Overall parts combination

[VT3C]

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to DreadAngel again."

Dread are you the only one on here I've been liking their posts ?? haha

A lot of people do dump insane amount of $$$ because they either have no clue about cars or they go trust someone [eg Workshops etc] that take them for a ride. It all comes down to these points:

1) Clear Goal - Have a very clear idea what you want from your car, a lot of messy builds and wasted money comes from "I'm only going to do bolt-ons" to "I want just a little more" to "Ah **** it lets go all out". Just doing bolt-ons [When I talk bolt ons, I'm talking about more than just I/H/E] it can get expensive. So imagine if you had to rip all the stuff out and upgrade to more substantial parts? Labour, lost $$$ in sale of used parts, buying more parts = $$$$$$$$.

It's very difficult I know to have a very clear idea and we often get inspired by cars we see or read about but have a goal [Obtainable one and one that you know will keep you 'content'] and you will be less likely to run into the above scenario.

2) Research, Knowledge & Experience - I cannot stress enough these 3 things when it comes to cars. It sounds simple but a lot of people simply jump into modding cars blindly. While internet/forums isn't a 100% reliable source of information, it will still give you ideas about the cost, involvement and rough idea on the improvements/sacrifices made by a part(s). Read from multiple sources and read up about general car mechanics and physics cause this also helps you to understand how things work and when someone is talking about something that isn't quite right, you can pick it up.

Experience if you're starting out comes from guys that have been doing it a long time be it DIYers or Workshops. If you have them work on your car, try to be as involved as possible [Some people don't want you close, others don't mind giving you a mechanic/tuner 101], over time you'll get to pick up both skill and knowledge off them, making it easier to get things right and cheaper cause you can install or at least remove parts to make labour cheaper. If you're lucky and passionate enough, you'll become like them if you get it all right.

3) That Partlist - It's not obvious what that magical partlist you want can do for you at first, but once you've laid out the plan, you can quickly see if any new additions will impact on your build. The above point helps you determine this.

4) Sources, Contacts & Used Parts - A key cost component is parts, while its great just snapping up parts from the biggest store so you get that warm fuzzy feeling is cool for that split moment, long run its not brilliant.

Always check out what can be bought as a used part [Used parts itself beware of self imposed taxes, condition of parts, etc etc] as not everything 'can' be 2nd hand, lot of things to save you headaches and money should be bought new.

Have several key points of reference price wise and contacts that can help you get stuff from other countries also helps. A lot of my parts for example come from Japan, so I have several agents, contacts etc that work or located in JP to help me get the stuff I want either off Yahoo Auction or other websites. Some extra work and patience can really pay off too.

If you're buying frequently and a lot from shops in Australia, try to build a relationship with the seller, you may get discounts or notified of specials etc.



Not everyone does it like this, but those I've seen with builds that work generally have all these working for them.

[nickk]

Don't worry so much about what is the best possible combo.
Once you are at certain level its all much of a much-ness, what you are choosing between is reliability and price.
You just need to decide what level to take your car to.

I've owned several B16 and B18 civics and a few other chassis
I think that I was a much better driver than some others so I consistently beat more powerful cars and more modified Honda's than my own,
this is probably my biggest point.

Your budget is the most important factor, but assuming you want to be reasonable but still spend money this is what I would be doing

1. coilovers (too many options, I would be looking at how stiff rather than which brand, theres heaps of good ones)
2. a bucket seat - recaro/bride something genuine not rep
3. 15x7 or 15x8 but not sticking out, +20 +25 type offset lowest - something genuine not rep
tyres -195/50/r15 or 205/50r15 semi slicks
4. adjustable camber arms front and rear
5. thicker sway bar like off an integra type r dc2 and a subframe brace for it

6. full bush kit, like all of them.

7. strut brace rear, tower or strut brace front

8. Integra dc2 vti-r brakes or 5 stud conversion

9. power steering and aircon delete


This would be the fun part

10.

Pull out motor, rebuild bottom end
Raise compression (several ways to do this)
Replace valves, springs, cams with more aggressive
...with stock bottom end, CTR cams, or a stg 1 set of cams are a good choice, you want even power if you want an overall combo.

ECU (s300 hondata), INTAKE (mugen airbox or something that isnt short and metal), headers (4-2-1), high flow cat, cat back exhaust.


and then next important, a good good dyno tune, this is extremely important, you could have a really nice car that's shit because of a shit tuner.

