10000 Rpm???

**vtecbrad** · 13-01-2006 11:55 PM

Hey all out there.
Just a few quick questions, i am getting some stage 2 cams, springs, retainers, valves, etc installed very soon
Yes i will be running a new computer, more than likely Hondata
hopefully also running Quad Throttle Bodies from www.efihardware.com.au,
i am just interested to know if i need to change my pistons, rods, crank to run 10000rpm? or if there is anything else to do other than the norm, new oil pump, etc or can i leave the bottom standard for now?
Also if i decided to get a port job done will the valves still fit as they are of standard size i am just a little unsure on this part?
Thanks to all who read and help.
Keep the VTEC, WAY UP THERE!!
vtecbrad

**pillow** · 14-01-2006 12:48 AM

Question is do you need to rev to 10k? You actually going to make power there or is it just for the wank factor? To answer your question, yes I would change the pistons and rods at least and get a new oil pump.

**Slow96GSR** · 14-01-2006 05:33 AM

Ok wow sounds like fun! I can safely rev to 12k rpm but I don't make power up there. You need to do a lot to do that though. The valve train is the hardest part as it has the smallest parts. You will need new rods and a crank but not pistons. Although pistons with either higher or lower compression, depending on what you will or will not do later, would be good to do now. You will also need really good bearings and a really good oil pump. Might even need to go dry sump. Expensive! As for a PnP, Port n Polish, you can do that and not touch the valve seats. As long as the valve and the seats match you are fine. All you really need in a non F.I. motor is a gasket match PnP, it’ll save you some money and you wont make much more power than a full PnP, about 4-5 hp. You can get that with other cheaper mods. I can’t make any suggestions on what to get as I don’t know what is available there but here we would use the Eagle rods and crank, Calico Coatings bearings, JE or CP pistons, Darton Sleeves (MIDs), Crower valve parts, Edelbrock Externals… i.e.: Intake manifold, throttle body, fuel system, lines. Exhaust manifold would most likely be DC Sports unless it was turbo’d then a custom manifold would be built. All custom pipes after the manifold. All in all about 20k USD in work. 12k in parts and a lot of labor.

I would recommend if I were you, and I did this to all my motors, is get Calico Coatings to coat other motor parts, i.e.: Oil shedder (CT-5) in the crank case, crank, rods, bottom of the pistons. CT-3 on the piston skirts. CT-2 on the Cylinder head in the combustion chamber and intake and exhaust ports, also the tops of the pistons. Don’t forget the CT-1 Bearings. Also to help keep the motor clean on the outside, I did a Teflon coating. Dirt and oil slide right off and it polishes right up. They have many colors to choose from! I would say that I paid 1300 USD for ALL the coatings. Shipping costs more for you but I wouldn’t build a motor with out this. You will see HP gains all over the board with it too. The motor will also run cooler which helps a whole lot.

**mrwillz** · 14-01-2006 10:29 AM

that will eat a crapload of petrol

**iamhappy46** · 14-01-2006 11:45 AM

Lightweight forged pistons, new conrods and crank would be mandatory with these engine speeds. Having the crankshaft/rotating mass balanced to perfection, lightweight aftermarket flywheel/clutch assembly(so your stock one does not explode!)

Sure it may end up capable of revving to 10K but there are lots of other things required to get you there.

If your really just after the 'wank factor', have an aftermarket tacho fitted and set tacho up for a 3cyl motor, so that when you motor is rev'ing to 7500rpm, tacho will show 10,000rpm.

**Slow96GSR** · 14-01-2006 12:35 PM

Originally Posted by iamhappy46

If your really just after the 'wank factor', have an aftermarket tacho fitted and set tacho up for a 3cyl motor, so that when you motor is rev'ing to 7500rpm, tacho will show 10,000rpm.

But that's cheating! LOL!

Actually I have a stock flywheel on my car. If you go to light the rotating mass will speed up really fast but slow down faster too. The bigger the mass the harder to spin but the less rpm drop off when shifting. If you are turboing then a mid mass flywheel would be good. If you have enough hp/torque, who cares about 4-6 more pounds of flywheel. Stock teg flywheel is 15lbs. Also the stock ones can be stronger than a lot of the aftermarket flywheels out there. Don't get an aluminum flywheel, I see too many shatter, try for a chromoly flywheel, they are stronger and they are about 9-11 pounds. Good for daily driving and at the track. Now if you are after a track only car get a lighter chromoly flywheel because you'll have bigger brakes and maybe a chute!

**iamhappy46** · 15-01-2006 02:33 PM

Exedy actually make a lightweight chro-moly flywheel in their hyper-single clutch kits.

vtecbrad: Sustainable 10,000rpm is not going to be cheap, expect a couple of thousand $$ in parts alone and labour for preperation, assembly and tuning will run into similiar amounts of money.

**Menthu Rae** · 15-01-2006 03:45 PM

didn't the prev model S2K's have 9000RPM redline? can they rev out to that all the time (i.e. to redline, not past)? what's done to the F20C to make it so good?

**Q_ball** · 15-01-2006 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by mrwillz

that will eat a crapload of petrol

hahaha no shit man!!!
n e focker coulda posted that up la...

**pillow** · 15-01-2006 04:50 PM

Originally Posted by Menthu Rae

didn't the prev model S2K's have 9000RPM redline? can they rev out to that all the time (i.e. to redline, not past)? what's done to the F20C to make it so good?

B16A --> 1989
F20C --> 1999

Hmmm maybe the decade of technology advancements make a bit of a difference

The s2000's have a fuel cut at 9k, so no they don't rev past.

Have a read ---> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F20C_engine

**iamhappy46** · 15-01-2006 05:22 PM

10,000rpm involves your crankshaft rotating 166+ times per second with the piston reaching speeds over 100Km/h halfway up the bore, not to mention it has to come to a stop less than 40mm later, before accelerating again to 100+Km/h on its way down again!

Obviously, lightweight internals/flywheel/crank pulley will cause less stress on your engine at these engine speeds. It is like using your arm to swing a bowling ball around in your right arm compared to doing the same thing with a tennis ball in your left arm. Which arm will be more stressed at the end of the day?