white line rear sway

[Terry]

just get the reenforcement kit together with your sway bar than everything will be allright

[Domokun SPL]

How exactly should you be concerned about the rear subframe? The only thing that the sway bar does on the rear subframe is hinge/pivot, the real stress is put on the links between the sway bars and the suspension knuckle.

If you are worried about the rear subframe, get a subframe alignment kit from whiteline too. It will help the standard bushes which would have worn over time, helping increase the overall feel.

I would personally always shoot for the adjustable swaybar as you dont know what you will need it for in future. Its also good to have a play around with everything. If you need even more adjustment then the two or three provided holes, you can always get more holes drilled in.

About 20 or 22mm, what is it standard. If its a solid 18mm bar, then the solid 24mm bar would be fine. But if its a 18mm hollow, a 24 solid may be too much therefore a 20 would be best. Need more information on the standard sway bars and feel of the car.

[izzy]

hey guys i just got my 18mm white line sway for my ek1.
woot!!
so yeh tell you guys the feed back after it gets installed on the weekend.

[bennjamin]

How exactly should you be concerned about the rear subframe? The only thing that the sway bar does on the rear subframe is hinge/pivot, the real stress is put on the links between the sway bars and the suspension knuckle.

If you are worried about the rear subframe, get a subframe alignment kit from whiteline too. It will help the standard bushes which would have worn over time, helping increase the overall feel.

I would personally always shoot for the adjustable swaybar as you dont know what you will need it for in future. Its also good to have a play around with everything. If you need even more adjustment then the two or three provided holes, you can always get more holes drilled in.

About 20 or 22mm, what is it standard. If its a solid 18mm bar, then the solid 24mm bar would be fine. But if its a 18mm hollow, a 24 solid may be too much therefore a 20 would be best. Need more information on the standard sway bars and feel of the car.

Stock on some of these cars is NO swaybar.
There is NO way any "aftermarket" swaybar (being larger than stock) will fit safetly with the stock U mounts and bushes - it WILL rip something out in a matter of time.( i used a 18mm replacement where a stock 14mm existed) Even with the "reinforcement" ~ i have heard instances of subframe tear. This is a very real issue in the world which shouldnt be taken lightly . Please reinforce with proper tiebar/mounting plates for anything apart from stock !

[Zdster]

Hate to ask a bad question, but does anyone have any photos of where this sort of tearing has occured? I have never seen pictures of this occuring (although have heard of it before) and was just curious as to what it looked like and the location that it would occur.

[Domokun SPL]

Wow, god a car without swaybars would handle like crap and roll all over the joint.

You can always speak to whiteline and get them to start making thinner bars, they do do a lot of custom work.

[BlitZ]

If you are worried about the rear subframe, get a subframe alignment kit from whiteline too. It will help the standard bushes which would have worn over time, helping increase the overall feel.

I would personally always shoot for the adjustable swaybar as you dont know what you will need it for in future. Its also good to have a play around with everything. If you need even more adjustment then the two or three provided holes, you can always get more holes drilled in.

sorry to be a noobs :

but,
subframe alignment kit to help alignment bushing? huh? what has that got to do with your subframe? and subframe tear outs?

[string]

Domokun SPL: I think you are missing the point. Whatever force is being applied upwards to one end of the swaybar as it's side's suspension compresses is going to go into either a) twisting the swaybar or b) applying that force directly upwards of the subframe where the swaybar mounts are.

If your swaybar has more "twisting" resistance than your subframe has strength, its going to be ripped off, no matter how much "reinforcement" is going on.

All these subframe kits are bull**** if you ask me. They all attach to the subframe! You are just making it so if it has to tear the subframe out, it will rip if out in one huge nasty blow instead of a single tear on one side.

[bennjamin]

All these subframe kits are bull**** if you ask me. They all attach to the subframe! You are just making it so if it has to tear the subframe out, it will rip if out in one huge nasty blow instead of a single tear on one side.

All the "subframe reinforcement" is doing IMO is spreading the force around abit to stop any shearing at normal operation. But ~ give it enough force and ofcourse it will still rip out a large chunk.

But...perhaps thats why some companies use such weak bolts...fail safe prevention ? (that is , bolts are cheaper to replace than torn subframes)

[BlitZ]

If your swaybar has more "twisting" resistance than your subframe has strength, its going to be ripped off, no matter how much "reinforcement" is going on.

All these subframe kits are bull**** if you ask me. They all attach to the subframe! You are just making it so if it has to tear the subframe out, it will rip if out in one huge nasty blow instead of a single tear on one side.

right on bruddA!

I believe some kits are better than others...
a kit that has a solid connection b/w control arm knuckles are better... that would atleast try and spread the torsion to other points....

for ek's.. all kits that utilise a ITR sway bars are better... there mounting points are closer... less torsion on the far corner where ek subframe tear... thats y ASR, beaks and all good ktis use ITR bars for ek...


Please note the problkem with teg and eg are generally with the holes being torn/plucked out. This will however be solved with a whiteline kit..

[Domokun SPL]

Maybe you are all upgrading your swaybar much too high above standard.

As I discussed before, what are the standard swaybars. What thickness, hollow/solid etc.

Id say a mild upgrade (~50% increase in anti-roll) should be sufficient to not damage much.

I guess Honda just doesnt want their cars to handle any better ey?

[BlitZ]

Maybe you are all upgrading your swaybar much too high above standard.

As I discussed before, what are the standard swaybars. What thickness, hollow/solid etc.

Id say a mild upgrade (~50% increase in anti-roll) should be sufficient to not damage much.

I guess Honda just doesnt want their cars to handle any better ey?

Honda std ek4/em1 are 13mm... anything 20mm+ and maybe even 18mm without reinforcements would tear your subframe to pieces.

....

no std honda runs a hollow swaybar.
...