i'm new be nice

[shmivic]

This thread got way off topic fast...

I may be able to clarify some things here in a bang for buck sense.

To the O.P.

start by forgetting a full intake.. Just buy a drop in K&N panel filter and remove your intake resonator.
Changing the material of the intake tube yields no gains other than cosmetic. Cosmetic = Cop attn.

Exhaust wise, find an 06 cat. Bolt up a PLM header and leave the rest. PLM have the most durability second only to Toda and there results are respectable.

Suspension, forget lowered springs. They a waste of money. Buy an entry level coilover such as Tanabe Sustec Pro or BuddyClub.
BC coils are a lot harder than Tanabe, so choose based on how the roads you drive on are.

Rear camber.. Try and delete as much of it as possible. Avoid Skunk2 (Junk2). Get Hardrace, Good pricing.
RSB. I had, then returned to oem. Front Bracing is also not really an improvement, if anything a rear boot brace only.

Tires, buy good ones.

Those basic bolt on 1hr jobs will make your car a heap more entertaining to drive. If later on more power wanted, then drop in either an 06 CL9 intake cam or TSX (if you can find) intake cam. No EMS upgrade req for that.

If EMS upgrade happens Its a good idea to fit a CU2 exhaust cam gear to your stock exhaust cam and a K20A vtc intake cam gear. Also try and use the K20A upper timing chain guide. It has a much larger surface are over the chain up there than the K24 Euro or TSX item. Leave the chain tensioner alone too.

Lightweight pulleys are ok.. Just not under drive ones.

Flywheel makes a huge difference, leave the shift bushings alone. Unless there worn the only replace with oem. Not solid because you will break the cables very quickly.

Intake manifold also leave alone, the costs to change and the highly debatable results aren't worth it at all. Just do the usual T.B coolant bypass trick and maybe bolt on the 06 throttle body + thermal gasket. P2R spacers also do nothing.

All in all very easy and cheap things to do.

Been thru it more than anyone knows lol.

[TheSaint]

^^^ good advice - seen his work in person - he knows what hes doing =p

i still prefer the comptec icebox over the stock intake + k+n filter
(it only changes the top lid, the filter and the air scoop where the resonator used to be)
good value for money imo

any more info on PLM verses weaponR headers shmivic?

i bought shmivics Tanabe Sustec Pro coilovers and they are almost a perfect balance between comfort and sport

i got hardrace rear lower arms to adjust toe + camber - mutch better quality than the skunk2 ones i have used in the past

as for front bracing - i got the ultra racing front-middle-lower H brace and i did notice a difference in turn in response
(not a huge difference but worth the $100 odd that i paid for it)

what was the reason for returning to stock RSB? other than snapping endlinks?
from what i am told its a good mod for the euro

iv been wanting to do the TSX intake cam but everyone says you need EMS? any more info on that shmivic?

i got the RalcoRZ light wieght pulleys - not underdrive
very slight difference in low-mid revs but nothing to get excited about - still worth the $160odd

from looking at (and trying mates) different short shift + bush kits imo its pretty much useless - euro has a nice throw from factory

i really need to do my clutch + flywheel asap - any suggestions?

i was going to get a J35 throttle body from USA - is the 06 throttle body the same?

thanks for the info shmivic - need to catch up for beers again soon =p

[shmivic]

i still prefer the comptec icebox over the stock intake + k+n filter
(it only changes the top lid, the filter and the air scoop where the resonator used to be)
good value for money imo

any more info on PLM verses weaponR headers shmivic?

what was the reason for returning to stock RSB? other than snapping endlinks?
from what i am told its a good mod for the euro

iv been wanting to do the TSX intake cam but everyone says you need EMS? any more info on that shmivic?

i really need to do my clutch + flywheel asap - any suggestions?

i was going to get a J35 throttle body from USA - is the 06 throttle body the same?

thanks for the info shmivic - need to catch up for beers again soon =p

Ct icebox is only a smoothed version of the oem item. Same volume. In terms of atomisation, I prefer "dirty or turbulent" airflow. Shown in the past that turbulent air mixes with fuel mist a great deal evenly in the combustion chamber.

PLM vs WPR.. Weapon is thinner wall thickness. Prime to crack at the collector. Dyno wise they read within 2hp of each other.

Clutch go for carbonetics full plate (no puck). Exedy flywheel is very good for the $
$ to replace clutch and fly is large. Almost engine out job to do. Front subframe req half removal and near impossible without hoist.

J37 throttle body is better and bigger than J35. Same DBW plug as CL9. Adapters are readily available.

Can run TSX intake cam with stock vtc. EMS upgrade with that only req if you wish to tune vtc. Straight bolt in (no EMS) shows a nice gain, around 10-15whp iirc

[shmivic]

And rsb I found to make the car get all 3 wheel motion on the track. I like to keep all 4 wheels on the ground while cornering.

