DIY: Gearbox oil/fluid change (b16a1)

**Dray_Templar** · 06-06-2007 10:32 AM

finally did the tranny fluid change, brake pads, oil and oil filter the other week

also got myself one of these

great investment i think.. anyway found out there is an ATF filler bolt/hole for the tranny fluid.. but broke 2 socket extension bars trying to undo it :s so had to fill up throw the dipstick

Just wanna thank you guys again for all your help on the subject.

**efini7** · 02-07-2007 02:45 PM

Just wanted to give kudos for this DIY, i followed it on the weekend to change my gearbox oil using the redline good-stuff on my b16a2 and it all went smoothly and was piss easy because the photos were clear. Thanks again for writing this up!!

**czy_sol87** · 02-07-2007 02:52 PM

Originally Posted by efini7

Just wanted to give kudos for this DIY, i followed it on the weekend to change my gearbox oil using the redline good-stuff on my b16a2 and it all went smoothly and was piss easy because the photos were clear. Thanks again for writing this up!!

how does the gears feel on ur car now, is ur problem solved??

**efini7** · 02-07-2007 03:12 PM

The gears are very smooth, change smooth also, the biggest thing i notice is backing off the accelerator under compression while in gear the car decelerates very smoothly, its hard to explain but its something i noticed.

I didnt get a chance to drive the car properly and for long enough to check if it has fixed the problem completely as i was in a hurry to get somewhere after i did the change but i will update you on that.

**efini7** · 12-07-2007 07:14 PM

yep the gearbox oil change has fixed the problem, redline gear oil rules!

**koldfire** · 08-12-2007 10:57 PM

I changed my '98 ITR LSD gearbox fluid with Motul FF-LSD Type 2 75W90 oil (green color fluid). The gearbox takes approx. 2.1-2.2 liters when the gearbox is at room temperature.

This is a very good guide for people like me with minimal hands-on mechanical experience. Loosening both the nuts are tough and definitely needs a breaker bar.

When old fluid is drained, metallic dust and metal particles are visible at the bottom of the oil tray. I think the old Honda MTF has been in there for about 20,000km. Guess it's all wear and tear.

After changing to fresh Motul oil, 2nd to 3rd gear appears to crunch a lot less. Regular and high-rpm quick gear shifts are alot smoother and more direct. Great stuff...

**Limbo** · 09-12-2007 12:11 PM

i'd recommend that if you have not changed your gear oil for a long time it might be good to flush the gear oil out with something to break it in. The reason is that you gearbox does not have a filtering system and if there are still alot of metal pieces in it do a second gear oil change.

eg. use some cheaper oil drive for about a week and then change it. Hopefully you would have picked up most of the metal bits which cause wear and tear and the occasional crunch.

Afterwards just change the gear oil more frequently. I know that Spoon recommends everytime you change you oil, but i think every second time should be fine for a daily driver