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  1. #1
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas

    WRENCHIN' WITH TRAV - Whiteline 22mm Rear Swaybar + tiebar install on EG.

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself, nor OzHonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


    Aim: To install a Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear swaybar and lower tie bar to an EG civic.




    Time: 1hr to 2hrs

    Required:
    - Car jack
    - Jack Stands
    - 12mm socket, spanner etc
    - 14mm socket, spanner etc
    - 17mm socket, spanner etc
    - 19mm socket, spanner etc
    - Grease
    - Good old rap CD
    - Helper mate

    Info:
    Ok I actually fitted this to my car ages ago but I have been so busy lately I have not had the chance to complete this writeup. I also rushed this DIY and also had zero help, my mates r poofs and more interested in drinking than wrenchin so I did it by myself and honestly it is very hard to balance 22mm and do up 2 bolts at the same time, so I highly recommend u get a good mate to help you at least hold some shit. So this write up may seem a little vague and skimpy on the pics, my apologies but I do try to do some decent write ups and time is becoming an issue nowadays. Please post questions if u have any. Enough rambling, lets wrench.






    Step 1:
    As always, jack it up. Chock up front wheels, jack up the rear of the car and take the rear wheels off. Also start you rap CD and don’t forget to used proper jacks and jack stands. Get all your parts together and make sure you have got all the stuff you need. Just for the record I had previously an 18mm fixed whiteline sway bar on my car. This is mounted exactly the same as the stock 14mm bar, so this same process is applicable when swapping a stock unit for a 22mm.


    Step 2:
    Now loosen and remove the 14mm bolts that hold the endlinks to the rear LCA(lower control arm). 1 each side.



    Step 3:
    Now loosen and remove the four 12mm(I think) bolt that hold on the stock D bush mounts. In removing these you will be able to remove the sway bar, do this and remove the 14mm end link bolts to be used on the 22mm swaybar.




    Step 4:
    With the sway bar out of the way you can remove the feeble stock mount brackets in favour for the hardcore whiteline ones. Ha! To do this loosen and undo the two 14mm bolts. Then remove the mounts and trash em.





    Step 5:
    BAM! Now we are getting somewhere. Remove the 19mm LCA bolt ready for the hardcore shit.


    gone:



    Step 6:
    You will know what bolts you need for this part just by looking at what you have. This was a point were I took limited pics. Basically fit the mount using the bolt supplier, please ensure that old bolt/nuts are pulled down tight. Repeat this for both sides.





    Step 7:
    OK this is when you need your mate. First get the swaybar dummied up with all bolts, bushes and link on it, not tight just fitted. If your bar is adjustable, which most are youll need to ‘set’ it now. For the thinker option fit the endlink to the hole closest the the centra of the bar. The bar I fitted was 20mm-22mm. I fitted it on as a 22mm coz that’s just the way it should be ha! Also don’t forget to grease all rubbers/bushes, its better to have too much lubrication than not enough if u know what I mean. Now fit it up and tighten the D bush bolts. Note: you will swear allot if you try this yourself, but it can be done, I did it lol. When its all lined up, tight all bolts ending with the 14mm endlink bolts. I suggest double checking all bolts as a precautionary measure, my car is a real kent to jack up so if something is loose, the swaybar will be less effective. When it comes to sussy and brakes, it pays to be anal lol. btw this is when u stick ur tie bar on, simple put the bolt through the left over hole and tighten.






    Step 8:
    Now are ready to feel the stiff. Ha! Put the wheels back on and put it back on the ground. Go for a ‘safe’ drive and get used to the car, trust me it will handle so much differently. Going from an 18mm to 22mm I didn’t thing they would be much of a difference but there was! holy crap what change! If you due for a wheel alignment I suggest you get one, itll make the most of you new swaybar.


    Before:


    After:


    oh wrd!

  2. #2
    that is a shiny rear bumper. + 1 rep for j00

  3. #3
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    thanks bren.
    oh wrd!

  4. #4
    Noob crowd controller Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Car:
    Civic
    Nice looking tie bar Trav .


    For those doing this install somethings to note - ie might be handy.
    When you remove the 19mm bolt (step five), the lca might move out of alignment. This makes it a pain the backside to try and get the new bolt in. I suggest having a second person assist with moving the lca up/back into position to make it easier to get the bolt in.
    See a good post? Give it a PQ point.


    Quote Originally Posted by ludecrs View Post
    They have the depreciation re-sale value of a burnt out and multi-rolled Commodore.

  5. #5
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    true true^^ this is where ur handy mate comes in.
    oh wrd!

  6. #6
    Noob crowd controller Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Car:
    Civic
    Yeah, would have been a pain to do without someone helping to prop things up. I also agree with you - getting the nuts onto the endlink bolts is almost impossible without using a spanner to hold one end and a wrench on the other.
    See a good post? Give it a PQ point.


    Quote Originally Posted by ludecrs View Post
    They have the depreciation re-sale value of a burnt out and multi-rolled Commodore.

  7. #7
    Needs more time... Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Blog Entries
    12
    Nice work Trav!
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    newcastle nsw
    Car:
    dc5r
    Have you taken it for a 'spirited' drive yet? how have the handling traits changed? i.e. more or less understeer/lift off oversteer and responsiveness to change direction

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    newcastle nsw
    Car:
    dc5r
    oh and still a very nice writeup

  10. #10
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    yeah man i have had this for a while but i did go for a decent 'test' day aka j.sport meet lol.


    vs the 18mm one this absolutely ****ing owns!! massive difference, massive. they car handles so much flatter i swear i can go around 40km signed corners at 120 LOL. massive improvment over 18mm and it would be even more noticable over the stock 14mm or for a car with out one at all, holy crap.

    whiteline 22mm is ****
    oh wrd!

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    newcastle nsw
    Car:
    dc5r
    nothin but love for the 22!

    I got rego, tyres n shit in the next month but i might be droppin a pm your way after that, i gotta get me 1 of these

  12. #12
    TRAVDM Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    BNE, Q
    Car:
    Lots of Hondas
    Quote Originally Posted by steve
    nothin but love for the 22!

    I got rego, tyres n shit in the next month but i might be droppin a pm your way after that, i gotta get me 1 of these
    yes most definatetly mate, 22mm is some really good stuff.

    feel the stiff as i say lol
    oh wrd!

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