Bare minimum for engine swap

[Dyln.bxtr]

I would still recommend finding an ek4 loom and using it as a guide.

[CptKaos]

Well the spaghetti monster runs, the ecu is sitting on the floor and wires are everywhere, but it's running like a top.

Had some issues getting the plumbing right, thermostat didn't like the header tank feeding in next to it, wouldn't open, so put the feed in upstream of that and it works fine, fan is kicking in and out and hold temp nicely.

Had a few MIL codes to sort out but they're all done now, cold start and everything seems fine, although I still cant drive it obviously, the only code I'm getting now is 11, which I can't find any info on, but I only get that with service wire shorted, no MIL when running so prob not worth worrying about????

Existing loom is not in good nick, lots of hard/broken insulation so next step is a new loom, which brings me to my next decision.
I've found somewhere that sells ecu plugs and pins, so do I stick with my JDM OBD2A ecu and use a harness to convert to OBD1 for Hondata, if I go that way, or do I just make the loom to suit an OBD1 ecu and go straight to Hondata?

I'm leaning towards going OBD1 straight away, I guess my questions are,

1, what are the pro's and cons of going to OBD1, what sort of gains would I see. Engine is stock atm, bigger TB and completely different intake from stock, PLM Toda extractors into full 2.5' mandrell bent exhaust, no PS or A/C, lightweight flywheel and clutch.
Would the stock ecu run that as well as a tuned ecu?

Does the JDM ecu have the 180kph speed limit?

2, what sort of maps do the Hondata equipped ecus come with, will it simply plug and play with a similar tune to what the stock ecu currently runs, and fine tune from there, or will it require a full tune from the start?
I have neither the gear or knowledge to tune myself so will be dependant on someone else to do it for me.

[ECU-MAN]

code 11 is a Hondata code for engine over heat.

Code 11 will be one long MIL pulse and one short MIL pulse

code 20 is to long pulses

[rc_]

Well the spaghetti monster runs, the ecu is sitting on the floor and wires are everywhere, but it's running like a top.

Had some issues getting the plumbing right, thermostat didn't like the header tank feeding in next to it, wouldn't open, so put the feed in upstream of that and it works fine, fan is kicking in and out and hold temp nicely.

Had a few MIL codes to sort out but they're all done now, cold start and everything seems fine, although I still cant drive it obviously, the only code I'm getting now is 11, which I can't find any info on, but I only get that with service wire shorted, no MIL when running so prob not worth worrying about????

Existing loom is not in good nick, lots of hard/broken insulation so next step is a new loom, which brings me to my next decision.
I've found somewhere that sells ecu plugs and pins, so do I stick with my JDM OBD2A ecu and use a harness to convert to OBD1 for Hondata, if I go that way, or do I just make the loom to suit an OBD1 ecu and go straight to Hondata?

I'm leaning towards going OBD1 straight away, I guess my questions are,

1, what are the pro's and cons of going to OBD1, what sort of gains would I see. Engine is stock atm, bigger TB and completely different intake from stock, PLM Toda extractors into full 2.5' mandrell bent exhaust, no PS or A/C, lightweight flywheel and clutch.
Would the stock ecu run that as well as a tuned ecu?

Does the JDM ecu have the 180kph speed limit?

2, what sort of maps do the Hondata equipped ecus come with, will it simply plug and play with a similar tune to what the stock ecu currently runs, and fine tune from there, or will it require a full tune from the start?
I have neither the gear or knowledge to tune myself so will be dependant on someone else to do it for me.

When I loaded the the Hondata base maps on my fairly stock build it ran pretty rich everywhere. It didn't drive too badly but there was a lot of safety margin. Not a heap different in part throttle when I tried the itr map vs another b18c map.

There are a few provided when you download smanager, I just ended up using a jdmb18c map to start with.

Do you have a wideband to monitor your AFR's?

[CptKaos]

It's definitely code 11, 1 long followed by one short.
Just lifted the cover off the ecu, has no hondata board and has not been socketed butchered at all so no idea where the 11 code is coming from, manual suggests tossing ecu's when they throw up dodgey codes???

It's a P73-023 2001 JDM ecu, do you think it will have the 180kph speed limit?
I will be tracking it so can't have that, is it "defeatable"?

No wideband sorry, but good to know the base maps supplied were ok to start with, sounds like I should just go OBD1 now, building an OBD2 loom only to find out I have to swap because of the speed limit would do my head in.

Thanks for the help guys, John would you have an ECU you could hook me up with?

[ECU-MAN]

If there is a gap between the MIL flashed you could have code 10 and code 1

You cannot defeat the speed limiter on the JDM P73 ECU

Unfortunately I do not have any AUDM P73 ECU's

[CptKaos]

Sorry I meant an OBD1 ecu or something already hondatated...</new word

[CptKaos]

Just had a bit of a search and a refurbed ecu with a Hondata 300v3 is going to set me back about a grand by the look of it, the last brand new haltech sprint ecu I bought for less than that.
So if I get it registered with the JDM ecu, I can then put in whatever I like, so any advantage in an OBD1 ecu + Hondata over haltech/etc?

[CptKaos]

OK, cat skinned another way.

I pulled out the VSS and pulled it apart by spinning off the platsic ring holding the sensor together, then removed the internal wheel that spins and checked it with a magnet.
Although it's made out of plastic there's several spots where the magnet sticks.
Research shows the sensor puts out 5 pulses per rev of the wheel, so I cut a half moon off both sides, to keep it balanced, the glued it back together and bolted it back on.
Meter now shows only 2 pulses per wheel rev so hopefully problem solved.
I can adjust my dash to read the changed signal so that's not a problem, my only remaining query is whether or not the VSS has any effect on the running of the motor bar the speed output and the 180kph limit.
My guess is it does not have any effect on fueling/timing, can anyone confirm this?

[CptKaos]

For those that have helped me here and aren't aware of my other thread it's finished, thanks so much for all the help here, would of struggled more without it.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post4007649