prospective EG K24 brake setup advice

**russell.94** · 08-12-2013 08:23 AM

Hey dudes, so I'm seriously planning on a k24 swap over the next 12 months and am at the stage in my build where the suspension is almost done fully and I need to start thinking about brakes as mine currents are on their way out. I'm looking at seriously tracking this car and getting into the time attack comps here in Brisbane - somehow, haven't really looked into it all yet.

So, I'm upgrading my brakes and want to know what you guys would recommend for a prospective 200wkw eg hatch. I'm looking into a set of Endless 6 pots which should fit under my 15" Konigs from a friend at the moment. He is asking $1600 for the calipers. I'm pretty sold on the DBA 4000 series rotors, so rotors aside, is this front caliper setup good for the money?

Also, with a 6 pot up front would my braking ratio be totally skewed if I stayed with an eg6 disc setup or prelude caliper setup? Will it even matter with 6 pots up front? Is this chronic overkill for my power goals?

All comments welcome but know this is a serious question and I'm not intending to buy anything right now, I still have a bit to do on the sussy before I get to brakes...

**curtis265** · 08-12-2013 10:13 AM

I think they are overkill - try the track with your current setup and see if it fades too much - step it up slowly rather than in big leaps IMO

**russell.94** · 08-12-2013 10:23 AM

my current setup hardly stops my car as is - I've taken it for spirited laps up around mt tamborine and other windy roads in qld and they fade realllll quick. Would you think an eg6 setup with the right pads provide enough stopping power? I know my current eg4 brakes are totally inadequate for track yet I feel with the power I want to push even the eg6 setup may fail - following simple logic and from the research I've done... I'm looking for some hard facts here, more than just opinion, but ofcourse, opinion welcome.

**curtis265** · 08-12-2013 11:55 AM

What pads are you using?

the EG is a light car and doesn't necessarily need giant rotors to store massive amounts of heat

**russell.94** · 08-12-2013 12:41 PM

stock ones - its the only got 240mm front rotors and drums in the rear... I'm going to upgrade anywas

**gambate** · 08-12-2013 03:55 PM

dc2r/ek9 5 stud coversion with good quality rotor is the best bang for the money, unless you are using super sticky tires and chasing every last tenths, you might need more than that.

**Hondarally** · 08-12-2013 04:03 PM

I've never had big brakes on any of my competition cars, and with decent pads, have not yet once even looked like running out of brakes. Admittedly, it's always been gravel rally, so not as demanding as a 600HP time attack car.

I took the EG6 (mildly worked B16a) to Lakeside and there's only really one hard braking area - at the end of the main straight. I never looked like running out of brakes there, no matter how late or hard I braked.

You might find that stock VTiR brakes with decent pads (something like QFM are very good value for money) and good fluid will be adequate for your car on the track - they'll certainly be fine for road driving. Note all of the components have to be in good condition. Old contaminated fluid with cheap pads and half seized calipers will always end in tears, no matter how big the brakes are.

My K24 EK4 currently has the stock EK4 brake setup, but I haven't had a chance to drive it on the track yet. This is going to be a dedicated track car, so I'm sure I'll find the limits of the brakes pretty quickly. I'm expecting to have to upgrade brakes if I start chasing more power but I might get away with them with a stock K24. I have a set of S2k calipers and rotors, but these won't fit under 15"rims (which I believe I'm limited to in IPRA) so those probably won't be an option in the long run.

Can't say I have a lot of experience with Honda brakes, so unfortunately I can't offer a tried and tested solution. You obviously need to do something with the brakes, but beware of throwing big $$ at them for the sake of bling.

Of and whatever you do, don't waste your money on slotted rotors. They're the biggest scam this side of energy polarisers.

**Jasemas** · 08-12-2013 09:41 PM

Weren't you doing a j swap two days ago lol

**bennjamin** · 09-12-2013 07:16 AM

OP

you need to stop the weight of the car , not the power.

In saying that , dc2r 282mm fronts with standard rear discs will be fine, and should be legally passed too.

**MassiEk4** · 09-12-2013 08:50 AM

a little cheaper than converting to Type R 5 stud with similar performance, and keep your 4x100 pattern.

Front - Mini cooper rotors (280 mm) + Crv Calipers.
Rear - EU civic rotors (260 mm) + DC5/EP3 calipers.

you can run a adjustable brake bias to properly setup/tune the brakes.

**Hondarally** · 09-12-2013 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by MassiEk4

a little cheaper than converting to Type R 5 stud with similar performance, and keep your 4x100 pattern.

Front - Mini cooper rotors (280 mm) + Crv Calipers.
Rear - EU civic rotors (260 mm) + DC5/EP3 calipers.

you can run a adjustable brake bias to properly setup/tune the brakes.

Great info there, Massi. Might look into that one myself. Still fits under 15"rim, yeh? Is there a good range of pads available for the CRV calipers?

**rc_** · 09-12-2013 01:40 PM

Originally Posted by Hondarally

Great info there, Massi. Might look into that one myself. Still fits under 15"rim, yeh? Is there a good range of pads available for the CRV calipers?

This setup works pretty well for me, got the front calipers from a CRV for $50 from a wrecker in pretty good condition. Clearance to stock dc2 fat fives and 15inch cp-f's is more than enough.

Also don't dismiss how much difference you can get with just new pads and fluid. When I put the CRV calipers on they had some newish looking bendix pads in them, I tried them out on the street and I was a bit disappointed at the pedal feel and initial bite.

Changed to yellow stuff pads, noticed a dramatic change in feel straight away after bed in on the street and very good on the track. Have done a couple of track days on them at Sandown and haven't had any sign of fade. I just used the Nulon super dot 4 fluid which has held up well and is super cheap.

I don't think you need to spend ridiculous amounts on BBK when you have other much cheaper viable options to try first. If it doesn't work out then you are only out maybe a few hundred for the whole setup and can probably on sell the kit pretty easy.

Edit: and yes the pad range for the crv caliper is fine, they are the same pads as for the dc2 type R so many performance oriented pads out there.