prospective EG K24 brake setup advice

[russell.94]

Weren't you doing a j swap two days ago lol

ha yea I was until I talked to stndrd from sydney and was educated as to why the j wasn't for my intended purposes

[russell.94]

OP

you need to stop the weight of the car , not the power.

In saying that , dc2r 282mm fronts with standard rear discs will be fine, and should be legally passed too.

thats what i'm now opting for, I'll most likely be purchasing a dc2 front and rear set which I'll then upgrade the fronts to prelude calipers and 282's from a mate...

[russell.94]

great info guys! this is exactly what I wanted to get back from the initial question.

[MassiEk4]

Great info there, Massi. Might look into that one myself. Still fits under 15"rim, yeh? Is there a good range of pads available for the CRV calipers?

Yea, fits under 15" wheels but watch out for the offset though. I have 16x7 44+ and need a 5 mm spacer up front.
CRV calipers = DC2R = prelude si/vtir = accords etc.... SO you got heaps of choices for pads, I am using Intima pads (yet to use them, my car is still not finished)


Eg civics are somewhat light weight cars, so you can get away with a poor man's big brake seup.
The final performance then comes from proper balance.

OP, If you have your heat set on some big brakes you can always get some Acura TL calipers and use 300mm rotors.

[Tai]

thats what i'm now opting for, I'll most likely be purchasing a dc2 front and rear set which I'll then upgrade the fronts to prelude calipers and 282's from a mate...

You might as well go dc2r 5 lug full swap as it will have better choice of wheels as well.

And when you think about it 5 fingers grips things better than 4 fingers.

[stndrd]

I am based in Melbourne mate :P

For the price of the Endless 6 pot calipers by themselves, I can do a mini 6 pot ATS Brake System kit including rotors, pads & lines for roughly the same price. Also all ATS calipers allow for you to use Project Mu pads if you do not like the ATS pads.

I am using VTi-R front on my EG at the moment with Project Mu RC-09 pads & RDA rotors. It holds up well but I cannot jump on the brakes as late as I would like to. Upgrading to a Type R size all round will make a difference, but if you are serious on the track times, a BBK of some form will be required to help bring down the lap times

[russell.94]

I am based in Melbourne mate :P

For the price of the Endless 6 pot calipers by themselves, I can do a mini 6 pot ATS Brake System kit including rotors, pads & lines for roughly the same price. Also all ATS calipers allow for you to use Project Mu pads if you do not like the ATS pads.

I am using VTi-R front on my EG at the moment with Project Mu RC-09 pads & RDA rotors. It holds up well but I cannot jump on the brakes as late as I would like to. Upgrading to a Type R size all round will make a difference, but if you are serious on the track times, a BBK of some form will be required to help bring down the lap times

****, sorry dude *melbourne*
ok well I'll source myself some hubs and knuckles and go from there. Until work starts paying me correctly however, I wont be able to afford anything

[lil_foy]

282 setup with good rotors and endless pads will be more then enough, I run dba4000 282 rotors with endless mx72 pads and I havent had it fade once yet (58 second QR Sprint, 60 second Lakeside). I just use standard EG rear rotor setup with slotted rotors. Ive even had the brakes smoking coming back into the pits but they were still working fine. Werent you looking for $50 camber arms like 2 days ago though? Suspension is hardy "done" if thats the case. Remember if you're doing 200+kph (i get to 215~kph at lakeside with a b18cr EG) the last thing you want is a cheap part to fail.

My best advise for you right now as you seem keen to learn but a bit ambitious with what you want to do with the car is seat time, I can put money on you'd struggle to drive a K swap honda at full pace. Get some decent coilovers, camber arms, brakes (as advised in this thread) and most importantly good tyres and get out there and drive drive drive. Plenty of guys out there without much power that are doing pretty well!

[mocchi]

lol $50 camber arms

[russell.94]

282 setup with good rotors and endless pads will be more then enough, I run dba4000 282 rotors with endless mx72 pads and I havent had it fade once yet (58 second QR Sprint, 60 second Lakeside). I just use standard EG rear rotor setup with slotted rotors. Ive even had the brakes smoking coming back into the pits but they were still working fine. Werent you looking for $50 camber arms like 2 days ago though? Suspension is hardy "done" if thats the case. Remember if you're doing 200+kph (i get to 215~kph at lakeside with a b18cr EG) the last thing you want is a cheap part to fail.

My best advise for you right now as you seem keen to learn but a bit ambitious with what you want to do with the car is seat time, I can put money on you'd struggle to drive a K swap honda at full pace. Get some decent coilovers, camber arms, brakes (as advised in this thread) and most importantly good tyres and get out there and drive drive drive. Plenty of guys out there without much power that are doing pretty well!

cheers for the advice dude but youve got me totally wrong hey - I've got suspension actually DONE all round with new bushings I just needed that camber kit so i could look a bit more legal for this weekends cruise - I rolled my fenders instead. My suspension consists of hardrace bushings ALL ROUND w/ DGR 10k/6k coilovers, itr front 24mm sway with poly end links, whiteline rear 24mm sway with spherical end links. My car isnt stock. I haven't thrown it on a track but I've put through its paces on the back streets more than enough to get an idea of what i want and need. Oh and its on konig wideopens with 15x8+20 with achilles atr's all round. Its ready for a K swap more than you may think. I've got friends whove experienced my car to back this up - some with K swaps of their own that handle worse than mine.