Synthetic Oil for Euro

[Omotesando]

[QUOTE=aaronng]Interesting. I just went from 0w-40 to 10w-30 as well and I observed the same thing. Louder engine noise (tapping) with the 10w-30. But it is smoother now with 10w-30.
QUOTE]


Are u still using Castrol or changed to another brand in the 10W-30 grade?
Why or how do u describe (?? ) the 10W-30 being smoother than 0W-40 in the Euro Accord? I am about to try 0W-40 so some feedback would be good!


With the Mobil 1 10W-30 and tapping noise problem, I'm not sure if its because it doesn't produce enough of a protective film or something? But my idea shouldn't make sense either, because Mobil 1 is suppose to be very protective for moving parts and oil analysis shows this to be the case too. So really have no idea. But in certain cars like I said, the Mobil oil gets CONSUMED easily..



As for other person - why do u insist on using 10W-40 (even from 10W-50)? Honda's are suppose to have many internal engine parts and also having revvy engines, and as such u should use the recommended oil range. In fact, it is probably safer to go 'thinner at normal operating temperature oils' such as 5W-30 or 0W-40 as it protects the engine parts when its revving/moving fast. Also gets more power.

People always recommend Honda's not to use too thick an oil. It makes sense scientifically to me (although I haven't verified its truth). BUT.... without having a way to verify either way, the oil grade that the manufacturer recommends and the dealer uses is probably the best - 10W-30. Even if you go on the track... Just change it afterwards.

[Chris_F]

i was recommended to go to the 10w40 grade for track use and thought I'd give it a go for the added protection.

Next time round I think I'll go with something a bit thinner.

[petsfact]

as far as i know, after consulting few car maniac friends, mobil 1 seems to give some tapping noise but if go with the cheaper option like castrol or even some motul should solve the problem....

Still mobil 1 recognized as high quality engine oil in term of protection. I think i will just stick with it for 10k (cost 80 bucks!)

[EuroDude]

80 bucks? Ive seen it like $15 cheaper at K-Mart

[aaronng]

Are u still using Castrol or changed to another brand in the 10W-30 grade?
Why or how do u describe (?? ) the 10W-30 being smoother than 0W-40 in the Euro Accord? I am about to try 0W-40 so some feedback would be good!

I'm still using Castrol Formula R. With the 0w-40, it was nice. I previously had Magnatec 10w-40 in it and when I switched to Formula R, it was a noticeable change. Engine was quieter too (of course, not as quiet as a CRV).

Then, I recently had my 1.5 year service and put in 5w-30 instead. The engine sounds louder now. The sound is coming from either the head or the injector area. But it is louder. It is smoother than 0w-40. The engine also revs harder at 5000-7000rpm.

I had used the 0w-40 for the track. And wow, after the track day, my oil level was still the same, and the colour was the same too, dark brown which turns to a dark golden colour as the oil layer thins out on the dip stick.

With the Mobil 1 10W-30 and tapping noise problem, I'm not sure if its because it doesn't produce enough of a protective film or something? But my idea shouldn't make sense either, because Mobil 1 is suppose to be very protective for moving parts and oil analysis shows this to be the case too. So really have no idea. But in certain cars like I said, the Mobil oil gets CONSUMED easily..

I'll keep this thread updated with my 5w-30 oil consumption. I think though that cars with larger gaps between the piston ring and cylinder require a thicker oil. For example, WRX uses 50 or 60 oil

[aaronng]

as far as i know, after consulting few car maniac friends, mobil 1 seems to give some tapping noise but if go with the cheaper option like castrol or even some motul should solve the problem....

Still mobil 1 recognized as high quality engine oil in term of protection. I think i will just stick with it for 10k (cost 80 bucks!)

The oil brand doesn't matter as much as the viscosity of the oil. If you change your oil every 6 months, then even dino oil is good enough.

