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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    DC5S but not for long...
    ......if u wax ur windows.... wouldnt that make the water hard to wipe (for ur wipers) next tiem it rains?!

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Car:
    EKD
    thats a clean pic there...

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Werribee
    Car:
    1990 LS Integra
    ......if u wax ur windows.... wouldnt that make the water hard to wipe (for ur wipers) next tiem it rains?!
    Surprisingly half the time u wont even need to use them cause the the water will just beed off the window from the wind. Doesn't make it harder for ur wipers, I think it helps them more than anything. Give it a shot, you wont be dissapointed

    Thanks for all your comments guys, I will try to get some pics when I do the car next, unfortunatly i'm workin 6 days a week and 2 jobs so I hardly get time anymore, also the paint job on my car is crap (sun blisters and alot of chips & deep key scratches), Rami let me do ur car, will come up awesome cause it was recently resprayed. Who knows, when i get time again i might even do some $50 half day deals

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    93 B16A DA9 Integra
    Matt... ill gladly let u do me car... i want clay bar n all ;o) but use will all have 2 wait a lil while 2 c the pics etc... itll b worth it hahaha

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    00 S2000 09 Audi S3
    Any tips on how to remove road grime, like tar spots, whats the best product?

  6. #18
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Try bug and tar remover (the citrus kind) first. If it doesn't work, then use a claybar. You can buy claybar sets from Repco for a reasonable price. Use either a slippery quick detailer or a moderately concentrated solution of car wash as a lube.

    After using the bug and tar remover, you should reapply your wax as the bug&tar remover will remove the wax.

    After using clay, use a mild polish such as Meg's step 2 to hide any marring, or if you have a mild physical polish (I have no idea what you can use that is sold in BigW/Supercheap/Repco). After polishing, follow up with your wax.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    00 S2000 09 Audi S3
    Thanks for the info, that is very helpful!

    What wax do you recommend? I use meguairs nxt car wash, and turtle wax platinum series wax, the turtle wax is good, just wondering from your experience if there are any better ones.

  8. #20
    Hey there guys

    Great write up! I just have a quick question.

    When people buff the car and they miss a few spots and you can see bits of white buff stains on thar in a few areas, how do you get rid of them? Any advice?

    Thanks in advance

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    DC5S but not for long...
    i bought some turtle wax silver polish with a chip stick....is it any good/

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Griffith NSW
    Car:
    2005 Accord Euro 6MT
    Excellent post - very helpful and exactly what I was looking for

    *sticks it in the folder labelled "Bible"*


  11. #23
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Okok, now to answer your questions.
    This is Rule #1. DO NOT USE RUBBING COMPOUND.
    This is Rule #2. DO NOT USE RUBBING COMPOUND.

    I'm serious here. Rubbing compound are for pro detailers. We just cannot comprehend how aggressive rubbing compound is. It's like using 2000 grit sandpaper on your paint.

    Ok, now on to the more lighthearted stuff.

    First, identify the reason you are buying polish. Is it to replenish the oils in the paint? Or is it to wear down the paint so that you make the scratches less obvious.
    The first one is called a "Pure Polish" or "Chemical Polish". Example is Meg's Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish. It's purpose is to make your paint look deep and goooooood.

    The second one is more correctly known as a "swirl remover". Usually it's labeled as a polish as well, but I call it an "abrasive polish" to differentiate. Meg's ScratchX is the first step towards swirl removal and hiding.

    Ferrari.: NXT car wash is good! Cleans well, but not as foamy as some people like it. I use it and I prefer my car shampoo to be slippery and cleans well without needing any physical effort. From what I've heard from detailing forums, the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss wax is good. Some of them say it is similar to NXT tech wax, but with less cleaners. Stay away from their rubbing and white polishing compounds. These are meant for single-stage paints, the ones without clearcoats.

    Ghost: I've read user reviews of that polish. The colour stick is pretty much useless on cars with clearcoats. Because your clearcoat is clear, and the stick is an opaque colour. You'll end up with a dull spot where you use it. The stick concept started in 1950s and it didn't sell well then. What is the purpose of buying a polish? Do you want to make your car shine? Or do you want to hide swirls or fix scratches? With regards to the Turtle Wax Silver polish, don't use it yet. Let me know your purpose for the polish first. If you bought it and haven't opened it, at least you can exchange it for a safer and better product.

    Here is the products that I use, application method and purpose for using. All of them listed here have minimal chance at ruining your paint unless you are pressing down hard on the paint. You can just pick them out according to the purpose that you need.

    Washing: NXT Car Shampoo with a lambswool mitt ($16 from Autobarn). Sponge will SCRATCH your paint. So don't use them. For drying, you can use either a chamois, synthetic chamois, microfibre chamois (I use this) or cotton nappies.

    Mild scratch hiding and mild swirl removal: Meg's ScratchX with a Kenko cotton terry applicator pad.

    Paint Cleaning: Meg's Deep Crystal Step 1 Paint Cleaner with a foam pad. Or Klasse All-In-One with a foam pad.

    Polish for oil replenishing: Meg's Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish with a foam pad.

    Wax/sealant: Meg's NXT Tech Wax with a foam pad. You can use Mother's carnauba or even the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss Wax.

    Notes:
    1) Cotton pads are more aggressive than foam pads.
    2) Sponges scratch because they are made from cellulose and is harder than paint.
    3) Always wash your car before applying any paint cleaners, polishes, waxes or sealants. If you don't you'll get marring, which looks like a hologram on your paint.
    4) Apply scratchX in a 5 cent coin size to your pad and rub it on the scratch area until it turns clear and gives you a squeaky sound. Work it in a bit more and then wipe off the residue with a microfiber cloth. You can also use those Kenko Polishing towels, they seem to be less aggressive than terry towels. After wiping, apply another 5 cent coin sized amount to the pad and work at the SAME area again. It will take you 2-4 passes to fix the swirl. If you do only 1 or 2 passes, you'll be hiding the swirls instead of removing. If you don't work it til it squeaks and let it dry before wiping off, you'll get even more swirls that you started with.
    5) Apply your paint cleaner and chemical polish in a moderate amount. Make sure they are non-abrasive or very mildly abrasive. Work it in and leave in for a short while but not until it dries up. When it is still partially wet, wipe it off and buff. Buffing will remove the excess and what's left on the surface will be shiny.
    6) When applying wax, less is better. You can wet your foam pad first and then squeeze all the water out. Then apply your wax to the pad. Then work it in the paint. If you see droplets of water on the paint, work it in until no more water is present. Leave to dry for about 15 minutes before buffing. If you apply too much, then you'll take a very long time to buff and you'll tend to apply more pressure to buff and end up with marring (holograms)
    7) Your shine comes from your surface cleaning and chemical polish. Not the wax. The wax just maintains the shine.
    8) NEVER USE RUBBING COMPOUND.
    Last edited by aaronng; 07-09-2005 at 05:42 PM.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    06 Eurolux SatNav
    okie.... did my first detail today to my MDX... however instead of doing the steps recommended in the write up. i used this glaze called Astro Shield i bought from US.

    and i have to say... geez this thing shines soo bright! very happy with the result but the only down side is that it took me nearly whole day to do the process... (washing, paint cleaning, and 2 coats of Astro Shield)
    will try to post pics up later

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