E85 build tips

[Chernoby1]

Why hello thar!

Ive been planning to strip down my B16a for a while now and have always fancied the idea of going down the ethanol route. Have been saving my pennies so i think ive got enough to make it happen but not entirely sure i want to actually spend as much as i have.

Overview:
B16A Block (first gen baby)
Stock Crank
Carrilo Super-A beam Rods
Custom JE/CP pistons
all them bolts needed to make the bottom end work.
50mm ITB's
Custom headers/exhaust/ect

Now as its gonna be run solely E85 i was thinking going for the 13.8:1 mark... Which means some stupid cam profiles!

Now the questions:

1. Anyone know of any Cams with more than 305/305 duration? Or am i getting my own set made up?
2. Valvetrain issues when hitting the 10,000rpm mark regularly... id like to retain vtec if possible, anyone had any mad fails?
3. Sleeves... Im contemplating going for 84mm bore and wet sleeves just to be safe. However, are the stock sleeves okay with the sorts of pressure id be hitting?
4. Stock crank should be alright yea? Dont see the point of going forged so id go straight for billet and probably change stroke :/

Cheers brosephs!

[chez00]

1. Dunno about off the shelf. You need to be pretty careful with cam profiles, advertised duration tells you pretty much nothing. What you're really looking for is inlet valve closing event i.e. dynamic compression. The main advantage of e85 is the fact you can run a higher dynamic compression - thus cams with less duration and higher cylinder pressures. The slower flame travel of e85 also means you can run a fair bit more ignition advance without pre-ignition. Contact someone who knows their stuff like Ivan Tighe cams in Brissy and see what they have to offer. Start with the cam that's going to achieve your goals, then choose a static compression ratio to suit, based around dynamic compression calcs; not the other way around.
2. Once again, match to cam profile. If you need more lift, watch out for coil bind. Run the lightest springs possible that still maintain decent seat pressure to avoid valve bounce at high RPM. This is where Ti valves and retainers come into it (less reciprocating mass). If you run Ti valves, make sure your valve seats are swapped out to Beryllium otherwise your hardened factory seats will eat the valves straight away.
3. Sleeve it. At 10k rpm (even less) and high cylinder pressures the stock bores go oval, you get ring bypass and it turns into a turd.
4. Stock crank should be fine, but get it checked for straightness, shot peened and then checked for straightness again. Then line hone your block with your main studs already installed. If the crank needs a grind make sure it is nitrided again. Check it for straightness after every process.

[babybashjnr]

Some excellent advice

What's the budget u have in mind for this build?

[Limbo]

I haven't done it in the Civic but i did it for my Evo.

Main thing is e85 runs cooler, but your gona need to increase your fuel system, injector size & fuel pump, maybe even your fuel rail & regulator.
It takes about double the fuel of 98.

If i rem rightly the crank will fail first at that RPM. Rather than higher RPM did you think of increasing the displacement to make more power?