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  1. #73
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EK
    Would there be any problem using a K24A1 block from the states? Out of a Jap 2002 CR-V?

  2. #74
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EJ8 Civic Coupe
    Maybe someone who knows can provide a list of k24 blocks from certain cars which can be used, to make it simplier.

  3. #75
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    australia
    Car:
    Honda Lead
    for all the effort is it really worth the extra .400cc as apposed to just using the k20a or k20a2 block?

  4. #76
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EK
    Thats the whole purpose of the exercice though. 400cc's makes a difference, espically when using forced induction.

    Its why people use an RB30 block on a RB26 head.

    K24A1
    - From Honda CR-V
    - Most favourable

    K24A2
    - From Accura TS-X and RSX Type-S
    - Rare and expensive
    - Throttle-by-wire
    - ECU that's not compatible with other K-series-powered vehicles
    - A lot of work for similar results using the K24A1
    - Good for N/A or light boost applications due to slightly higher comp. ratio but extra parts are needed on top of K24A1

    K24A3
    - From Honda Accord
    - EGR valve?


    K24A4
    - From Honda Accord and Honda Element
    - EGR valve?
    Last edited by [200]; 23-01-2007 at 08:18 PM.

  5. #77
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    At home
    Car:
    EG5 > CL9 > RE4
    K24A1 bottom with K20A head is the cheapest way to do this hybrid... but still mounts, harness, loom, ecu, intake, etc. will cost on top...

    K24A1 from CRV best for fully rebuild inside..

    And K24A3 from Accourd Euro... is more expensive for sure...

  6. #78
    mehhh
    Last edited by LUD35; 06-05-2008 at 08:07 PM.

  7. #79
    Quote Originally Posted by HRD2BQT View Post
    I heard about ur little project going on heheheheheh.

    I bliv u referring to DR HONDA's EK. Since when it made 190kw? As far as i know his IM is restricting him badly on pulling to 160kw. If he ever went ahead with his ITB plan then yes 190kw is achievable - Dr Honda is very helpful, he always answers my questions and he sure have extensive knwoledge about hondas.

    basic k24/20 frank is cheap yes but once us start upgrading all the internals thats when it becomes costly and if its not done properly - u cud end up spending more than you can ever imagine. And it's the miscellaneous stuff that makes this swap exxy such as:

    Mounts, Harness, Intake,Headers, Exhaust, Clutch, Fly, ECU & Fuel Lines alone will cost u around 6G's already.

    Anyway, goodluck with ur project and keep us posted.
    Thanks i try to advise people who like to be advised. K Swap is certainly the way to go. 180kw atw is achevable in a N/A setup k with standard IM with the right twisted arse tuner (i hope the new owner has life insurance as going into a lotus elise). Weather its usable power its another story. K Building is fun but also very tricky as you can also go backwards quite easily. There are so many k experts out there that i need not comment further.
    P.S K24A1 stock internalled short motors are junk.
    Last edited by DR HONDA; 06-05-2008 at 08:36 PM.

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