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  1. #25
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Car:
    2006 DC5S
    Quote Originally Posted by Rage King View Post
    Mono blocks are generally used as the term of running 1 powerful sub (1chan bridged mode)

    But if your going to use a 2/1channel mono block then you will only need to run 1 pair of RCAs from the HU (sub-out) then connect these two RCAs to your amp input. Then hook up your output channels 1 & 2 to each of your subs (2).

    If your planning to run and utilise your dual voice coils setup on both subs then you will need a min of 800wrms per channel.

    So if 1 sub is 450rms @ 4ohms.. Then you use DVC to lets say 2ohms then your new total will be approx 850wrms per sub (cant remember the exact formula). So in saying this you will need at least a min 800wrms amp to run 1 sub.
    A mono amp is 1 ch regaurdless to how many subs you run off it, i ch in and 1 ch out. ohms is a rating on resistance levels generally everytime its halved the power level doubles
    if an amp is 400w rms at 4 ohm
    it will be roughly (depending on quality and tolerence) 800w rms at 2 ohm

  2. #26
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Car:
    2006 DC5S
    Thickness of power wire is also determined by distance for a small car running around the 1000 rms mark im with Rage King 4 ga is fine

  3. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Rage King View Post
    I think that kenwoods are entry level seeing that its only got 1 pair of rca sub/rear pre-outs with 2v.

    U can still use this HU to run 1 amp and 1 or 2 subs..

    Again, it will come to the decision on how much bass/power you want to hear/feel. The amp will be your biggest challenge.

    My suggestions would be;

    Buy the pioneer package that comes with the 6inch speakers $130rrp (approx). This HU has way more options with regards to high/mid/low filters / frequency settings built in the HU. As well as for the sub control too.

    Unlike kenwoods they only have high/mod/low without the option to finer tune the frequencies and gains.

    Amp;
    If your planning 1 sub @ 4ohms the a 600wrms amp will do the trick.

    If 2 subs @ 4ohms each then a 1200wrms amp will be sufficient.

    Then if you plan to much round with DVCs then you will need a much higher amp output.

    4gauge amp kit will be sufficient..

    0 gauge is way too big... Unless your planning to run a 3cap farad...and enter the sounds offs at the auto salon comps.. Lol
    Okay. Don't worry about the Rockfords! I'm going into Alpine now aha.

    I'm 98% sure now that I'm gonna get a Alpine 1800W Type R 12" sub
    4-Layer Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohms
    (RMS
    RANGE 300-600w)

    with a Alpine 1100W Mono Block Amp (RMS 550)

    Is this a near perfect/good set up? :|

  4. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by LIVE DC5 View Post
    Thickness of power wire is also determined by distance for a small car running around the 1000 rms mark im with Rage King 4 ga is fine
    Stuff the set up I was talking about before or whatever.

    How about ...

    A Alpine 1800W Type R 12" sub
    4-Layer Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohms
    (RMS
    RANGE 300-600w)

    with a Alpine 1100W Mono Block Amp (RMS 550)

    Yay or nay? Sorry for being so noob. :/

  5. #29
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Planet Earth
    Car:
    RB1 & GTR33V
    ^^that combo is fine.

    Ive got a 12in fusion power transplant sub which can run 4/2/1ohms @ 1ohms its rated at 2200wrms lolwut!!

    Though i only ran a jaycar response digital monoblock which i had it setup at 1ch .. With capable output of 1600wrms.. It wasnt enough output power to my subs to hear/feel the full potential but it did its job to my listening ears... Also i sure my amp wasnt producing that much output power due to just running a 4gauge +power and no farad cap.. My lights would flicker at night at full blast!! Lol..

    If i had a farad then ill be close but since the power was relying on the cars battery + oem alternator and other vehicle running necessities i was still happy.

    Be sure to read and follow the owners manual for the amp operation and settings. And with any subs - be sure to know what is the optimal cubic per sq / liters for the box capacity...

    Otherwise youll blow something up and could cause major fire hazard.

    Gl champ and let us know what u went with..
    RB1-ODC

  6. #30
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Planet Earth
    Car:
    RB1 & GTR33V
    here is the specs of my amp currently - i guess my earlier figures could be wrong as i wasnt sure.. hehehe


    Response 1000WRMS Linkable Car Monoblock Amplifier


    Monstrous, bleeding-eardrum power and high efficiency in an extremely compact chassis. It has dual MOSFET power supplies and is stable driving 1 or 2 ohm loads. In addition, you get variable bass boost, adjustable phase shift, low pass filter and master/slave operation. Optional remote bass gain controller.

    • Speaker short, over current, thermal and DC protection
    • 4 AWG power terminals

    Specifications:
    • Power output:
    • 1000WRMS @ 1 ohm mono 14.4V
    • 600WRMS @ 2 ohms mono 14.4V
    • 1800WRMS @ 2 ohm linkable, dual mono 14.4V
    • Low pass filter: 30 - 250Hz
    • Bass boost: 0 - 12dB
    • Phase shift: 0 -180°
    • Dimensions: 300(L) x 170(W) x 50(H)mm
    RB1-ODC

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