[CL9]2004 Accord Euro Lux 120,000km - recent acquisition - some issues

[brad1.8tsi]

Hi
My daughter just inherited a 2004 Accord Euro Lux Auto off her grandfather.

It has a few issues that are probably related to lack of maintenance - the service book has no record of anything done beyond the basic engine oil & filter service.

I'll run through my list and what I think needs doing. I'm happy to get any suggestions on what else to do and any other preventive maintenance tasks or known wear items, etc.

1) Auto transmission judders & jerks on light throttle openings - particularly when cold.
The level is at the lower end of the dipstick and the oil doesn't look great. I assume it's never been changed.
My fix: I've purchased 8L of Penrite full synth LV ATF. I'll dump the oil and also blow out the cooler & try and do an 8L flush-through with the engine running.

I figure change the lousy little filter on top of the gearbox too. It doesn't look anything special - anyone pulled one apart?
Anyone tried one of these eBay replacements from China for $15?

2) The steering loads and unloads when going through corners.
3) The steering is quite heavy at parking speeds but comes good once moving above 20kph - is this normal?
The tyres are relatively new (changed last year) Toyo C100 and an alignment was done at the time although there's no guarantee Dad hasn't belted a kerb in the meantime. I put 36psi in them which is better than the 26psi Dad liked to run (he had a 1997 Accord Seppo V6 before the Euro and always regretted the change).
I'm thinking it's fluid again and have bought 1L of Penrite HSPO.
I haven't checked the front or rear suspension - is there anything that is likely to be worn by now?

4) Brake pedal - long travel and not progressive (compared to a VW pedal which are over-boosted).
I'm hoping it's just 12yo brake fluid and have 1L of Nulon Dot4 to put through it.

5) Mild vibration at idle through steering wheel (same as my wife's 2015 Honda Odyssey).
I'm used to a 2007 Octavia 1.8tsi which is clockwork smooth at idle. Is a slight vibration through the steering wheel normal on these engines?

I've filled it with 95ron and some injector cleaner. Based on past practices, I can almost guarantee that Dad used mainly ULP or ULP E10 with a tank of 95 every birthday & Xmas. (He did the same with his Liberty RX and it was a slug when I bought it off him - never came good).

Does 98ron have any noticeable effect on these engines (beside the extra detergent / cleaners)?

Spark plugs look like originals and the gap was about 1.3mm, so I've knocked it down to a loose 0.040" (just over 1.0mm) as a temporary fix. Am I better off spending $15 each on the NGK Iridiums or $7.50 each on NGK coppers (ZFR6K-11) and change every 20,000km?

Air filter looks dirty. I'll swap it out.
Anyone used Wesfil or the no-name stuff from Direct Auto Spares on eBay?

Fuel Filter is in the fuel tank? That would be due by now?

I'm not even game to look at the cabin filter :-(

Is there some way of converting the lights so that they switch off with the ignition? I haven't had to switch headlights on and off for years.

Anything else I need to think about?

Thanks in advance

[Fredoops]

.
It has a few issues that are probably related to lack of maintenance - the service book has no record of anything done beyond the basic engine oil & filter service.

On dear....

1) Auto transmission judders & jerks on light throttle openings - particularly when cold.
The level is at the lower end of the dipstick and the oil doesn't look great. I assume it's never been changed.
My fix: I've purchased 8L of Penrite full synth LV ATF. I'll dump the oil and also blow out the cooler & try and do an 8L flush-through with the engine running

.

Yep that's good. I should note the total fluid capacity is just under 9 litres

I figure change the lousy little filter on top of the gearbox too. It doesn't look anything special - anyone pulled one apart?
Anyone tried one of these eBay replacements from China for $15?

Get an aftermarket Magnefine filter from repco. The cheap chinese filters will work but most of them don't have the internal bypass like the oem. The magnetize is a bigger a better filter. Only downside being that it won't fit the factory bracket.

2) The steering loads and unloads when going through corners.
3) The steering is quite heavy at parking speeds but comes good once moving above 20kph - is this normal?
The tyres are relatively new (changed last year) Toyo C100 and an alignment was done at the time although there's no guarantee Dad hasn't belted a kerb in the meantime. I put 36psi in them which is better than the 26psi Dad liked to run (he had a 1997 Accord Seppo V6 before the Euro and always regretted the change).
I'm thinking it's fluid again and have bought 1L of Penrite HSPO

.

I did a flush with it and used 3 litres to flush everything out. And you're meant to over fill the fluid by a few cm in those cars.

Ps: there has been a power steering hose recall on this car. Has it been done?

I haven't checked the front or rear suspension - is there anything that is likely to be worn by now?

Front compliance bushings tend to go at old age but if the cars passed RWC then I'd assume it's ok?

