Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG4 B18CR

    Which Battery brand is good for High Performance and Sound system?

    hey guy actually my battery is complete dead i need to get new one just wonder which brand is good for High Performance car and Sound system with long lift is for EG or DC2?

    -Optima
    - Century
    -SCA
    -Repco
    -supercharge
    -BOSCH
    - Exide
    any that i miss out

    thank you
    cheer monet

  2. #2
    2 major factors with different brands:

    1) price
    2) length of warranty (which usually gives indication of quality)

    repco = century which is what i have.

    As long as you get one with minimum CCA for your car + more (380-480cc ?) depending on how high end your sound system is. Oh and make sure it fits in your battery location and the terminals ARE ON THE correct side
    Last edited by infurNOS; 09-03-2014 at 01:34 PM.
    EG

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Monetz View Post
    hey guy actually my battery is complete dead i need to get new one just wonder which brand is good for High Performance car and Sound system with long lift is for EG or DC2?

    -Optima
    - Century
    -SCA
    -Repco
    -supercharge
    -BOSCH
    - Exide
    any that i miss out

    thank you
    cheer monet
    Yo man i work at supercheap, the SCA batterys are pretty shitty, their CCA readings and rc ratings are pretty low.
    The Century's are quite good for the money. I think for your car off the top of my head is $149 in century which has 2 year warranty.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG4 B18CR
    Quote Originally Posted by infurNOS View Post
    2 major factors with different brands:

    1) price
    2) length of warranty (which usually gives indication of quality)

    repco = century which is what i have.

    As long as you get one with minimum CCA for your car + more (380-480cc ?) depending on how high end your sound system is. Oh and make sure it fits in your battery location and the terminals ARE ON THE correct side
    Thank you infurNOS my plan is set
    2.0 Farad Digital Capacitor
    Front 4"Kicker CS44 2-Way 300Watt
    Rear 6/6.5" Kicker KS60 (11KS60) 2-Way 390Watt
    Boot 6x9 Kicker 40CS6934 3-way 900Watt (Option)
    1 4ch Cadence amplifier 1400watt
    1 Kicker monoblock amplifier 1200watt
    Sub Kicker 12" 1600Watt

    Quote Originally Posted by Flippit View Post
    Yo man i work at supercheap, the SCA batterys are pretty shitty, their CCA readings and rc ratings are pretty low.
    The Century's are quite good for the money. I think for your car off the top of my head is $149 in century which has 2 year warranty.
    thank you will check this out
    Last edited by Monetz; 09-03-2014 at 02:11 PM.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Optima and odyssey were the main ones when i used to play with car audio. deep cycle battery is what your after for a high end system, capacitors are a waste of money. When you list your speaker specs list the output in RMS not peak output, peak are inflated numbers, RMS is more accurate.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG4 B18CR
    Quote Originally Posted by TbM View Post
    Optima and odyssey were the main ones when i used to play with car audio. deep cycle battery is what your after for a high end system, capacitors are a waste of money. When you list your speaker specs list the output in RMS not peak output, peak are inflated numbers, RMS is more accurate.
    Front 4"Kicker CS44 2-Way 300Watt
    Power Handling:
    Peak: 300 watts per pair / 150 watts each
    RMS: 100 watts per pair / 50 watts each

    Rear 6/6.5" Kicker KS60 (11KS60) 2-Way 390Watt
    6" KS Series Car Speakers
    Power Handling:
    Peak: 390 watts per pair / 195 watts each
    RMS: 130 watts per pair / 65 watts each

    Boot 6x9 Kicker 40CS6934 3-way 900Watt (Option)
    • Peak Power: 900W
    • RMS Power: 300W

    1 F600-4 CADENCE 4-CHANNEL AMP 1400 WATTS

    Rated Power: 4x 125 Watts RMS @ 4 ohm
    Rated Power: 4x 175 Watts RMS @ 2 ohm
    Bridged Power: 2x 350 Watts @ 4 ohm RMS Mono
    Peak Power: 1400 Watts
    Minimum THD at Rated Power: < 0.05%
    Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz
    S/N ratio: > 100dB
    Damping Factor: > 200@100Hz
    Channel Separation: > 65dB
    Dimensions: (W x H x L) 279mm x 70mm x 457mm

    1 Kicker monoblock amplifier 1200watt
    CX Series Single-Channel Class D Car Amplifier
    RMS Power Rating:
    4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.
    2 ohms: 1200 watts x 1 chan.
    Max power output: 2400 watts x 1 chan

    Sub Kicker 12" 1600Watt
    12" Dual 4 Ohm CompR (CWR) Subwoofer
    Power Handling:
    Peak: 1600 watts
    RMS: 800 watts
    Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Perth NoR
    Car:
    S2k + CBX250
    just curious i see your monoblock is a 600w@4ohms
    and the Subwoofer is a 800w.

    could this be considered too different?
    usually the amp should not be more than the woofer because you can blow it out. but if its too far less than the sub will not recieve sufficient power to produce good quality and will work handicapped.

    or 75% enough power good enough.

    in the past i always matched them although i never needed anything over 250w, so i would get a 250w for both

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by Baby Face View Post
    just curious i see your monoblock is a 600w@4ohms
    and the Subwoofer is a 800w.

    could this be considered too different?
    usually the amp should not be more than the woofer because you can blow it out. but if its too far less than the sub will not recieve sufficient power to produce good quality and will work handicapped.

    or 75% enough power good enough.

    in the past i always matched them although i never needed anything over 250w, so i would get a 250w for both
    your actually better off over powering the speaker/sub than under powering it, all of my equipment has an amps with more output than the rms rating of the speaker.

    his sub is a dual 4 ohm so it would be wired in parallel so the amp sees a 2 ohm load and outputs 1200 rms.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Perth NoR
    Car:
    S2k + CBX250
    Quote Originally Posted by TbM View Post
    your actually better off over powering the speaker/sub than under powering it, all of my equipment has an amps with more output than the rms rating of the speaker.

    his sub is a dual 4 ohm so it would be wired in parallel so the amp sees a 2 ohm load and outputs 1200 rms.
    so you overpower and just adjust down until there is no crackling?

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Geelong
    Car:
    EG4 B18CR
    lol i'm using Kicker 40CWR124 (CWR124) sub is a dual 4 ohm but u can adjust to 2ohm
    here pic

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.