Is that enough?

**Sitwy** · 21-09-2005 08:31 PM

hi guys, I got a question on my system!
I am using Clarion 200x2 amp. and Cadence 12" sub. ( I think is 400W) the orange one

I bridge 2 channel into one to the sub. but the sound is piece of Sxxt !! have heavy bass but the bass is not solid!!!

what is the efficent way to imporve the quality! change a better amp or smaller sub?

**blubber** · 21-09-2005 09:09 PM

Is there like a lo-pass switch on the amp??

**Sitwy** · 21-09-2005 09:15 PM

it does....I it is on low pass already!

**blubber** · 21-09-2005 09:22 PM

Maybe its not bridged right? Otherwise I reckon get smaller sub better suited... 400W is huge!

**Sitwy** · 21-09-2005 09:51 PM

bridged already! yeah....I think I better change a 10 inch sub. ! so what brand of sub should have more solid sound for my Amp.?
any recommandation?

**blubber** · 21-09-2005 10:23 PM

Kicker I think are a good brand, maybe even Clarion! I think its better to look for these well known brands. Also kenwood; I haven't heard the best reviews from Sony though, everyone says they are cheaply made.

You should check out Autobarn or something cos they generally show you the difference between the amps and you can choose the 'sound' you like!

**micka** · 21-09-2005 11:15 PM

Originally Posted by blubber

You should check out Autobarn or something cos they generally show you the difference between the amps and you can choose the 'sound' you like!

Highly debatable whether amps sound different (this has been done to death in audiophile rings, quick google will bring up tons of fors and againsts so i won't get into it).

That aside, i'd look at installation. Two places in particular, the enclosure for one. Is the enclosure custom built to suit the t/s specs of the sub? or is it a cheap random pre-fab box?
Another key element to achieving "tight" bass is you midbass driver... what front speakers do you have? how are the installed (randomly screwed, or solidly mounted with ample sound deadening?), are they amped?
It will be a lot cheaper to sound deaden and install you front speakers properly than to upgrade you sub amp and still be unhappy with the sound. Front speakers are the most important element, get them spot on and you're well on the way

**Sitwy** · 21-09-2005 11:20 PM

the sub come with factory box!!!
from what u said ...I am quite concern on my front speaker!!! I am just using a 5" 2 way speaker and link with crossover and tweeter!

maybe for the front is too much high frequence!!! and not enough bass!
is there anyway I can upgrade the front speaker to 6" coz 6 " spite is way cheaper ?
except to custom made!!

**micka** · 21-09-2005 11:26 PM

eg civic, you can get 6.5" woofers in no problem with a custom mdf spacer... all you need is a jig saw and a drill, will take about an hour of your time

bit of sound deadener (use flashtac if you want a cheap substitute). You won't need to go crazy with the sound deadener.
Midbass is what gives you the kick, if you just go giving your sub more power it'll just over power the fronts more

this is my door deadened with a 6.5" mid bass.

**Sitwy** · 21-09-2005 11:36 PM

so do you mean I should took out the original speaker holder and put a spacer on it! but after I put the door trim back ! am I still about the put the speaker cover back?

second question ! where can I buy the spacer and flashtac ?
and I think it original have some clear plastic cover it ! so u mean I took those clear plastic off and put the sound deadner on?

**wynode** · 21-09-2005 11:50 PM

Vouch for doing that in my EG too!

**micka** · 21-09-2005 11:56 PM

To make an mdf spacer (to use as a solid mount for a midbass speaker)
1. Go to bunnings, buy some 12mm mdf (about $10), and some form of varnish to seal it (or polyester resin, as long as you make it water tight)
2. Borrow tools if you don't have the right ones

3. Pull off your door trims, remove the speaker, reomve the oem plastic speaker mount.
4. Trace around the oem speaker mount onto a piece of card board. Cut this out with scissors, or stanley knife. On this piece of card, mark a circle for the speaker magnet to go through (either measure the diameter needed for mounting, use the card board template sometimes provided by speaker manufacturers, or you can use the ring that mounnts the speaker grill). when you've measured this and marked the circle on you sillohouet of the oem speaker mount cut this circle out. You should be left with a template for your spacer.
5. Mark the mounting holes on your new spacer template to exactly match the oem spacer (this way you wont have to drill into the door to make new holes)
6. Copy this template onto your mdf
7. cut out your spacers, making sure the speakers will fit in the hole you cut.
8. Stick sound deadener to the door, sealing the service holes nearerst to the speaker (the whole door would be better, but these will do if need be. Seal by sticking deadener from the inside of the door over the service hole, some sealed mdf, 6mm will do, the some deadener over the top making a sandwich of sorts. Make sure everything is very clean or it may not stick well)
9. screw your spacer to the door, connect speaker wires, screw speaker to the spacer. re-attach door trim, put speaker cover back on, and you should be good to go

anything unclear, let me know and i'll ellaborate, typing off the top of my head.
here's a pic of my spacer with no speaker...

flashtac can be bought at any hardware in the roofing section, i'd highly recommend you amp you front speakers.