Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 25 to 33 of 33
  1. #25
    If you're running a wide rim at +25 you're going to have to be running a fair amount of camber... I wouldn't run more than about a 6" wheel at +25 on a Teg if you wanted to be getting the wheels under the guards without massaging them and running camber. I've just been doing that as a thought exercise actually because I was thinking about doing exactly that. I'd be erring more towards +30(ish) if you wanted to run a wider rim than a 7 and then a bit more for an 8. Maybe that's just wisdom of running cars with aggressive offset and camber where shoulder wear was telling me about half of the tire was on the ground at any one time, but there's a lot of issues going on here and most of all you already have suspension issues with a Teg on stock suspension, you don't really want to make the car any more harsh than what it is.

    My association with front wheel drive cars is with both soft and compliant suspension in Peugeots and whatever, so, well, my experiences may vary, but if you're doing it for street rather than track, it's already easy enough to completely upset your suspension on an Integra and get crossed up, so I wouldn't even really go there. It's also the fact that as a generality Australian roads are shit...
    Last edited by Integra-GSi; 17-09-2013 at 03:06 PM.

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    Nam ran his car maxxed out on the coils with standard camber arms (guards pulled as far as they would go from memory).

    I run 16x8 +25 with a Advan a050 225/45R16 on my eg with around -2.5 degree of camber and i have no issues.
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  3. #27
    Yeah... as you say, you're getting to the point where you need to start doing some adjustments in order to make things fit.

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Kermit K20A
    It seems as tho OP is wanting to simply bolt on and off he goes with these wheels, thus why I said that between +20 & +25 is the magic offset, along with not so wide wheels. I am only giving examples of where people have done it right without modifying too much and have stayed in the range people think wont work
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  5. #29
    i've rolled the front two guards and cut the rear two to make these wheels fit, i have a set of coilovers and camber kit on the way, a few other issues that came up is that when i put on the wheels to see if they fit, i notice the hubs dont line up, would i need to run hub relocators or fillers to make it fit properly?

    another thing is, when the coilovers and camberkit comes in, would i have to install them then drive on stock wheels for about a week to let the coilovers settle and then put on the new wheels, adjust height/damper and dial negative camber in? or can i install the coilovers and just adjust the height straight away?

    thanks in advance, Tom

  6. #30
    and in regards to the tyres, i've put 195/45 on them, will not be illegally street racing or doing burnouts at Krispykreme or anything, just a sensible/notsosensible daily. all risk involved will be taking into consideration, thanks for your concern, once it is back on the road and sitting how i want it to, will post a picture to clear up all assumptions. ty

  7. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by tom_son View Post
    i've rolled the front two guards and cut the rear two to make these wheels fit, i have a set of coilovers and camber kit on the way, a few other issues that came up is that when i put on the wheels to see if they fit, i notice the hubs dont line up, would i need to run hub relocators or fillers to make it fit properly?

    another thing is, when the coilovers and camberkit comes in, would i have to install them then drive on stock wheels for about a week to let the coilovers settle and then put on the new wheels, adjust height/damper and dial negative camber in? or can i install the coilovers and just adjust the height straight away?

    thanks in advance, Tom
    You should be running a hub ring so as your wheels remain hub centric as opposed to stud centric, that's why you've got a hole there in the first place... I.E. it's not just there for aesthetics, if there's a gap there, say 67 to 72mm for instance you need a hub ring that's going to fill it with a 67mm inside diametre 72mm outside diametre ring.

    Although It's really not all that likely but if all your balancing the wheels of your car on is the studs then you can in the long run end up sheering a stud off your hub... Not a good thing, that shouldn't happen, but it's a possibility. Hub centric rings don't cost anything either so it's worth the investment for safety.

    On the issue of adjusting your coil overs, in all of my setups I've just dialled in the height and the camber adjustment and driven away, I don't see any problem really in doing it this way at all, although others are welcome ti disagree with me.
    Last edited by Integra-GSi; 05-10-2013 at 01:27 PM.

  8. #32
    +1 for massive stretch and camber only really being suited to zoku cars.

  9. #33
    175 50s and esm makes nice 15x9s +10s i would do 15x8s front and x9 rears with 4" lip


    these are 15x8.5 +17 stock camber with 17550s.. x9+10 u might have to get camber kit n roll fenders

    Last edited by naturaltone; 24-10-2013 at 11:16 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.