first day driving my dc5r !

[RA73DR]

do you know how big your front and rear sway are ?

[type_AHH]

do you know how big your front and rear sway are ?

The Whiteline rear sway bar (solid) is 24mm

EP3R front sway bar (hollow) is 25.4mm

=]

[DreadAngel]

im actually going on your recomendation of the spring and ahock combo thats why i thought id ask you about the bushes. i dont want to rwplace them unless thwy are work really. should i expect them to be worn ?

what about the sway bars what do you recomend hollow or solid ? ill start researching it now so i can tell.them to put an order through or not when they call.

also koni shocks , i am.hoping to purchase them in a week or two, not sure where to get tjem from sydney for 900 (online 880 but rather buy then get it delivered).

since they have life warranty, if something happens to them do i usually contact koni directly or the shop i bought them of ?

Re: Bushes - Bushes are optional however as your car is getting on near 10 yrs, most likely the suspension bushes have never been changed and by now will be squashed/worn so it will revitalise your car's handling and behaviour. If you're unsure, go underneath the car and check the condition of various suspension bushes for fraying/cracks/etc.

Re: Swaybars - Hollow or Solid it doesn't matter too much for you however hollow are lighter but less effective ie to match the rigidity of the solid, you have to go larger in diameter of a hollow. It's just something to know about

Re: Koni - You have to be careful, usually with most companies there is Geo-Blocking ie Within country of purchase so if you bought from say Koni USA then your warranty might be valid only to them. This might not be the case with Koni but best to check

2 questions:
1: when you put the sway bar on, what difference did you notice on overall and handling performance, and
2: arent you going to put a front sway bar as well ?

#01 - Like the others have mentioned, in general, you'll notice the body roll is minimised or eliminated. Get your combination wrong though and your car can become oversteer/understeer prone.

#02 - Only a RSB or both FSB and RSB is highly dependent on your car's factory setup and your driver preference. In general, FWD cars tend to be understeer bias from factory. Adding just a RSB, if the sizing is done correctly against the factory FSB, the car can be neutral or bias towards oversteer. IF you go too big with RSB and makes your FWD car a little too tail nervous, you can counter with a thicker front sway =)

[RA73DR]

The Whiteline rear sway bar (solid) is 24mm

EP3R front sway bar (hollow) is 25.4mm

=]

since you put them on have you noticed it ubdersteering of oversteering more or less since it was stock

[EKVTIR-T]

I found after front swaybar upgrade I need better tyres as it begin to plough understeer and lose traction on turn

for fwd I think keep the front oem and only upgrade rear

this is for doubru wishbone btw

[DreadAngel]

since you put them on have you noticed it ubdersteering of oversteering more or less since it was stock

Answer is...

1. It feels quite good, it definitely reduces understeer during spirited driving though I'll never feel its full effect because I have no intention of ever tracking my car =P

I found after front swaybar upgrade I need better tyres as it begin to plough understeer and lose traction on turn

for fwd I think keep the front oem and only upgrade rear

this is for doubru wishbone btw

^

This, very important, match your suspension against your tyres + application

[RA73DR]

Answer is...






^

This, very important, match your suspension against your tyres + application

i was just asking for his personal impression of upgrading front and rear sway bar.
would you recomend me to just go whiteline rear sway bar or also add ep3 front (plan is headers in future).

also for tires, hen buying tires is there a certain tire you ask for, or you just ask for grippy road tires or? (again, coming from the charade i just use to get cheap tires for it as long as they were good tread i wasnt worried lol).

thanks guys

[HauLe_]

If you are planning on buying headers from japan or a japanese brand like toda, you will need at least the ep3r front sway bar to fit. The audm front sway bar is too small for the headers to clear it. I'm not sure if you need the front sway for plm headers.

[DreadAngel]

i was just asking for his personal impression of upgrading front and rear sway bar.
would you recomend me to just go whiteline rear sway bar or also add ep3 front (plan is headers in future).

also for tires, hen buying tires is there a certain tire you ask for, or you just ask for grippy road tires or? (again, coming from the charade i just use to get cheap tires for it as long as they were good tread i wasnt worried lol).

thanks guys

All good man, was just pointing out he mentioned his experience

Go for which ever RSB you feel comfy with, if it feels excessively nervous then you balance with FSB

See where your budget and applications are

DC5R came with I think Bridgestone RE040? So best to at least get tyres of that grade otherwise you'll find the Type-R won't live up to your expectations. Minimum I recommend are Tyres similar to Bridgestone Potenza RE002 level of performance. If you can get something like Yoko Advan AD08/AD08R, BS Potenza RE11, Dunlop Direzza Starspec Z2 then you're on the money =)

[RA73DR]

I have also been recomended hankooks not sure the actual spec but.

I also need to change my breaks and machine my rotors.
I got recomended a brand called ebc red stuff ?

Do you think they are good or overboard or too little ?

Also i may be incorrect with my train of thought but i was planning on only changine the front since when im braking im only using the front lol or do you reckon i should go all round

[DreadAngel]

I have also been recomended hankooks not sure the actual spec but.

I also need to change my breaks and machine my rotors.
I got recomended a brand called ebc red stuff ?

Do you think they are good or overboard or too little ?

Also i may be incorrect with my train of thought but i was planning on only changine the front since when im braking im only using the front lol or do you reckon i should go all round

Hankooks usually the RS3 [Equivalent to AD08/RE11/Z2] that shines in their lineup =) If working on a budget then the RS3s are a good one, also Kumho KU36s are ok too BUT the KU36 wet weather performance is dismal...

So the brakes did have issues before hand?

EBC Red Stuff are okay, I personally don't like them [I prefer Endless/Dixcel] but others have found EBC's range to be good. QFM and Project Mu are another brand to check out too.

You're train of thought is "OK" if:

• Rear is still in really good condition
  &
• The parts you use for the front aren't too aggressive otherwise your braking bias and balance will be out of whack

[type_AHH]

since you put them on have you noticed it understeering of oversteering more or less since it was stock

The rear bar definitely makes the most difference.
Overall driving on the street, even on the stiffer setting (Whiteline is 2 point adjustable) the car behaves as normal as you can expect. During more spirited driving, understeer is reduced and if pushed hard enough (on the very few occasions I have), the car can oversteer but it's quite manageable.

With the front, to be honest I don't feel a noticeable difference at all.

Most other DC5R owners I know/talk to tend to just use EP3R front sway also, mainly to clear after market header.
I feel that it's adequate for a majority of people.