One step forgotten in the quick DIY instructions is to fit the alignment pins (4mm) into the cams so they don't move.
There are 2 holes in each cam spray bar above each camshaft...
One hole in each bar lines up with a pin hole in OEM camshaft at correct TDC
(RH hole - intake / LH hole exhaust)
Not critical, but it's a big help for those a little green or unsure when working on engines
Hope that helps
Someone pm'ed me on how to tension the belt correctly.
I don't know if I do it the correct way or not but my way works for me.
After the belt is on correctly and you've triple checked camshaft amd crankshaft position.
Turn the engine a few turns so that the belt settles.
Do up the crank bolt etc.
Have the tensioner done up tight enough so that it's not too loose but loose enough so that when you turn the crank anti-clockwise, you can see the spring move when the piston compresses.
When there is no compression, you can actually see the spring doing its job pulling on the tensioner.
I actually give an extra pull on the tensioner with my hands to help it along before I do up the tensioner bolt.
i found that when at TDC (with tension off the belt) and rotating the engine 3 teeth past TDC there isnt quite enough tension for my liking so i help the tesioner up there with my hand aswell
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