4) Brake pedal - long travel and not progressive (compared to a VW pedal which are over-boosted).
I'm hoping it's just 12yo brake fluid and have 1L of Nulon Dot4 to put through it.

That's normal.

5) Mild vibration at idle through steering wheel (same as my wife's 2015 Honda Odyssey).
I'm used to a 2007 Octavia 1.8tsi which is clockwork smooth at idle. Is a slight vibration through the steering wheel normal on these engines?

Idle in gear or idle in neutral? If it idle in gear it might be from the transmission instead.

I've filled it with 95ron and some injector cleaner. Based on past practices, I can almost guarantee that Dad used mainly ULP or ULP E10 with a tank of 95 every birthday & Xmas. (He did the same with his Liberty RX and it was a slug when I bought it off him - never came good).

E10 is actually "OK" on those cars as long as:

1. Its the 95 octane e10, and
2. you don't keep it in the tank for too long.

91 octane is a NO NO in those cars.

Does 98ron have any noticeable effect on these engines (beside the extra detergent / cleaners)?

Not on a stock car no. Just run a few tanks of 95 with injector cleaner

Spark plugs look like originals and the gap was about 1.3mm, so I've knocked it down to a loose 0.040" (just over 1.0mm) as a temporary fix. Am I better off spending $15 each on the NGK Iridiums or $7.50 each on NGK coppers (ZFR6K-11) and change every 20,000km?

Get iridium for the application and forget about it for 100k km

Air filter looks dirty. I'll swap it out.
Anyone used Wesfil or the no-name stuff from Direct Auto Spares on eBay?

Yep. Cheap ebay paper filter is fine.

Fuel Filter is in the fuel tank? That would be due by now?

Yep. Every 80k km. I used an eBay one. Works just fine for 40 bucks or so

I'm not even game to look at the cabin filter :-(

Swap it out asap. Especially if any family member have respiratory problems.

Is there some way of converting the lights so that they switch off with the ignition? I haven't had to switch headlights on and off for years.

No.

Anything else I need to think about?

1. engine and throttlebody cleaning before your next oil change.

1a. Nulon engine cleaner or the subaru upper engine cleaner.

1b. Clean the intake manifold via the egr plate then throttlebody:
http://hondakarma.com/guides/exhaust...plate-clean.4/
Note: instead of using alcohol in the guide. Use the engine cleaner. And spray some down the holes into the intake manifold.

[aaronng]

1) Auto transmission judders & jerks on light throttle openings - particularly when cold.
The level is at the lower end of the dipstick and the oil doesn't look great. I assume it's never been changed.
My fix: I've purchased 8L of Penrite full synth LV ATF. I'll dump the oil and also blow out the cooler & try and do an 8L flush-through with the engine running.

I'm a fan of Honda ATF, because of the odd viscosity. However, Penrite should be okay, just check that it lists Honda as one of the OEM standards that it meets.

I figure change the lousy little filter on top of the gearbox too. It doesn't look anything special - anyone pulled one apart?
Anyone tried one of these eBay replacements from China for $15?

Good idea, it is a standard auto transmission filter. All of the ebay ones work, although quality can vary. I think there is a DIY post somewhere on Ozhonda on replacing it and a comparison of the different brands.

2) The steering loads and unloads when going through corners.
3) The steering is quite heavy at parking speeds but comes good once moving above 20kph - is this normal?

I'd replace the power steering fluid with Honda Power Steering Fluid, and check that the accessory belt tension is okay. If it has nevber been changed, might be worth changing it now. It uses a 7PK1750. You can check the belt tensioner for belt elongation, but it has never been changed, I'd change it anyway.

The tyres are relatively new (changed last year) Toyo C100 and an alignment was done at the time although there's no guarantee Dad hasn't belted a kerb in the meantime. I put 36psi in them which is better than the 26psi Dad liked to run (he had a 1997 Accord Seppo V6 before the Euro and always regretted the change).
I'm thinking it's fluid again and have bought 1L of Penrite HSPO.
I haven't checked the front or rear suspension - is there anything that is likely to be worn by now?

36 psi is good. Rare that the alignment would change unless he hit the kerb hard. Check the rims for bad damage. If there is damage, then get an alignment. The front and rear suspension is usually okay if the car was not lowered, but there may be worn suspension bushings by now. Mine are still the original and I am at 141,000km.

4) Brake pedal - long travel and not progressive (compared to a VW pedal which are over-boosted).
I'm hoping it's just 12yo brake fluid and have 1L of Nulon Dot4 to put through it.

Yup, change the brake fluid. DOT4 is good. I recommend flushing through the master cylinder (start with the caliper closest to the brake booster, so the order is: driver front, passenger front, driver rear, passenger rear). After flushing, then open the brake bleeder valve again and compress the piston to push out the dirty fluid still trapped in the caliper.

