Fellas, how important is it to brace the rear of the extractors to the back of the engine block similar to the metal bracket that holds the original manifold and engine pipe?
Well everything is in, I'm just doing fluids etc over the next couple of days when I get a chance.
I need to re-torque a cam bolt. One of the longer bolts which holds the silver spark plug cover had a slightly damaged thread under the plug cover nut so I ordered a replacement.
I'm thinking a re-torque of all of them seeing I've disturbed this one?
Does anyone have access to the torque settings for these bolts? There seems to be three types of bolts in total that would have different settings I imagine.
4 10mm outer bolts, 4 10mm end cap bolts which sit closest the cam gears and 20 12mm main bolts.
Sorry fellas, tension onto the cam? So in the above picture number three stud/bolt was not very smooth so I had to replace the whole stud which in turn holds down the cam.
Seeing I've disturbed one, as in replaced it with a new one from Honda, should I retension the entire cam?
Sorry fellas, tension onto the cam? So in the above picture number three stud/bolt was not very smooth so I had to replace the whole stud which in turn holds down the cam.
Seeing I've disturbed one, as in replaced it with a new one from Honda, should I retension the entire cam?
He's talking about one of the cam cap bolts guise. 4 of them have a stud on top.
Well, I've hit the first snag. Engine turns over but will not fire. First thing I did was cracked the banjo on the fuel filter and line is pressurised. I then pulled the B18C7 ECU out and put the B18B ECU in and the car starts and idles sweet. Put the C7 ECU back in and it won't start.
In it's original vehicle the engine started and ran fine, I know because I drove it.
Could the ECU now be faulty or is there a connection missing from the B18B firewall loom to the B18C7 engine loom?
The C7 came with engine loom and ECU. It plugs up to original loom perfectly but I guess something is missing.
Bookmarks