RMS Rating

[civicCXI]

Speakers can not be damaged if underpowered. Doesn't really make sense if they did get damaged when a lower power is fed instead of the recommended power.

I disagree, I've seen this happenned. Speakers do get damaged if underpowered. The lower than reccomended power fed into speaker will turn into current and coult burn the speakers.

[mrwillz]

will bro, common places to setup amps (big or small) is under the seats or on the backseat. i say just put it in the back like u have with ur q3000
as for wats sufficient for speaker wiring, 16 gauge
cya at beach 2day, god DAMN its hot !!

yes saw u tehre 2 hrs later

nah wth, sif put in the back, run the wire back thre, then run speaker wire back up lolol. under seat i fink it the place.

thx eleet audio phile lolol.

[mrwillz]

300 PMPO divide by 10 = 30
true rms 30/2 =15rms for splits....
rite..

i was bein sarcastic actually workn it out n gettn 15rms
sounds stupendisly ridiculous... n btw whered chu pull that formula form vti?

[arverson]

nah wth, sif put in the back, run the wire back thre, then run speaker wire back up lolol. under seat i fink it the place.

hahah tru dat, but for ur sake n for others, heres some advantages/disadvantages that come at the top of my head for placing amp under seat/boot:

under seat:
*doesnt take up boot space
*shorter (therefore cheaper) powerwire & RCA cables so there will b less issues with voltage drop
*longer speakerwire: wont cost much more for another 2-3m
*may have less ventilation, not tryna question ur jvc amp but it could have have troubles with venting
*harder to steal
*harder to access tuning controls

boot:
*takes up boot space
*youll have no issues with ventilation - as long as ur jvc amp is a reliable amp
*longer powerwires/RCAs; shorter speakerwire
*can make a display out of it
*can get scratched/knocked by items in boot
*easier to access/adjust

edit: woops cable lengths above is for sub wiring, for speaker in the door wiring:
underseat:
*shorter (therefore cheaper) powerwire & RCA cables so there will b less issues with voltage drop
*SHORTER speakerwire

boot: *longer powerwires/RCAs; LONGER speakerwire

[Blaze]

Meh, with all that info we've decided to give it a go and hook the splits to his HU @ 45W, if this screws them up, then that's bad luck from us, at the moment he can't afford another amp or HU so our hands are tied. Tomorrow (Saturday) we are going to fit them in.....hopefully....and I'll tell you how they go.

[arverson]

no probs. most HUs put out about 20rms. but with his HU being a 45w MAX, itll prob b closer to 15rms. plus the fact the rms of those jvc splits r unknown, id b extra careful u, ur friend or any1 dont pump it up too loud as ull push the internal amp in the HU closer to clipping, meaning increasing the chances of yall screwin up ur splits

=]

[vti-2]

i was bein sarcastic actually workn it out n gettn 15rms
sounds stupendisly ridiculous... n btw whered chu pull that formula form vti?

Well, if they were very cheap splits then its realistic that they might have been roughly 20wrms per channel.

Anyway, the formula is something i've heard a few audio guys tell me about before. Nothing i made up myself. I've never really had to use it because i've always bought top quality products that dont try to cover up their speakers true power rating. All speakers i've bought had an RMS rating.

Anyway, dont take that formula as the one and only. As i said its something i picked up from a few car audio nuts that have used it as a 'general rule of thumb'.

[Blaze]

Just installed the speakers, they aren't bad, but they don't go as loud as we want them too. oh well till we get a new HU or amp my mate is stuck with them.

[arverson]

vti: i know ur just tryna help ppl out BUT told by car audio nuts or not, i still wouldnt use that formula. y?? cus lower end car audio brands like jvc, kenwood, sony & pioneer (no offence to ppl who have them :P) make up/skew most of their max/peak/pmpo ratings to lure in ppl who are new to car audio. thus NO formula will work.

like urself, id also only buy speakers that show their rms ratings but mrwillz is alredy gettin the splits+amp cheap & blazes friend alredy has em so its best to give em more accurate info. by that i mean i dont want ppl using that formula as it simply doesnt work


blaze: if ur friend wants his music louder, then a new HU wont solve that. all speakers sound better off an amp. theres a good reason why amps are bigger than a HU, even tho a HU is expected to have sufficient grunt to run the speakers

without gettin tooo technical, a amp will provide:
. more power = more volume
. more grunt = better bass and clarity, dynamics, etc
. better sound quality & clarity
. inbuilt xover filters: removes the subbass from the signal, therefore leaving the speakers do wat they do best (play only the mids & highs[treble]). speakers arnt designed to play the lows(subbass) loudly as it causes early distortion and adversely affects clarity

i dunno wat ur friend had b4 those jvc splits but if ur friend can compromise on not being able to play his music LOOUUD and is happy with the result then all good. but if not, then when ur friend CAN afford the amp, get one. the benefits will b obvious

[Blaze]

Aversion, my mate had stocks in before the JVC's. He's a beginner when it comes to car modding and he is blind (and deaf) when it comes to his posessions. When he first told me about his "system" (stock speakers, aftermarket HU, amp and sub) he made it sound like he had the best system on the planet, and that's the way he describes his "system" to everyone even tho it's all stock except for the HU, amp and sub. So when it comes down to weather he likes the upgrade or not, I think he's already telling everyone that he has "competition speakers" in his car lol. Oh well, he's a good kid but he hasn't got much money to throw around and he would rather settle for the temporary than waiting and getting the job done properly a bit later.

[vti-2]

vti: i know ur just tryna help ppl out BUT told by car audio nuts or not, i still wouldnt use that formula. y?? cus lower end car audio brands like jvc, kenwood, sony & pioneer (no offence to ppl who have them :P) make up/skew most of their max/peak/pmpo ratings to lure in ppl who are new to car audio. thus NO formula will work.

like urself, id also only buy speakers that show their rms ratings but mrwillz is alredy gettin the splits+amp cheap & blazes friend alredy has em so its best to give em more accurate info. by that i mean i dont want ppl using that formula as it simply doesnt work

You for real? There is no way a company like Sony or Pioneer would make up or 'skew' their speaker ratings just to sell their product. That is total crap. If anything, they use PMPO or 'peak' ratings so that the speakers appear to have a higher rating than other products. You shouldn't just assume that they make up their ratings as you don't know this as a matter of fact. Are you aware there are lawsuits that exist that could be used against you for implying what you said above? Have a nice day.


Having said that i'd be interested to know exactly how you would work out the RMS rating from a PMPO rated speaker.

[vividjazz]

You can't work out RMS from PMPO because they all seem to use different methods to calculate PMPO. They might as well just use ILS (if lightning strikes) cause thats the only way they'll reach those numbers before they disintegrate.