5) Mild vibration at idle through steering wheel (same as my wife's 2015 Honda Odyssey).
I'm used to a 2007 Octavia 1.8tsi which is clockwork smooth at idle. Is a slight vibration through the steering wheel normal on these engines?

Engine mounts need replacing. Mine were bad too, and is also a 2004 model.

I've filled it with 95ron and some injector cleaner. Based on past practices, I can almost guarantee that Dad used mainly ULP or ULP E10 with a tank of 95 every birthday & Xmas. (He did the same with his Liberty RX and it was a slug when I bought it off him - never came good).

Does 98ron have any noticeable effect on these engines (beside the extra detergent / cleaners)?

The car runs fine on both 95 and 98 RON. Shouldn't be much of a difference, other than the detergents/cleaners.

Spark plugs look like originals and the gap was about 1.3mm, so I've knocked it down to a loose 0.040" (just over 1.0mm) as a temporary fix. Am I better off spending $15 each on the NGK Iridiums or $7.50 each on NGK coppers (ZFR6K-11) and change every 20,000km?

Use Iridiums, they are good for 120,000 km.

Air filter looks dirty. I'll swap it out.
Anyone used Wesfil or the no-name stuff from Direct Auto Spares on eBay?

As long as they are a reasonable paper filter, it is ok. The air filter is cheap anyway. Won't save much going with no-name, unlike the cabin filter!!!

Fuel Filter is in the fuel tank? That would be due by now?

Yup, in the fuel tank. Due for replacement every 80,000 km. Get it changed!

I'm not even game to look at the cabin filter :-(

Wear a blindfold! Take pics I guess, it would be fun to see what has accumulated all these years!

Is there some way of converting the lights so that they switch off with the ignition? I haven't had to switch headlights on and off for years.

Not that I know of, as the ECU needs to know to take the reading off the sunlight sensor and switch the headlights on and off. Unfortunately, the 2004 Accord Euro uses the sunlight sensor only to boost the fan speed and lower the temperature of the aircon

[brad1.8tsi]

Yep that's good. I should note the total fluid capacity is just under 9 litres

Thanks, I figured I'd wing it with 8L of good oil and 1L of old crap and do it again in 12 months - couldn't be shagged buying an extra litre for $20 and don't want "spare parts" hanging about the garage.

Get an aftermarket Magnefine filter from repco. The cheap chinese filters will work but most of them don't have the internal bypass like the oem. The magnetize is a bigger a better filter. Only downside being that it won't fit the factory bracket.

I've just ordered a genuine knockoff from Aliexpress. I'll change it again in 12 months.

I did a flush with it and used 3 litres to flush everything out. And you're meant to over fill the fluid by a few cm in those cars.

Overfill the PS reservoir? Got a link as to how much?

Ps: there has been a power steering hose recall on this car. Has it been done?

Dunno. The air bag hasn't been done so I'll ask when I book it in for that.

If they do the PS hose, do they dump the PS fluid or lose a reasonable amount? If so, I'll let them do that then R&R my bit.

Front compliance bushings tend to go at old age but if the cars passed RWC then I'd assume it's ok?

Mechs don't look at a real lot when doing a Safety Check these days. I'll jack it up and have a look & give it a shake.

Idle in gear or idle in neutral? If it idle in gear it might be from the transmission instead.

In gear. I'll do all the basics (fluids / filters / plugs) and see how it feels then.

Get iridium for the application and forget about it for 100k km

Just ordered 4x NGK from the USA for AUD50 set

Swap it out asap. Especially if any family member have respiratory problems.

Decided to have a peek. Worst I've ever seen. My hands came away black.

1. engine and throttlebody cleaning before your next oil change.

1a. Nulon engine cleaner or the subaru upper engine cleaner.

1b. Clean the intake manifold via the egr plate then throttlebody:
http://hondakarma.com/guides/exhaust...plate-clean.4/
Note: instead of using alcohol in the guide. Use the engine cleaner. And spray some down the holes into the intake manifold.

Good to see that it's not just VW product that gunks up. I'll add it to the "to-do" list

Thanks for the info

[brad1.8tsi]

Any idea where I could find the OEM partnos for the cabin filter, air filter and fuel filter?

thx

edit: does this sound right:

Air filter 17220-RAA-A00

Cabin filter 80292-sdc-a01

[Fredoops]

Any idea where I could find the OEM partnos for the cabin filter, air filter and fuel filter?

thx

edit: does this sound right:

Air filter 17220-RAA-A00

Cabin filter 80292-sdc-a01

Any Honda cabin filter would fit, they're all the same, no need for oem

PS: Chrysler also use the same sized and shape filter lol

[beeza]

Instead of subaru upper engine cleaner - WATER, works really really well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KFtp_jmLF3k

I use a big syringe/marinade injector,just like a turkey baster.$2 from the reject shop.

