Underseat subwoofer opinions

[cbauto]

Tldr too

[TbM]

To op

in my experience i wouldnt recommend an underseat sub, id recommend you get a good set of component speakers with an amp and deaden\seal the doors, i actually dont run a sub most of the time just my focals on full range.

Lol a car isnt a "room". Did you know the Hertz range for speakers that are in your living room is different to the ones installed in your car?
dafuk you on about? both my HT and car setup have the same range
There's a reason why sub goes in the boot. Its something to do with the way sound resonates and the size factor.

I've had under seat Pioneer sub before in the jazz before i swapped it out for the cheapy sony one. Letme tell you one thing, if you after a kick then in boot sub way to go.

If your only after mooisk to your ears, i suggest good headunit + amp + really good speakers and call it a day. If you get say 5 way speakers, you may decide you don't need a sub.
deadening is the most important thing, my focals sounded like weak linglong sony speakers before i deadened them, now i have people asking if my subs in when its just the focals
The $90 dollar Amp + sub combo from sony outperformed the $400 underseat sub and its not that big and heavy. Couple of small hook and loops (double sided velcro) holds it down to boot carpet just fine.

[amant02]

Home speakers require to move more air then car speakers. Also to add extra little bit of nerd, Car audio systems are very limited in terms of currents and impedance.

I know for a fact my room speakers/sub cover more range of Hertz then my focals in the jazz.

I also agree on dynamatt, but in my view who thinks he drives a race car.... it adds weight.

[Drifter995]

Define more range?
They both cover the same hertz range. They'd both cover the same distance in a room, if built in the correct box to suit them.

Only major difference between home theatre speakers and car audio is the independence used, and how efficient they are. Home theatre speakers and subs can run off like 15w and 30w, and be loud. Car audio? About 10x that.
I can't remember why that is, but install wise, they both require similar box specs. The theatre ones usually have smaller boxes than car speakers, as doors are fairly big.

As for car audio systems, they aren't limit by currents and independence much at all. Current can range from 5-1000a depending on what you're doing, and how serious you're being. Independence is literally whatever you want it to be (albiet, subs and speakers are usually limited to 4ohm and 2ohm, some 8ohm, some 6ohm, some 1ohm, add dual coils, etc) you can wire them so an amp sees 16ohm if you wanted.

[TbM]

Home speakers require to move more air then car speakers. Also to add extra little bit of nerd, Car audio systems are very limited in terms of currents and impedance.

I know for a fact my room speakers/sub cover more range of Hertz then my focals in the jazz.

I also agree on dynamatt, but in my view who thinks he drives a race car.... it adds weight.

Your first statement depends on the size of the room, the smaller the space the less the sound dissipates. your limited in the amount of power you have until you upgrade your alt.

my klipsch floor-standing ht speakers do 35hz to 23khz a set of Moral Elate TI 903/902 do 25hz to 25khz which is a larger range. its more to do with the type of speaker not weather its designed for home or automotive use, a speaker is a speaker.

using minimal dynamat in the doors would add a comparable amount of weight to an underseat sub.

[amant02]

Okay lesson learned on hertz explanation.

I also agree on you can manipulate electricity quiet easily, but for how long? Running 16ohms safely = Big $$$. Running 16ohms safely for long time = Even bigger $$$.

Also the idea of voiding warranty.

[TbM]

Okay lesson learned on hertz explanation.

I also agree on you can manipulate electricity quiet easily, but for how long? Running 16ohms safely = Big $$$. Running 16ohms safely for long time = Even bigger $$$.

Also the idea of voiding warranty.

you can run 16 ohm as long as you like, car amps are usually rated between 1 and 4 ohm, the lower the ohm the more "stress" on the amp ie running 2 ohm on an amp rated for 4 is usually bad but running it higher than rated is fine it just drops the power output as your adding resistance.

[amant02]

So therefore... what your telling me is... I can hook up my ht amp to my cars speaker setup and power it easier to its limits??

[amant02]

I can't wait till i get home now.

[TbM]

So therefore... what your telling me is... I can hook up my ht amp to my cars speaker setup and power it easier to its limits??

depends on what your ht amp is rated too, for example my ht amp is rated to 6 ohm if i recall correctly and my car speakers are 4 ohm, so hooking that up would be a bad idea, the speaker ohm has to be equal to or greater than the amps minimum ohm rating.

powering it too its limits depends on the rms output of the amp at the ohm rating of the speaker, i dont know your setup so i cant comment.

[Drifter995]

What tbm said, if it's not rated to handle 4ohms, then I wouldn't.
You could chuck a car audio amp in to run your theatre speakers no worries, but maybe not the other way around. Just depends on what ohms the theatre one is rated too. It won't be loud though, compared to a car amp. As said, car speakers aren't anywhere near as efficient as theatre speakers. The whole 15w or so your amp is putting out (assuming it can handle 4ohms) wouldn't get the speakers anywhere near their limit. It'd also be pretty quiet. Wouldn't be any point changing from headunit

[lolmclol]

The Pope has spoken.