Rotor and brake pad recommendations

**Baby Face** · 07-05-2013 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by curtis265

Nah they're fine.

The problem is when you have a weakness that changes the metallic structure all the way through.

I would assume most slutted rotors are cast in (someone correct me here)

inb4 chiseled

**ecraig** · 08-05-2013 08:28 AM

Use bendix, it is more expensive but you dont get any problems. You basically get what you pay for. Rda or Dba either one is good, i found other brands of brake pads seem to have problems.

**Stevil** · 08-05-2013 08:47 AM

Mate I'm onto my 4th set of REMSA 650 and without a doubt they are an awesome road pad, I used em at the track aswell, I have been getting 3 trackdays and 30,000km. If I didnt use em on the track then Im sure 60,000km would be possible. The best bit is the price, I pay $89 for fronts and $79 for rear ( I pick em up from the wharehouse at Wetherill Pk) del is $10. They arent noisy at all but do produce a bit of dust. Initial bit on the street is fantatsic

QFM, personally Ive used 2 sets of the A1RM 770 on the track and whilst they pulled up great they arent a quality product. I got about 70 laps at Winton recently on the A1RM's and on the way home I almost rear ended due to no pad material left on oneside !!! one of the other pads had the braking material seperate from the backing plate. In all honesting the QC is shit and your risking ya life with em. I wont be using them anymore as Ill be upgrading to Hawks.

DBA4000 rotors for me aswell, a mate of mine tried the RDA's and really bad cracking meant they ended up in the bin. DBA4000 can be had for $330 a set, plenty of sellers on here.

**TGW92** · 08-05-2013 08:58 AM

As Stevil mentioned above, Remsa pads are absolutely fantastic!!

Huge over in Europe, they are very cheap if you go through somewhere like brakes direct...

I have been using Remsa pads with dba 4000 series rotors (and braided lines/synthetic fluid) for around 8 months now and it is still a fantastic braking setup, I have never experienced braking fade no matter how hard I've pushed it. The Remsa pads have a very high friction coefficient at high temperatures!!

As for rotors, the 5000 series for the dc5 are more expensive, but as you probably know they are 2 piece, so they will be cheaper to replace in the long term...

I have also had friends crack rda rotors and wish they had paid the extra for dba in the first place...

**Stevil** · 08-05-2013 09:35 AM

Yeah I think RDA's may be OK for street work, but put em in a heavish car or track em and bad cracking seems to occur too often.

**mugsee** · 08-05-2013 11:39 AM

I've run about 230km at the track on a set of solid RDA rotors that I picked up for ~ $110 each and they haven't failed on me, yet. A good warm up and cool down lap will prevent any kind of temperature shock which is what generally promotes cracking. If you're not tracking the car, you shouldn't have any issues with heat and cracking, unless if you treat the street as a race track.

Pad wise, I'd agree with DaveHo's 2nd post about pads being a compromise in some form or another (and his other post about brake fluid). Are you after any particular kind of brake upgrade? Do you find your current brake setup deficient in some way? ie. not enough bite, fading on spirited drives, etc.

**FoShizz** · 08-05-2013 11:49 AM

My brakes dont bite aswell still drivable though, has really bad screeching now that was never there since i owned the car til recently, rotors are rusted, and brake pads i have than 5000km left. Im definitely going to change the brake fluid and im quite keen on getting braided brake lines now after doing more research here and there they seem like a solid upgrade

**mugsee** · 08-05-2013 02:19 PM

Have you inspected how much brake pad is left lately? The screeching might be because your brake pads are low and the wear indicator might be engaging.

Brake lines will promote a consistent & firmer pedal feel and good brake fluid will help prevent brake fade. I've used Motul RBF600 and ATE Blue/Amber on track and have been happy with both.

Btw, its normal for rotors to collect a thin film of rust if the car hasn't been driven around for a while. It should disappear once you start driving and engaging the brakes.

**FoShizz** · 08-05-2013 04:00 PM

when i got my coilovers installed at BYP roughly 2.5 weeks ago i asked them to check out my brake pads and they said i have about 5000km left, i drive everyday aswell so trying to get them changed asap but i thought since im changing brake pads might aswell do the more just to minimise any potential future problems thats why im looking into rotors, brake fluid, and braided lines aswell rather than just brake pads.

is wheel alignment recommended after changing brake lines, fliud, rotors, and pads?