[brad1.8tsi]

I'm a fan of Honda ATF, because of the odd viscosity. However, Penrite should be okay, just check that it lists Honda as one of the OEM standards that it meets.

I chose it because it meets Honda DW-1.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pd...UNE%202015.pdf

36 psi is good. Rare that the alignment would change unless he hit the kerb hard. Check the rims for bad damage. If there is damage, then get an alignment. The front and rear suspension is usually okay if the car was not lowered, but there may be worn suspension bushings by now. Mine are still the original and I am at 141,000km.

If the corners of the bumper are anything to go by, he's been touch parking for quite a while. Kerbs wouldn't be exempt.

Is there a thread anywhere on the suspension and what adjustments are available?

Engine mounts need replacing. Mine were bad too, and is also a 2004 model.

Any obvious signs to look for? leaking oil (assume they are fluid mounts) or do they just look like they have exploded?
Aftermarket source?

Use Iridiums, they are good for 120,000 km.

NGK ordered yesterday and already in transit. AUD52

Wear a blindfold! Take pics I guess, it would be fun to see what has accumulated all these years!

Here it is

Not that I know of, as the ECU needs to know to take the reading off the sunlight sensor and switch the headlights on and off. Unfortunately, the 2004 Accord Euro uses the sunlight sensor only to boost the fan speed and lower the temperature of the aircon

I don't need automatic light sensing switching. I just need the lights to turn off when I switch off the ignition and turn on when I switch on the ignition.

It's not that I'm lazy or stupid, it's just what I'm used to. I drive 3-5 different vehicles a week and they all turn the lights on automatically, so I'm out of the habit of switching on/off lights. I've already been caught twice driving the accord down the road in the dark with no lights on like a gormless twit.

[brad1.8tsi]

Any Honda cabin filter would fit, they're all the same, no need for oem

PS: Chrysler also use the same sized and shape filter lol

I don't intend buying OEM. On Aliexpress if you search by OEM number it's easier to find a good knock-off. :-)

I was actually thinking of buying some fish tank foam filter and fitting that. About $5 and washable.

[brad1.8tsi]

Instead of subaru upper engine cleaner - WATER, works really really well.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KFtp_jmLF3k

I use a big syringe/marinade injector,just like a turkey baster.$2 from the reject shop.

Yes, I've been doing inlet cleaning with water for years. If you own VW group cars with direct injection it's an essential bit of maintenance.

I use a mix of 2 parts water, 1 part degreaser and 1 part mineral turps and make up about 2 litres of cleaner. I inject it using a garden sprayer so that it is pre-atomised.

In the 80s i used to run Injectronic water injection on my Falcon & Capri

[aaronng]

Is there a thread anywhere on the suspension and what adjustments are available?

Yes, if you do a search for "alignment" in the Accord section, you will find it. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...85#post3211385

Any obvious signs to look for? leaking oil (assume they are fluid mounts) or do they just look like they have exploded?
Aftermarket source?

No obvious signs, other than vibrations. Even the front "hydraulic" mount doesn't show any liquid if they fail.

I don't need automatic light sensing switching. I just need the lights to turn off when I switch off the ignition and turn on when I switch on the ignition.

It's not that I'm lazy or stupid, it's just what I'm used to. I drive 3-5 different vehicles a week and they all turn the lights on automatically, so I'm out of the habit of switching on/off lights. I've already been caught twice driving the accord down the road in the dark with no lights on like a gormless twit.

It is 2004 technology after all. When driving in the evening, I consciously look out for the headlights sign on the dashboard. Also, at night, the dash instruments light up too brightly if you don't turn your headlights on (they then dim).

edit: Can't see the photo of your nasty cabin air filter!

[brad1.8tsi]

Yes, if you do a search for "alignment" in the Accord section, you will find it. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...85#post3211385


No obvious signs, other than vibrations. Even the front "hydraulic" mount doesn't show any liquid if they fail.


It is 2004 technology after all. When driving in the evening, I consciously look out for the headlights sign on the dashboard. Also, at night, the dash instruments light up too brightly if you don't turn your headlights on (they then dim).

edit: Can't see the photo of your nasty cabin air filter!

I have no idea why the photo isn't working. Photobucket folder is set to public. The photo shows on my screen (but it would). I'll try again later if someone also has problems

My Skoda is 2007 - the feature difference is considerable given they are only 3yrs apart and the Skoda was 30% less ($30k). The cultural differences in what Japanese builders think important & Germans / Czech think important are quite interesting.