[Omotesando]

i was recommended to go to the 10w40 grade for track use and thought I'd give it a go for the added protection.

Next time round I think I'll go with something a bit thinner.

Sorry I didn't know u posted that, I got confused while skip-reading! I thought it was from the person who posted about 10W-50 for some reason whilst reading up other things at same time. U can disregard end part of my previous post!

Anyway, if you go on track - 10W-40 is probably recommended by people as it has better, thicker protection film. Though without Oil Pressure and Oil Temp measurement, also depending on how hard u drive on the track, etc, its hard to say whether 10W-30 or 10W-40 is better, even if ppl commonly suggest thicker viscosity on the track? I mean oil is for lubrication. As long as no metals are touching then the thinnest, more lubed alternative should be best. That's why thinner oil has better fuel economy and more power, less oil pressure. What I'm worried about is, on a Honda engine whether the thicker oil can run around to the smaller parts fast enough to protect them too, at high RPM?

If I go on track - I'll take away the number plate to make sure there is enough cooling to the radiator.

[Chris_F]

Sorry I didn't know u posted that, I got confused while skip-reading! I thought it was from the person who posted about 10W-50 for some reason whilst reading up other things at same time. U can disregard end part of my previous post!

Anyway, if you go on track - 10W-40 is probably recommended by people as it has better, thicker protection film. Though without Oil Pressure and Oil Temp measurement, also depending on how hard u drive on the track, etc, its hard to say whether 10W-30 or 10W-40 is better, even if ppl commonly suggest thicker viscosity on the track? I mean oil is for lubrication. As long as no metals are touching then the thinnest, more lubed alternative should be best. That's why thinner oil has better fuel economy and more power, less oil pressure. What I'm worried about is, on a Honda engine whether the thicker oil can run around to the smaller parts fast enough to protect them too, at high RPM?

If I go on track - I'll take away the number plate to make sure there is enough cooling to the radiator.

ok no worries

I've heard from people running K-series engines on the track (another accord euro and a dc5r) and they never had any problems running this thicker grade of oil. If anything it'd be more suitable for summer use. It's interesting to note that honda recommends 5w30 for Australia which is the grade it also reccomends in countries with a much colder climate. If your out on the track or driving hard on a hot day a slightly thicker oil might be worth it? But like you said, we need to see some data before we know the best grade to run.

[tanalasta]

Reviving an old thread but what's the 'colour' of brand new Mobil 1 gold-bottle 10-30W?

I just want to make sure the dealer didn't switch my bottle for Honda FEO or Shell Helix so if you know the colour of that'll be great. I know my old Motul was a slightly nice light shade of orange when new.

[tron07]

My 10k service is up soon... now deciding which oil to get.... I think synthetic 10-30W should do...

Read the first few page, then decided to jump to the last few page, but still not decided yet.... any recommendation?

Plan to change oil every 10k and roughly every 6-7 months time.

[Adagio]

I have changed over to Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30. I have detected a slight reduction in fuel consumption on the same route and distance, highway cruising at 116kmh. I am now getting down to 7.19L/100 as opposed to 7.9 L/100 when I was using Penrite Sin a thicker oil.
I think we would have to keep our cars for at least 300,000kms to notice any difference between a good 10/30 mineral oil as opposed to a good synthetic. This is just my perception based on our Peugeot which has done 283,000kms on synthetic oil and is showing less wear problems than with other Peugeot owners of the same model and vintage using a good mineral oil.

[aaronng]

My 10k service is up soon... now deciding which oil to get.... I think synthetic 10-30W should do...

Read the first few page, then decided to jump to the last few page, but still not decided yet.... any recommendation?

Plan to change oil every 10k and roughly every 6-7 months time.

For cheap, not many oils beat Castrol Edge 5w-30 ($50). Good if you are changing every 6 months. If you are feeling rich, you can go for the Edge 0w-40 or the Motul 8100 10w-40 (both around $65-70)