[TheSaint]

thanks for the advice man - this is really helping the decision making process - i know what you mean about the atomisation of air and fuel - hence no PnP on intake ports of a head etc
car already came with comptech box and im happy with it - tried the oem one again, and a SRI and a CAI - only one i really liked was comptech
(unless a gruppe-M comes up for a price that wont require me to sell one of my kidneys)

i was very torn with the whole header decision - originally i was going to get the comptech kit - but from reviews and advice on here they dont make great gains for the price
PLM is looking better each time - do you know anyone that has used them on a honda?
(again - unless a toda comes up at a good price - i wish i had the right money at the time of when you sold yours - that was a good price)

clutch is on its last legs in this car so its going to have to be done sooner or later - im not hunting big power with the euro and dont want the clutch to be too heavy
i was just going to get the exedy O.E. clutch and exedy lightened flywheel - any reason this is a bad idea?

would the throttle body upgrade really be needed? the only major power mods i plan to do in the foreseeable future is the TSX intake cam
i have seen them cheap so im all for it - but is the oem unit that much of a restriction on an n/a setup?

eventually i will get TSX ecu, flashpro and toda VTC - but for now ill be sticking with the stock setup and TSX intake cam
i was thinking of getting a VAFC or Neo just to use as a monitor and bringing vtec down a 1krpm or so for weekend drives
(i know they reset everytime on euro - i would only put in settings on a weekend drive etc)
i dont want to loose VSA or cruise control tho - the car is a daily not a track warrior (thats what my EG is for heh)

as for RSB - i was thinking of getting the ultra racing 18mm kit - not too agressive but a touch more punch than oem
i have found a couple of times now in wide sweep corners that the back end could use a bit more strength

once again - thanks for the advice - say the word and ill bring beers down to the workshop =p

[Fredoops]

eventually i will get TSX ecu, flashpro and toda VTC - but for now ill be sticking with the stock setup and TSX intake cam
i was thinking of getting a VAFC or Neo just to use as a monitor and bringing vtec down a 1krpm or so for weekend drives
(i know they reset everytime on euro - i would only put in settings on a weekend drive etc)
i dont want to loose VSA or cruise control tho - the car is a daily not a track warrior (thats what my EG is for heh)

Well I have a CamCon H unit sitting in the garage doing nothing if you want.

[TheSaint]

pm on its way ...

[EuroCliffy]

cheers for all your help shmivic. so an update on my euro got 18% tints done last week which looks tight with the chrome outline around the windows and i also got a grom usb2 units which is amazing. i realised the other day i'm missing the rear driver side euro floor mate and also the user manual which goes with the service manual, does anyone know where i could find these? and can anyone tell me if you can hook an amp/sub to the standard stereo? and how to remove the rear speaker grills to change the 6x9s as in the past i haven't had such nice cars and just hacked them out or they had already been changed.

[shmivic]

Amps/subs can be easily hooked up to oem radio.

What you need;
Amp + install kit
Sub + box
Multimeter
Hi>Lo RF converter


Took hook up amp / sub into euro with oem radio first buy what's called a hi/Lo rf converter, usually around $15 online or from Jaycar.
What that does is takes two channels of high rf (normal speaker) and convert to low rf (RCA) which you use to aus the amp.

Wire the converter off the rear parcel shelf speakers, then re-power them with the amp. (4 channel amp) x2 channels to re power parcel shelf and two bridged at 4ohm for the sub.

Wiring the amp is easy, main power off the battery, remote wired off the "switched" +12v line at the ignition barrel and then the earth for the amp.

The whole lot should only take you about an hour to install. At least that's how long mine took.

Never removed the parcel shelf though.

[TheSaint]

im also missing the service log and book - does anyone know where i can get a replacement

is there haynes workshop manual available? i have had a search for euro and tsx but didnt really find anything

[Fredoops]

Log book is really only avail from the dealer. Prepare to be farked in the arse for it tho.

There are acura tsx workshop manuals around online just do a search for it.

[axispower]

Log book is really only avail from the dealer. Prepare to be farked in the arse for it tho.

There are acura tsx workshop manuals around online just do a search for it.

OFF TOPIC:

So Fred how come you haven't gone the WHOLE performance path yet: - cams, intake manifold, throttle body thermal gasket, fuel rail, (also, will you ever get a catback? Or just 2.5inch mid pipe with resonator, keeping OEM muffler and Y section? 45-50 VTC (not sure), + flashpro tune? I know you're still working on the tune business, which probably answers the question. But will you go all out on the 5AT anytime soon and get some nice numbers and power?