Help with suspension issue diagnosis

**Blaze** · 09-01-2017 09:09 AM

So long story short is that two days ago a green P plater changed lanes on me, scratching the front left bumper bar and forcing me onto the median strip (I was in the right lane and she in the left).

After the incident the car has been acting up and I have no idea what the problem could be. The only description I have at the moment is that when I go over a speed hump the front two corners feel like they are compressing at different rates, as in the left one goes behaves completely different to the right one. The same goes for the back two wheels. When I go over the bumps I don't go over at an angle at all, just straight on.

Does anyone have any idea as to what the cause is? Also, is the car safe to use as a daily driver pending repair?

Thanks heaps guys.

**HaRVey_Heretic** · 09-01-2017 12:57 PM

Sounds like your steering is messed up. Possibly a bent steering arm?
You may be able to fix it by getting a wheel alignment, but if not they will be able to tell you what's required.

It is safe to drive, but be aware that your steering is not going to work as well as it did because the 2 front wheels will be pulling in different directions.
Take it slow around corners especially in the wet.
Also be aware that your tyres will be wearing at a massive rate, so get it sorted ASAP!

Hope that helps

**Blaze** · 09-01-2017 03:32 PM

Thanks for your reply, I'll take it in to bob jane tomorrow morning and see what the results are.

**Shaddow** · 12-01-2017 07:57 PM

After any big hits to the suspension, savage potholes clipping the gutter etc your wheel alignment will always be changed.

**Blaze** · 13-01-2017 12:25 PM

Originally Posted by Shaddow

After any big hits to the suspension, savage potholes clipping the gutter etc your wheel alignment will always be changed.

Confirmed after I took it in. The wheel alignment had to be reset. Thanks for the tip. I checked out the control arms and they were fine, the front left shock absorber is gone but.

**Shaddow** · 13-01-2017 12:33 PM

Originally Posted by Blaze

Confirmed after I took it in. The wheel alignment had to be reset. Thanks for the tip. I checked out the control arms and they were fine, the front left shock absorber is gone but.

That leads to a good question, what does anyone recommend for replacement shocks? My front ones have had a hard life and need to be replaced as well. Any suggestions? I'm not interested in racing suspension, but an upgrade would be nice.

**HaRVey_Heretic** · 09-02-2017 02:54 PM

Doesn't really matter which brand you get as long as they do their job. It's only when you get into racing that you need to start worrying about the various benefits of bound and rebound rates as well as secondary or tertiary reservoirs, foam cells, nitrogen, & blah blah blah.
Just get some good Aussie Monroe shocks and you'll be sweet or perhaps some cheap Chinese ones and be prepared to change them a bit sooner.
Good luck

**EKVTIR-T** · 09-02-2017 03:24 PM

Yep Monroe or KYB will be fine

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KYB-Excel...-/262821426267

**Shaddow** · 12-02-2017 05:36 PM

I don't totally agree Harvey_Heretic but I can understand the thought process. From my point of view good handling isn't just for the race track and average parts leads to average handling. If I'm in a car every day travelling to and from work I don't want average or average life and if I'm changing a part I want to upgrade without going to race parts. I like to upgrade when I replace parts. Plus better parts mean better cornering better braking and better safety.
As a result my 260Z has some very interesting parts in it because I don't just replace the broken part I upgrade. Adjustable radius arms, lightened drive shaft, moved spring mounts, etc. Though the purists give me shit over not having an original Z but every person wants something different from their cars.
So I ask to see what people recommend because a spec sheet can only tell me so much but people's experiences can tell me the other half. Reliability, lies of the specs, difficulties to installed, etc.

**HaRVey_Heretic** · 15-02-2017 11:51 AM

You're right Shaddow - everyone does want something different from their car but your assertion that better parts equal better performance is only relevant if you are racing. You obviously push your Z when you drive and are therefore racing against yourself. If you only want a vehicle that will safely get you from A-B and are only interested in cornering at the speed limit and producing G forces that are comfortable for your passengers, then a $50 shock absorber is exactly as good & as safe as a $500 one.
That being said, I am a Z nut & would love to here more about yours.. I've had a 260 & my brother had a 240 with an L28 intercooled turbo. What've you done to yours?

**Shaddow** · 16-02-2017 03:12 AM

Now you've hit my soft spot with my zed even though I don't agree with your other statement. That aside.

Thread Hijack Warning

The Z. Warning I'm not a purist and my 260Z is a 2+2.
Buick 3800 V6 mounted very low and completely at the back of the engine bay. No power steering no aircon, also shaved and mounted the coil pack almost in the gearbox tunnel to get it out of the way. T5 gearbox for the moment with stock clutch and flywheel. I want a T56. I used an older T5 so I had to convert it from cable to hydraulic clutch just because I hate cable clutch. That said ran the same T5 series in a 400HP '38 Chev with no issues.
A pair of high mounted CT12A Turbos with an intercooler, Xr6 turbo injectors 42 in lb (known as big green injectors), 600 hp fuel pump and Turbosmart rising rate fuel regulator to match the injectors. All the pipe work has been hand built by me and my mate. He is a much better welder than I so I cut and he welded. In the end came up with equal length runners for each header pipe to the turbos. Only 2.5 inch exhaust from the dump for the moment and internal waste gates. Does the job.
Modified ECU from a VP commodore. Got love an ECU with EPROM, 2 Bar MAP sensor. remote mounted oil filter, engine mounted (ie on the actual fuel rail) fuel pressure gauge for tuning, VY Commodore radiator and thermo fans, plus all the other little bits and pieces in a mod of this type like moving everything in the engine bay to a new home, vacuum canister charcoal canister, etc
S12 Hilux calliper front brakes, R31 skyline rear disc brake conversion (before it became popular), have a complete set of Z32 brakes i'm thinking of modifying in. Approved stainless flex lines for the brakes. Running coupe shocks, they have less travel then 2+2 ones and suit lowered springs (1 inch). Adjustable radius arms, urethane steering column coupling, urethane tie rod boots, adjustable sway bar end links most other bushes are replaced stock ones. This is still a street car and too stiff means it will break traction on a road built by NSW government. Just making it sharper and with improved body balance for braking.
Surprisingly still running a stock diff, though custom lightened tailshaft, needed a custom job so why not get a nice light unit.
Near stock interior and near stock gauges.

And I've typed this all at 4am as I can't sleep so hope it makes sense.