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  1. #61
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    canberra
    Car:
    DC2
    call the wreckers
    Mate my bbk cost more than your Honda.
    -Amant02

  2. #62
    Might call up my local Dayco specialist

  3. #63
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Car:
    DECF28R & JB627
    Quote Originally Posted by rhys.l View Post
    Yeah they are champions. Getting a few random idle problems, so the fun isn't over yet.
    Mine idles funny now after I did all the service stuff.

    Higher idle when a/c is turned on is a little slow.

    I think need to clean iacv and adjust fitv.

    After resetting ecu, its pretty good



    Probably all due to flush and change of coolant.

    Shit clogged in there
    Last edited by cbauto; 02-11-2013 at 08:57 PM.

  4. #64
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    canberra
    Car:
    DC2
    Quote Originally Posted by rhys.l View Post
    Might call up my local Dayco specialist
    you cheeky kun7 lol.
    +1 for cleaninng the iacv and the fitv then resetting the ecu
    Mate my bbk cost more than your Honda.
    -Amant02

  5. #65
    Thanks fellas. I cleaned the IACV. B18c7 doesn't have a FITV. ECU has been reset, coolant bleed about a million times. Still having dramas.

    My problem - If you are driving around with the car cold and put the clutch in (like stopping at the lights) the revs drop past the proper idle point and the car almost cuts out. When warm, this prob is gone. Instead, when you jab the throttle quickly from idle (like for a quick take off), the revs initially drop (to like 500rpm or less) before going up as they should. The actual idle rpms are fine (~830 rpm warm).

  6. #66
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Have you tried adjusting base ide?
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  7. #67
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Car:
    DECF28R & JB627
    Sounds normal, how many k's on the car?
    Adjust throttle cable, clean throttle body, clean everything, that's all you can do.

    Clean injectors. Fuel filter. Etc.

    After resetting ecu, should normalize after time.



    With revs dropping when you stab the throttle quickly, you will always get idle drop before rpm rise.

    Reason for this is delay from mechanical throttle cable.
    If drive by wire, no delay, is better.

    Cable puts more air in, takes a fraction of time for sensors and ecu to adjust fuel.
    Quote Originally Posted by rhys.l View Post
    Thanks fellas. I cleaned the IACV. B18c7 doesn't have a FITV. ECU has been reset, coolant bleed about a million times. Still having dramas.

    My problem - If you are driving around with the car cold and put the clutch in (like stopping at the lights) the revs drop past the proper idle point and the car almost cuts out. When warm, this prob is gone. Instead, when you jab the throttle quickly from idle (like for a quick take off), the revs initially drop (to like 500rpm or less) before going up as they should. The actual idle rpms are fine (~830 rpm warm).

  8. #68
    No haven't mucked with that screw. I haven't see any reason to when it's idling where it should (800-850rpm)

    Quote Originally Posted by cbauto View Post
    Sounds normal, how many k's on the car?
    Adjust throttle cable, clean throttle body, clean everything, that's all you can do.

    Clean injectors. Fuel filter. Etc.

    After resetting ecu, should normalize after time.



    With revs dropping when you stab the throttle quickly, you will always get idle drop before rpm rise.

    Reason for this is delay from mechanical throttle cable.
    If drive by wire, no delay, is better.

    Cable puts more air in, takes a fraction of time for sensors and ecu to adjust fuel.
    I can live with the rev drop after the throttle stab, but there's no way the cold idle cut out is normal. Hopefully you're right and things sort themselves out over time. Car has 114k, I've cleaned the throttle body, and I suppose I try some of that other stuff. It's all been done over the last 18 months though. Is there any point looking at the TPS? It's way too big a coincidence this has all happened after the timing belt change..
    Last edited by rhys.l; 03-11-2013 at 12:18 PM.

  9. #69
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Car:
    DECF28R & JB627
    Sorry it sounds like jibber jabber. Typing on the phone.

  10. #70
    Adam and I did the following this afternoon. Problem is still there

    - IACV cleaned
    - Throttle body cleaned
    - New spark plugs
    - TPS tested (voltages are normal)
    - Coolant bleed multiple times
    - ECU reset multiple times
    - 02 sensor unplugged, no difference
    - Accessory belts loosened
    - Vacuum leaks checked (nothing)
    - IACV unplugged (car doesn't idle, throws code)

    All I think of that's left is to loosen the timing belt somewhat. Does anyone think having the timing belt too tight could be the cause? Clutching at strings I know.
    Only other option is to get a new IACV, and see if that helps.

  11. #71
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    www.alibaba.com
    Car:
    porsche boxster
    drive by wire has no lag....?


    you learn something new everyday on OH...

  12. #72
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Car:
    DECF28R & JB627
    Quote Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T View Post
    drive by wire has no lag....?


    you learn something new everyday on OH...
    In theory.

    Do you have Anything positive to input?.

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