I've done it, on both stock struts and aftermarket. You may need to modify the washer of the camber bolt for clearance on the flange area of the strut. You may also have interference between a small nub on the top inboard side of the knuckle at full negative camber as the adjustment pushes the knuckle very close to the strut. Would recommend it for circuit use. Too much camber on the front of a DC5 is often hardly enough.
I've done it, on both stock struts and aftermarket. You may need to modify the washer of the camber bolt for clearance on the flange area of the strut. You may also have interference between a small nub on the top inboard side of the knuckle at full negative camber as the adjustment pushes the knuckle very close to the strut. Would recommend it for circuit use. Too much camber on the front of a DC5 is often hardly enough.
How much camber were you able to get on stock and aftermarket with 2 bolts?
How much camber were you able to get on stock and aftermarket with 2 bolts?
So if i get 1 bolt better to use the bottom one?
I got -1.8 on stock struts with two bolts per side, but that was because one side started slightly positive because my subframe isn't in quite the right spot. You might get slightly more.
Aftermarket isn't relevant but I got anywhere from -6 to -4.
If you're using stock struts it's easier to put the bolts in the top holes, as then you don't have to modify the washer. Easier to access to adjust too but as I mentioned above the knuckle might hit the strut at full negative adjustment with the bolt in the top hole, so you might be better served by putting them in the bottom holes.
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Originally Posted by chargeR
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