Please explain? Where is the proof in this statement?
I guess he means that it should be used from day dot and changed later on down the track as could cause issues is that correct jasemas?
I think that the standard for honda services is 0w-20.
I guess he means that it should be used from day dot and changed later on down the track as could cause issues is that correct jasemas?
I think that the standard for honda services is 0w-20.
Well the 20 at operating temp is a thinner oil than a 30/40
Honda went with a thinner grade to meet Euro IV emissions etc.
The proof is that a 20 oil is thinner and doesn't have the extra protection a 30/40 has over it
Look at the owners manual and there's a bucket load of different viscosity ratings
Choose one that makes you happy
Christ look at the TSX's in USA the're getting engine rebuilds from oil consumption
And a thinner 20 oil doesn't help
I talked to a senior service tech at my local Honda joint about Euro oil issue and agreed with me the thinner oil isn't ass good as a 30/40 oil - to an extant
You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz
With the millions of engines Honda and other manufacturers are building every year globally and are running a 20 weighted oil we should see all of these motors being rebuild then?
Where is the bulletin / recall from Honda or Toyota etc which says something on the line about not using 20 weighted oil?
Where are the facts and figures which says for every XXX TSX made a percentage requires an engine rebuild? 1 in 10, 1 in 100, 1 in 1000, 1 in 1M, 1 in 10M? At what Km, service interval etc? How was it operated?
Engine manufactures and oil company spend billions on R&D every year to make sure that their product is reliable for the intended purpose. I would stick with what is recommended by the OEM. Unless your engine has been rebuilt with loose tolerances or has a manufacturing fault such as oil rings assembled the wrong way. Todays manufacturing tolerances are much tighter from engines build 15 years ago. Using a thicker oil than recommended will wear out the engine quicker because its oil flow not oil thickness that is doing the protection and removing heat, varnish, carbon/metal deposits from the internal components. So a thinner oils have less drag, and therefore less friction and wear, unless you are alway towing a boat or racing at redline all the time there is no need to go for thicker oils. Heck as the oil ages in the motor and all the additives are used up the oil will thicken up dues to deposits and crap suspended in the oil anyway.
The chart in the operators manual is a guide for STARTING temperatures conditions. Once the engine is at operating temperature it does not matter what the ambient temperature is outside. The radiator and coolant and engine oil regulates the engine temperature not the outside ambient temperature. Engine temperature should be around 80-120c no matter what the ambient temperature is outside. The temperature on the dash is the temperature for the coolant not engine oil temp.
BTW how much is your run of the mill Honda is worth when you trade it in with 400k km on the clock? $1000? $500? or you need to pay them to get rid of it? Average life of a car is 10 to 15 years as it will cost more to keep it on the road then what is it worth to the recyclers. Unless you have a special car / exotic / one off or personal attachment to a car then its a different story. I would treat most cars like a mobile phone and upgrade every 3-5 years! There is also a reason why your service guy is a service guy at a local dealership and not an engine engineer or a chemist studying molecule structures.
Also these 2.4litres are so under stress its not funny. Look at motorcycle engines, my BMW1000RR 1 litre engine makes 200hp plus out of the box and I can rev it at 15000rpm all day long and this run a 0w-30 engine oil and I don't need to rebuild it at 100k or even 300k km. You can purchase a turbo kit for the BMW which will make 480hp all day long and still uses 0w-30 motor oil. Thats 480hp from a 1 litre engine!!!
Honda may use 0w20 or 5w20 as factory fill in some cases. However they do not market those low viscosity oils in hotter climates, Australia, South East Asia, Africa etc, those regions do not have Honda Lev oil (the 0w/5w20)
10w30 or 10w40 is sold and recommended as "genuine" instead in those regions.
Also certain models use a thicker oil than the 20 weight even in the US, the Acura RDX for example uses a 5w30.
You can't go to your local Repco or super cheap to pick up a bottle of 0w-20 easily, hence the next best thing is a 30viscosity.
Ambient temperature doesn't effect the engine once the engine is at operating temp. You can go from the heat of the desert to the snow top mountain without needing to stop on the side of the road to drop your oil to change it to a different viscosity.
Only 10 years ago, the best Mobil 1 oil was a 5w-50 nothing thinner that you can easily pickup from the shop.
With current low tension friction piston rings you do need to use the right viscosity oil else if the oil is too thick the rings can't wipe the walls of the cylinders bore and oil will weep into the combustion chamber.
Originally Posted by Jasemas
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