on those 2 seconds WOT?
maybe too rich?

Update: 15/05/10 Tuning Update!

KRAFTWERKS FTW! Simply an amazing supercharger kit. I've spent some time today tuning the car both on low and high cam. Unfortunately, we couldnt completely tune high cams due to spark issue (need cooler spark plugs). All in all, the car has been fully tuned on low cam. It makes amazing power off VTEC, and simply screams in vtec up to 8000rpm. Without vtec, the car makes a healthy 150kw @5800rpm's

We could only managed one run up to 7800rpm before it started to misfire again. It made 210kw @7800rpms 10psi on 0 cam angles. With more fine tuning of cams angles, ignition & fuel, we are hoping to make close to the 230-240kw mark @ 8300-8400rpms.

We'll be back on the dyno on tuesday with the new gearbox to finish off the high cam tuning

Here are some pictures of the car on the dyno

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...e/IMGP0784.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...e/IMGP0783.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...e/IMGP0786.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...e/IMGP0790.jpg

Dyno Run Video
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...h_IMGP0788.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...t=IMGP0788.flv)

[Tom eg5]

So far ive tried Iridium 8s, HKS Race plugs (8s), Iridium 9s and Copper 7s. Same problems even with a range of gapping

[Tom eg5]

Its a conservative/safe tune so id rather it run a bit rich. But yeah i had the same problems on the dyno with it breaking up at high rpm's.. And the new plugs managed to work for a bit to get some tuning done. The next day i then gapped the plugs down and the car ran awesome.

[mocchi]

should call your tuner and ask for some help
post at hondata forums as well maybe?

[Tom eg5]

He's baffled as well as everything looks ok on my MAP and Datalogs.. Yeah ive posted it over on k20a.org too. Been researching for a few weeks and im just running out of idea's now.. Ill play around with different coilpack combinations tomorrow and see if i do infact have 2 that are broken.

If its not fuel or spark, it will be compression. So ill be doing a compression test soon if i still have no luck. Hopefully haven't blown my headgasket.

[mocchi]

tell me how your mate test the coilpack and ill test mine tomorrow, this should help rule out your spare coilpack dud

[Chr1s]

What is your power/ground source to the ignition system like?
Does this get worse with heat?

[Tom eg5]

How do i check power/ground source to my ignition? Just test the coilpack plugs?

Well it must, as it was fine driving around for 10-15min drives.. Still was up at running temp.. But as soon as i took it on the 1hr drive it messed up. Weird..

[stndrd]

Have you checked your Coolant Temp Sensor? What do your plugs look like when they get pulled out (ie Heavily Carbon'd, any danage to the electrode)? 11:1 does sound a bit rich but the more i read your symptoms, the more i believe it is a coil pack breaking down. Have you tried with brand new ones and not just what is lying around?