RMS Rating

[Blaze]

vti-2, averson has a point, when you look at some of the speakers that companies offer, I'll use pioneer as an example, it does look a bit suspect when you compare the rms ratings of their high end models compared to the lower priced ones aimed at people who buy with their eyes and not their ears.

EG:
Pioneer's TS-A6991S model 6x9's have an RMS rating of 80W and a Max rating of 460W

The High end 6x9's on the other hand have an RMS of 80W and a max figure of 350W

Both rms and max ratings are stated on both models but despite having an equal RMS value their max rating is different, with the high end model having a lower max rating...it does look like they have just pulled the 460W out of thin air and slapped it onto a speaker so it will sell.

[arverson]

blaze: wasnt implying that he HAS to get a amp or make it his #1 priority, just advising that IF in the future he wants more volume that a amp provides(plus the other benefits), then a amp would be the way to go instead of a HU

vti: yes, brands do use and advertise their max/peak/pmpo to take advantage of noobs and cus of that, they do over-rate these specs on some speakers. i do realise i probably shouldnt have named specific brands but if thats what it takes to better educate, advise & help the general public, then so be it.

how do i work out the RMS rating from a PMPO rated speaker? i dont. cus as ive said, theres no relation or formula thats works. i look for the rms only, i take no consideration about the max/peak rating when buying anything car audio related. if the speaker doesnt show a rms/nominal/continuos rating, then i wouldnt buy it.

the point of that post was meant to b more focused on how that specific formula doesnt work. im not trying to start u vti, im just friendly trying to point out that that formula doesnt work. go check out some speakers, use that specific formula and see if u get the rms stated. till u do, ill stand corrected. but even after u showed me which speakers the formula worked on, i still wouldnt use it

[arverson]

woops blaze, my post above^ was in reply to ur previous post, but thanks for backing me up =]

[Blaze]

No worries, I think the amp is next to be improved but I'm not sure.

[Blaze]

Ok fair enough, this thread was originally started so I could find out a power rating, but I also e-mailed JVC, and they just sent me a reply. You guys are not going to beleive the RMS rating on these speakers.
This is the reply I got:

"Hi and thank you for e-mailing JVC Australia.

The RMS rating on the CS-FS6 is 100W RMS.

Regards"

Now I don't know much about this stuff, but that is a pretty high number considering all other speakers who's ratings are around 40-70 (majority of speakers). Your thoughts?

[Slow96GSR]

It's all relative to the coil and the size. 100 watts is low in comparison to some of the speakers I've used and high to some others.

[Blaze]

Do you think it's an accurate RMS rating then? cuz we are powering them thru the HU and they are being seriously underpowered if they are 100W.

[arverson]

theres plenty of speakers that have the same/higher rms's WITH lower max ratings - focal 165k2p, morel pulse 6, hertz hsk165 to name a few examples - so i wouldnt get caught up worrying if those jvc splits r actually 100rms or not. jvc said so themselves so dont doubt em and definately dont ask urself 'ohh they r 300max, 100rms cant b rite'

in a sense there no such thing as 'seriously' underpowered & 'a little bit' underpowered.
u underpower speakers off a HU but u also underpower ur speakers when u turn it down. as long as u dont push the HUs internal amp to do more than it can handle (ask for more volume than the 15ish rms watts ur frendz 45@4 HU can handle), ur frendz spits will b fine.