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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    St Lucia, Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG hatch
    Quote Originally Posted by androo View Post
    Hey matey,

    just wanted to confitm that you are looking at about 70kw TOTAL at the wheels. Not a gain of 70kw. That would be one magician of an intake.
    oh well can't win em all.

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    SW Vic
    Car:
    88 CRX B16a
    Quote Originally Posted by androo View Post
    Hey matey,
    just wanted to confitm that you are looking at about 70kw TOTAL at the wheels. Not a gain of 70kw. That would be one magician of an intake.
    indeed. or a Mighty big Snail attached there.

  3. #15
    Lightweight flywheel and HD clutch, will make a big differences to driving and you will feel more than another other bolt on intake9exhaust mods.
    EG

  4. #16
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    60-70KW was an answer to your questions 'what power will I make?'. Gains themselves probably 5kw from intake and exhaust.

    I'd recommend not changing your intake manifold and that would be a waste of time but if you insist then I would strongly suggest the D16Y8 manifold. It makes more mid-high end power.

    If you want it to sound like you're going faster then do your intake and all your exhaust. Might be a handful of kw.

    If you want to actually go faster then get a lightweight flywheel and a higher FD. Or go turbo of course.

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    PnP Garage
    Car:
    BREEZE
    5.x+ fd, lightweight flywheel & HD clutch.

    Then you miiiiiiiiight get it move, a bit.
    part time potato

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    FD1 , ED6, e30
    I would just boost it, and run it to the ground, have a lil fun with that and do a motor swap, a k-swap =)
    Stanced cars are like girls in high heels, sexy as hell, extremely impractical

    www.flickr.com/photos/xposure2010

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Front yard
    Car:
    4WD 89 Concerto
    Quote Originally Posted by Vvvtec View Post
    5.x+ fd, lightweight flywheel & HD clutch.

    Then you miiiiiiiiight get it move, a bit.
    + M Factory short ratio gears.....
    OEM parts whore

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Sydney west
    Car:
    ek.k24a
    unless u are doing a full rebuild with a truck turbo on it i wouldn't bother !
    do b or k would be way better more costy but a d series is always going to be a d series
    d16y4>>k24a3 for the win !!!!

  9. #21
    Keep the D, spend all the money on a compressor / die grinder / dremel and misc pieces. Buy a head thats the same one as youve got now, attack it with aforementioned tools to try make it flowier. Stick it on a dyno to see if it worked. Repeat the process a few times (maybe buy a bunch of heads in bulk?) and teach yourself how to clean up a head. When time comes that youve got more money for a more powerful build, youve got the skills to do some of the work yourself.

    AKA, invest in yourself rather than the D.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Melburn
    Car:
    S2K
    Get an ebay turbo kit and be happy with what you haul with it on the streets!

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    South East Melbourne
    Car:
    Civic EJ8
    ask mugen_ctr about tuning D-series his building a turbo D16Y8 and could help you on which parts would give you considerable power gains.

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Is your car a manual or auto?
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

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