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Where did you get the quote for the chassis repair? I'm guessing that's $5 for the weld and $995 for the engineering! Unfortunately so expensive in SA
DA9 LS w/JDM SiR B18C turbo
Looking for older Honda project car pre-1985
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 Originally Posted by mooshie
Where did you get the quote for the chassis repair? I'm guessing that's $5 for the weld and $995 for the engineering! Unfortunately so expensive in SA
My dad knew someone in chassis repair so I sent some photos to him and he gave me that price. : o I got his direct number though, I might ask my dad what company he was from tomorrow.
Unfortunately yes, very expensive. But I'm willing to put the money into the car if he can get me passed Regency 
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What inspection to you have to go through? I went for ID on the 4door and cos the car was missing a compliance plate they sent me for a roadworthy (not tier 3) passed the roadworthy with a bent rear subframe from the hit in the side. It's a pretty obvious bend but no cracks and the alignment can still be done to within specs.
For the ID, they don't get under the car or anything, simply check numbers and if the car is obviously defectable they'll refer you for a tier 3 same as the police would on the side of the road.
If you have a compliance plate, the car has been previously registered in Australia and it looks stock then I don't see why you need to spend the cash fixing up that crack.
DA9 LS w/JDM SiR B18C turbo
Looking for older Honda project car pre-1985
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Originally Posted by mooshie
What inspection to you have to go through? I went for ID on the 4door and cos the car was missing a compliance plate they sent me for a roadworthy (not tier 3) passed the roadworthy with a bent rear subframe from the hit in the side. It's a pretty obvious bend but no cracks and the alignment can still be done to within specs.
For the ID, they don't get under the car or anything, simply check numbers and if the car is obviously defectable they'll refer you for a tier 3 same as the police would on the side of the road.
If you have a compliance plate, the car has been previously registered in Australia and it looks stock then I don't see why you need to spend the cash fixing up that crack.
It has been previously registered, looks stock and has a QLD compliance plate. I would prefer to fix it just in case they do get under to have a look. That, and it is an opportunity for rust to get in and eat away the cars floor. I'll pay the money, get it fixed and do it right. I don't wanna waste my time organising insurance, a day pass and driving all the way down only to lose the money for the inspection, insurance and rego because of an obvious crack.
Also, if I take it down and do pass with the crack. I think I'd get lazy and never pay the $1,000 to get it fixed ahahahh
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ID check is free though... It won't cost you anything and then if you pass you just go around and register it at the ServiceSA place around the corner.. Rego is only $40 for a day too. Virtually nothing to lose and $1000 to gain.
Fair call on the doing it right bit but you're paying for the engineering certificate not the fix. I had a similar crack welded up once and it cost $100.
Not trying to convince you, just saying there is other options. I'd get it welded but not bother with the cert.
DA9 LS w/JDM SiR B18C turbo
Looking for older Honda project car pre-1985
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Originally Posted by mooshie
ID check is free though... It won't cost you anything and then if you pass you just go around and register it at the ServiceSA place around the corner.. Rego is only $40 for a day too. Virtually nothing to lose and $1000 to gain.
Fair call on the doing it right bit but you're paying for the engineering certificate not the fix. I had a similar crack welded up once and it cost $100.
Not trying to convince you, just saying there is other options. I'd get it welded but not bother with the cert.
This ^
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I was having another look at that "crack" in the chassis rail, it's not actually a crack, it's just where the sections of the hat section (technical name for this sort of channel 'cause it's a square U shape with flanges to attach to a flat section to form a box section) have separated at an overlap. What I would do is lift the carpet out and drill some 12-13mm holes above where it's been pushed up (40mm apart). You'll probably see the line of spot welds along the "brim" of the hat as a guide, and then just work your way along with a piece of 12mm steel rod and a hammer till you've driven the channel back down into place. A tack weld if necessary is all that will be needed. This front and rear channels (hat section) aren't probably even spot welded together, just along the "brim". They're only intended to stiffen the floor pan to prevent it "plonking" up and down with movement of the car. Take it from me, I used to work in car assembly.
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Originally Posted by mooshie
ID check is free though... It won't cost you anything and then if you pass you just go around and register it at the ServiceSA place around the corner.. Rego is only $40 for a day too. Virtually nothing to lose and $1000 to gain.
Fair call on the doing it right bit but you're paying for the engineering certificate not the fix. I had a similar crack welded up once and it cost $100.
Not trying to convince you, just saying there is other options. I'd get it welded but not bother with the cert.
Yeah I understand. Thanks for your advice, Mark. I still plan on doing it the correct way. Although it's bent, so it can't be welded back. The guy said he might even have to replace the chassis rail.
I called Regency and they quoted me $60. They said for a general inspection. And that was after I told him that the car was from QLD, had compliance plates, had previous rego papers, etc.
Doesn't matter. I'll do it correctly. I know myself and I just won't do it otherwise. :P
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Originally Posted by hondapop
I was having another look at that "crack" in the chassis rail, it's not actually a crack, it's just where the sections of the hat section (technical name for this sort of channel 'cause it's a square U shape with flanges to attach to a flat section to form a box section) have separated at an overlap. What I would do is lift the carpet out and drill some 12-13mm holes above where it's been pushed up (40mm apart). You'll probably see the line of spot welds along the "brim" of the hat as a guide, and then just work your way along with a piece of 12mm steel rod and a hammer till you've driven the channel back down into place. A tack weld if necessary is all that will be needed. This front and rear channels (hat section) aren't probably even spot welded together, just along the "brim". They're only intended to stiffen the floor pan to prevent it "plonking" up and down with movement of the car. Take it from me, I used to work in car assembly.
yeah I understand but what if the inspection centre has a look (for any reason at all or I get defected in the future and they see it and ask for an engineers report for the tac welding ?
I dunno. I would prefer to have it done 100% correctly, regardless of how much it's going to cost. For peace of mind at least.
I really appreciate your help but I think I will go down the 100% correct with engineers report path. Regardless of the cost. This is a car I'll have for a long time. I wanna do everything 100% quality the first time round.
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Also Mark, the person I got the quote from was John at S.A. Chassis & Suspension Services. He was recommended to my dad from a guy at his work that imports American cars and gets stuff done frequently.
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Oi i am happy with this 'pole' purchase thank you :P
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Very VERY happy with this purchase. Although no one on my facebook seems to agree or understand :P It's the whole set too (wiring, pole, button and the led works as well as the pole). I think it will look great on the Aerodeck. 
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