B gearbox/LSD questions

[lil_foy]

Does it have numbers scratched into it anywhere? I had an ATS diff and that was their identifaction code, looks exactly the same. I have a speedo drive somewhere here for it too that i dont need anymore

[mooshie]

Cheers. I might hit you up for that speedo drive once I have checked everything this weekend.

[chez00]

sounds like you got a good deal for your bits regardless. We'll sort out what you need.

[mooshie]

I certainly did, also included an Ogura clutch too, to suit the different input shaft. I'm not overly familiar with clutches but seems to have about 40% meat on it at a guess undecided if I am going to use it at this stage. I had to drive to Melbourne to get it though! Gotta go country next week and boss is in town the week after so might not have much time until the week after, but I'll head down when I can.

[mooshie]

Just a few pics of what's doing-
The YS1 casing- basically the same as a hydro box but cable actuated clutch, only came out for a year and a bit so not that easy to come across. I'm going to strip the paint off and clean it up


The ribs that need the corners knocked off them to allow the diff to clear.


Rest of the internals. Going to refresh all bearings, seals and synchros

[mooshie]

And the clutch-looks a bit burnt but would I be able to get it resurfaced? Also wondering if it would be worth using? The car only does 5000km per year at the absolute max but does get driven hard. Makes 170kwatw.

[mooshie]

And lastly, my custom VSS. The shaft in the electric one I had did fit with the LSD but as you can tell from the pic the shaft was way too short to simply swap into the mechanical one. I cut up and modified the electric to take a cable and it works when test fitted to the DA5. Only question now is if the calibration will be correct?

[Adrian @ SAS]

Remove the cotter pin in the lower section of the electric sensor & remove the bevel gear/shaft.
The do the same to the mechanical sensor & fit the shaft from the electric one.
No hot-rodding required.


(edit)
Also, you're going to have to remove your pedal box & have it reinforced with that clutch.
(Probably a new DA9 cable too)

[chez00]

Don't worry about cleaning the cases - the hot chemical spray wash will get most of it and then we bead blast the case as part of the service too - it will come up squeaky clean.

Bring the clutch down and I'll see if I can remachine it.

[mooshie]

Sweet, and I was just about to start cleaning it up! Checked the ring gear inner diameter and it's 116.8mm so definitely a B18C diff.

I pulled apart the mechanical VSS, they are setup differently to the elec one. Shaft is way longer and uses an internal pin to retain the shaft instead of a cotter pin. The elec shaft sits about 10mm too short to even get to the space where the pump gear is.

[Adrian @ SAS]

Well that sux balls... :P
(guess there are a few types of cable ones)
How secure is the cable re your 1st plan of sticking it in the top of the electric base?

[mooshie]

It's pretty solid. The retaining clip holds it just as firm as in the original.

I had a bit of copper pipe that had an inner diameter 1mm larger than the original and outer diameter 1mm smaller than the opened up electric bit. Used this glue called Q-Bond, it's holding really firm! So dodgy but this is what makes modifying fun.

Here is the YS1 casing with the ribs ground down. Test fit and closed up the case and everything rotates with no more contact