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  1. #37
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    Jan 2016
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    Perth
    Car:
    Euro 7th Gen
    usually it is when people put aftermarket cheaper thermostats in that are what ends up jamming shut.

    anything below 5-10 degrees (celsius) on the highway will overcool your motor.

    a cooler motor is not a more powerful or efficient one (cooler intake air yes, but not the motor). usually it is 85-95 degrees that motors are performing their best- depending on the setup of the motor. do the coolant temp diagnostic function on your multimedia/climate control and you will see that is exactly where CL9s sit.

    good luck with all those additives man. most do FA and can cause other problems in the engine. good quality oil, maintenance and running it within ideal operating range is what makes engines perform best and last the longest.

  2. #38
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    Sep 2006
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    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Ah true,my thermostat was a cheapie.

    5-10 degrees,below that will over cool the engine. Sounds good mate,I will check that out,cheers!

    Check out the cerma jjman,it really is a great product.

    "Cerma STM-3 is not an additive*– it's a catalyst, and therefore does not alter the state of the motor oil circulating ... Cerma STM-3 does not mix with the oil, it uses the oil as a carrier to move it around the entire engine."

  3. #39
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    Sep 2006
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    Out in Nature
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    91 eg5 b16a
    An overcooled engine can suffer from the following :*
    (a) Increased cylinder wear.
    (6) Dilution of oil due to poor vaporization of petrol.
    (c) Greater formation of sludge.
    (d) Oil does not thin out properly and fluid friction losses are increased.
    (e) Engine does not achieve full power.
    (f) Burnt gases, which leak past piston, condense in the crankcase to form corrosive acids in oil.
    (g) Lower thermal efficiency i.e. more consumption of fuel.
    Table 12.3. Most Probable Causes of Overcooling.

    Int

  4. #40
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    Sep 2006
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    91 eg5 b16a
    Cold climate stuff I.e usa,Europe,tassie

    Thanks mate,will keep this in mind since I moved to a cooler area.

  5. #41
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    Jan 2016
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    Perth
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    Euro 7th Gen
    ok cool i will check out the Cerma product. as there are some products that can do a good job. i.e. there are some really good friction modifiers out there that can really do a great job in their specific application.

    best of luck mate and enjoy the cooler climate.

  6. #42
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    Sep 2006
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    91 eg5 b16a
    Thanks jjman,good to hear ya knowledge mate.

  7. #43
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Just so we're clear....

    All those "cerm [insert name here]" that's all the rage in the past 10 or so years.

    Despite all the "secrecy" are just chemical ceramic...

    In particular. Boron derivatives. Usually Boron Nitrate aka: White Graphite.

    Your average engine oils and other industial lubrication mixes actually already have it.... as a zddp replacement.

    All youre doing is adding to what's already a part of the oil.

    Bascially all those additives are in one way or another. Dry/solid film lubricants.

    There's nothing special or secrete about them.
    http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ilm-lubricants

    All yall have been doing is more or less just using another form of moly that's been around for 50 years+.
    Last edited by Fredoops; 29-12-2016 at 02:26 AM.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  8. #44
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    .

    "Cerma STM-3 is not an additive*– it's a catalyst, and therefore does not alter the state of the motor oil circulating ... Cerma STM-3 does not mix with the oil, it uses the oil as a carrier to move it around the entire engine."
    hogwash.


    What's written above is exactly how zddp and moly and boron nitrate work in every day engine oils. Zddp and moly had been used for 50 plus years.

    They're selling you somthing you already have. And make it sound like it's something special when it's how any other engine additive had been working for 50+ years.

    Boron nitrate is $75 per 100 grams and it'll last you 20 years if you so wish it. Cut out the middle man, or you guys get it from engine oil additive suppliers like ExxonMobil.

    Here's another one of those Boron Nitrate additive sellers. At lease those gus are open and honest about what they are selling you:
    http://www.topspindesign.com/business/bn_additive.htm

    This one even have titanium nano-oxide with the boron.

    Guess where you heard titanium nano-oxide before?

    Castrol Edge **Titanium**, yep. It's in your everyday oil too.
    Last edited by Fredoops; 29-12-2016 at 02:47 AM.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  9. #45
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    91 eg5 b16a
    Nice one Fred.

    REPPED.

    Would you know where I can order the tsd bn product?

  10. #46
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    Jan 2016
    Car:
    Accord Euro CL9
    We are a little off topic (radiator coolant).

    Liqui Moly ceratec, I'm sure its boron nitride based. I used this on my previous car (lancer), maybe its a little smoother at idle.

    I was buying brake pads from brakes direct and it seems like they sell roil platinum (metal conditioner). You should ask Greg, Matt or Nathan from brakes direct and maybe you could trial one for us. I don't think brakes direct would sell snake oil....
    Last edited by Martin77; 29-12-2016 at 04:29 PM.

  11. #47
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    91 eg5 b16a
    That looks like a treatment that only lasts with the oil.So when you change the oil it's gone.

    Cerma is lifetime

    boron nitrate said good for 20 years.

    Liquid moly says With long-term effect for 50,000 km.

  12. #48
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    Jan 2016
    Car:
    Accord Euro CL9
    From what you are saying cerma is the better product. You may have found a secret to keep your engine running forever.

    Talking about coolant, has anyone used penrite coolant test strips to test the condition of the coolant? I'm thinking that condition based monitoring would be better than routine coolant replacement as we know the current condition of the coolant, which may need replacement sooner than expected.

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