I know I've said it in many other threads, but I feel the need to say it again here.
The VTEC (secondary cam lobe) engagement point isn't something that you want as early (or as late) as possible. You won't (necessarily) get more power by making it kick in earlier. Ideally what you would want is to have is a very smooth power curve, by having it engage right where the primary cam lobes begin to run out of puff, or if you looked at a dyno graph with vtec disabled, it would be right where the line starts to drop.
When to set the engagement point will vary depending on your cams and cam timing. But when the vehicle is stock, the engagement point is already set in the correct place and should not be changed until you mod your engine in a way that changes its internal characteristics. By this I mean cams or timing, with the only exception (external mod) being changing to a single stage manifold on a B18C2 (DC2 VTiR).
-ZAMMIN-
"I know who you are, and I know if I make a formal complaint Mr. Benjamin will have to roll over and give me all your details"
Altering the VTEC point I would think is similar to using adjustable cam gears on stock cams. You might gain a little bit but lose something in return. Usually more to lose than gain.
that would merely adjust the timing so that it might be more accurate at higher revs but be open too soon at low revs causing torque loss since the combustion power would travel right up the valve instead of push the piston, would be good for anti lag on turbo.
but as standard for some reason it seems that the B series seem to have a pre Vtec dip. that once tuned out is better
that would merely adjust the timing so that it might be more accurate at higher revs but be open too soon at low revs causing torque loss since the combustion power would travel right up the valve instead of push the piston, would be good for anti lag on turbo.
but as standard for some reason it seems that the B series seem to have a pre Vtec dip. that once tuned out is better
Today I was having another look at the vtec control settings and found that I can easily switch between factory setting and the modified lower rpm setting. So luckily I didnt lose the modified setting because I'm fairly sure the numbers should be precise.
apexi afc neo only change the vtec point, but it doesnt automatically adjust the fuel or ignition to suit.
most of the time you will lost power without actually tune it.
hondata changes the vtec point and ignition fuel to suit by itself.
if you want to be serious about it, get a hondata.
afc neo can only get you so far.
hondata or power FC opens up a lot more.
connorling, your profile and evidenced by your post tells me alot about what type of feral you are..... all class 'hay'!!!! ps. not your m8....
apexi afc neo only change the vtec point, but it doesnt automatically adjust the fuel or ignition to suit.
most of the time you will lost power without actually tune it.
hondata changes the vtec point and ignition fuel to suit by itself.
if you want to be serious about it, get a hondata.
afc neo can only get you so far.
hondata or power FC opens up a lot more.
it's had it's AFR and vtec point tuned on the dyno, best leave it be.
apexi afc neo only change the vtec point, but it doesnt automatically adjust the fuel or ignition to suit.
most of the time you will lost power without actually tune it.
hondata changes the vtec point and ignition fuel to suit by itself.
if you want to be serious about it, get a hondata.
afc neo can only get you so far.
hondata or power FC opens up a lot more.
Im some what disagree. If your not plaining to do internal work inside the engine. just simple I,H,E why not tune,adjust vtec with a apexi. I got both great result on the dyno and on the drag strip!
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
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