Cluster temp gauge fluctuation/engine overheating??/

**carayan** · 31-10-2014 12:50 AM

So since I finished my swap I've been dealing with several heat related gremlins, but its come to a point where I'm lost so I'm hoping for help.

Here's a brief timeline:

Finished swap, cluster showed temp rising rapidly
Changed valve cover ground, it stabilised the cluster
During long drives, it is fine but when you come to a stop the temp starts to rise
Did a really short shitty bleed (car jacked up, cap open push out bubbles). had a few bubbles come out, no issues after this for about a week
Driving on the freeway and the temp starts to rise again, at one point the cluster JUMPS several notches on the cluster, I have to use the heater to keep temps stable.
Bought and replaced thermostat and fan switch as it seemed like fan wasn't 100%, bled system properly, fans came on 3 times, motor held at 2-3k rpm, bubbles released etc.
Go for drive, temp wobbles slightly up and down, but still in what would be considered normal and most of the time was stable.
Come to a stop, temp rises slightly, then JUMPS (in one movement) several notches
Fan kicks in, brings it back down. It rises again slightly, this time no jumping, and when it does fan kicks in to bring it back down

Also noting I changed my cluster at the start as well..

In saying that I'm not sure where to go from here in sorting this out.
I'm yet to test ECT and all that (I'm not getting any codes) and last step I guess would be to test for compression in case I've blown a head gasket.

Any insight would be great.

**lolmclol** · 31-10-2014 01:39 AM

pm cbauto

**curtis265** · 31-10-2014 10:29 AM

If you jack it up and let it idle for ages does the temp kick around?

**carayan** · 31-10-2014 10:55 AM

When car was being need after the change the temp didn't seem to kick around at all

**cbauto** · 31-10-2014 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by carayan

So since I finished my swap I've been dealing with several heat related gremlins, but its come to a point where I'm lost so I'm hoping for help.

Here's a brief timeline:

Finished swap, cluster showed temp rising rapidly
Changed valve cover ground, it stabilised the cluster
During long drives, it is fine but when you come to a stop the temp starts to rise
Did a really short shitty bleed (car jacked up, cap open push out bubbles). had a few bubbles come out, no issues after this for about a week
Driving on the freeway and the temp starts to rise again, at one point the cluster JUMPS several notches on the cluster, I have to use the heater to keep temps stable.
Bought and replaced thermostat and fan switch as it seemed like fan wasn't 100%, bled system properly, fans came on 3 times, motor held at 2-3k rpm, bubbles released etc.
Go for drive, temp wobbles slightly up and down, but still in what would be considered normal and most of the time was stable.
Come to a stop, temp rises slightly, then JUMPS (in one movement) several notches
Fan kicks in, brings it back down. It rises again slightly, this time no jumping, and when it does fan kicks in to bring it back down

Also noting I changed my cluster at the start as well..

In saying that I'm not sure where to go from here in sorting this out.
I'm yet to test ECT and all that (I'm not getting any codes) and last step I guess would be to test for compression in case I've blown a head gasket.

Any insight would be great.

you already know what to do.

up to you which order you do it in.

coolant system pressure test too.

**ECU-MAN** · 31-10-2014 11:20 AM

what engine is it ?

was the heater temp dial set to hot when you filled the coolant ?

does the engine have a bleed nipple for the cooling system ?

**carayan** · 31-10-2014 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

what engine is it ?

was the heater temp dial set to hot when you filled the coolant ?

does the engine have a bleed nipple for the cooling system ?

94 b18c2
Heater dial was set to hot
Motor does have a separate bleed nipped near upper hose that I haven't touched, yet.

**ECU-MAN** · 31-10-2014 02:24 PM

well you mentioned you replaced the thermostat, was the old one seized ? did you test it ?

overheating when stationary could be the thermo fans not kicking in due to air pocket in the coolant not allowing the sensor to read correctly to trigger the fans or the sensor or the fan motor.

what radiator fan are you running ? where is it placed ? which direction is it moving the air ?

when filling the coolant open the bleed nipple you described.

Is your radiator blocked ?

are you using the EG small radiator ?

**carayan** · 31-10-2014 04:36 PM

Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

well you mentioned you replaced the thermostat, was the old one seized ? did you test it ?

overheating when stationary could be the thermo fans not kicking in due to air pocket in the coolant not allowing the sensor to read correctly to trigger the fans or the sensor or the fan motor.

what radiator fan are you running ? where is it placed ? which direction is it moving the air ?

when filling the coolant open the bleed nipple you described.

Is your radiator blocked ?

are you using the EG small radiator ?

thermo i will be testing in boiling water soon, didn't have the frame of mind to test it first lol

as soon as the cluster jumped the fans kicked in. while bleeding the fans came on 3 times before i stopped bleeding.

i am using oem fan on a dual core 32mm aluminium radiator (ebay rad), its placed in the normal position. when fans come on i can feel them blowing air (maybe fan spinning wrong way?)

i bled the system using this method:

should i attempt rebleed with the nipple open?

the rad was brand new out of the box, cant comment on if its blocked or not.

as above, not using EG small radiator.

**cbauto** · 31-10-2014 04:43 PM

Originally Posted by carayan

thermo i will be testing in boiling water soon, didn't have the frame of mind to test it first lol

as soon as the cluster jumped the fans kicked in. while bleeding the fans came on 3 times before i stopped bleeding.

i am using oem fan on a dual core 32mm aluminium radiator (ebay rad), its placed in the normal position. when fans come on i can feel them blowing air (maybe fan spinning wrong way?)

i bled the system using this method:

should i attempt rebleed with the nipple open?

the rad was brand new out of the box, cant comment on if its blocked or not.

as above, not using EG small radiator.

bled system already with bnib thermostat.

bleeding again with the nipple open isn't going to make a difference.

**RenzokukenJ** · 31-10-2014 04:44 PM

Fans blow is correct way

Open the nipple and catch the coolant running out, you should have it open while the car is on, if there's any air bubbles they will come out of the bleed nipple. If there's continuous stream of coolant and you are satisfied with the bleed just close it up and go for a drive