Then comes all the bullshit dress up mods.. I'd make my eg look like an eg6 prob

[chargeR]

My goals:
-A track/daily driver

Given what you've stated here I'd leave the car alone and head to a few track days. You're not going to have any idea what you want/need from the car until you head to the track.

[bennjamin]

Given what you've stated here I'd leave the car alone and head to a few track days. You're not going to have any idea what you want/need from the car until you head to the track.

Totally agree. Take it AS IS , bring some fuel and engine oil for a top up post event. Drop ya tyre pressure a touch and enjoy.

[DreadAngel]

Given what you've stated here I'd leave the car alone and head to a few track days. You're not going to have any idea what you want/need from the car until you head to the track.

Totally agree. Take it AS IS , bring some fuel and engine oil for a top up post event. Drop ya tyre pressure a touch and enjoy.

This OP, then comeback to us with feedback with your car as is condition etc

Go by feel not the timesheet, that'll come as you become more experience

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to DreadAngel again."

Dread are you the only one on here I've been liking their posts ?? haha

I love you too man =P

[Blaze]

Thanks you guys! I'll take it to the track and I'll see how I go. Who knows, I may save myself some money in the process...

[Hondarally]

Yep that's a good start.

Before you go, check all fluids (recommend a brake fluid flush first) and check condition of suspension bushes, brakes, tyres etc. I've seen plenty of worn out cars come to grief at tracks because of poor maintenance.

As for tyres, I wouldn't be letting too much pressure out of your tyres, if any. Road tyres rely on pressure to maintain stiffness (as opposed to r spec tyres which have a much stiffer sidewall). Heat and pressure both kill tyres, but if your cold pressures are too low they will overheat internally (not necessarily related to tread temperatures). There's a misconception that the heat inside the tyre is generated by the friction with the track. Yes, this contributes, but is not the only source. I've seen heavy earthmoving tyres blow from excessive heat (you could smell the rubber burning from 100m away well before the tyre blew).

If the pressure is too high, you will lose a little grip. If it's too low, you can peel the tyre off the rim, or delaminate due to over temp. I know which I'd rather have. Of course this decision isn't as clear cut as it used to be, with the lines between road tyres and track tyres blurring all the time. Best to see what recommended pressures are for your tyres, and start at the high side (remember that all pressures are rated as cold. The pressure will increase when hot, and hot pressures can safely exceed the maximum rated cold pressure). You can always bleed a little pressure off after each run to gauge its impact, being careful not to go too low (again, once the tyre cools, you might find the pressure below the safe limit).

If it's your first time at the track, don't worry about playing with tyre pressures though. Set them at a safe level and leave them be. Chances are you won't notice any difference as you'll have too many other things going on.

[VT3C]

Yes, take your stock car, street tyres anything.. BUT.. I strongly recommend Baffled Oil Pan #1 only critical 'mod' !

Engine can be in fine shape with fresh fluids etc but longer corners at sustained mid-to-high RPM may cause oil starvation to your bottom end bearings and result in catastrophic engine failure.

Yes some people say to just over-fill your oil pan to side-step this, but over-filling with oil can create other problems on it's own.

[Super-DA9]

Good front pads and brake fluid are a wise investment for your first track day. Having your brakes fade out after one hot lap really kills the fun lolol.

[Blaze]

Yes, take your stock car, street tyres anything.. BUT.. I strongly recommend Baffled Oil Pan #1 only critical 'mod' !

Engine can be in fine shape with fresh fluids etc but longer corners at sustained mid-to-high RPM may cause oil starvation to your bottom end bearings and result in catastrophic engine failure.

Yes some people say to just over-fill your oil pan to side-step this, but over-filling with oil can create other problems on it's own.

Wouldn't that be exactly the same on the street though? With 4 litres of oil would there really be a risk? Once the oil is circulating through the engine etc how much oil would be left in the oil pan for continued circulation?

[curtis265]

Wouldn't that be exactly the same on the street though? With 4 litres of oil would there really be a risk? Once the oil is circulating through the engine etc how much oil would be left in the oil pan for continued circulation?

this is to stop the oil pump from dry reaching under hard cornering

something that doesn't happen on the street

[bennjamin]

this is to stop the oil pump from dry reaching under hard cornering

something that doesn't happen on the street

Guise pls

This shouldn't happen with normal road tyres at the track. IE overkill.

A baffled sump is a MUST if you are running semi slick tyres or better.
Normal road tyres will simply not get any where near the G forces applied to the oil supply in the sump. Worry about this when you get serious kids and please as always monitor your oil level and top of if need be.