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  1. #25
    TRIPLE OG Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    MEL/JPN
    Car:
    b18c crx/that's
    Quote Originally Posted by twing
    that means head unit needs security ID... and I lost that bloody id.
    call ur local honda dealer with your VIN number mate. they'll do a hondanet check and u'll have it in under 2mins
    www.lozzz.com - car spotting, food and other random crap from Japan

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sunny Coast
    Car:
    boosted dc2...
    just work by the code - if u mod your car and have a stock ecu...pop the hood and take out the 15a PGM-FI main relay fues. wait ten mins, put the fuse back in, start the car and let it idle for 10mins, then slowley work thru the gears and revs.

    Vollah!

  3. #27
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    ブリスベン
    Car:
    ホンダ
    can i do that for my civic as well? any one have write up or pic to follow? i search but nothing comes out -__-"

  4. #28
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sunny Coast
    Car:
    boosted dc2...
    yup, do the same. pop the hood, take out the 'PGM-FI fuse, or just disconnect the black battery terminal (make sure you have ur alarm and stereo worked out for power failure!!!) and your away. u cant go wrong if u pull the PGM-FI fuse. otherwise, just unplug your ecu and leave it for 10 mins, then follow the other steps.

  5. #29
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Car:
    1991 Honda CRX Si
    I just reset my ecu.. unplugged the fuses for 30 minutes.
    plugged it back up let the car idle till it was warm with the bonnet down.

    then took it up and down the street easily reving 1st 2nd and 3rd out..

    results..

    the car runs smoother and is more sharper on acceleration(responsive).
    i reckon this should be done after everytime you change something on the car...

    Good technical help!!!!!

  6. #30
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    ^^
    u cant go wrong if u pull the PGM-FI fuse
    Dont like correcting people but did u read the rest of the thread.
    Pulling just the ecu(PGM-F1)fuse effectively does nothing seeing as ur ignition key disconnects this fuse from the ecu everytime u turn it off.

    You need to pull the BACK-UP fuse for the ECU

    Which is a 7.5A on tegs,associated with ur clock,stereo etc
    A 10A fuse labelled Hazard Lights on a Gen 2 Crx
    The others i dont know,somebody fill in the blanks......

  7. #31
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer
    ^^

    Dont like correcting people but did u read the rest of the thread.
    Pulling just the ecu(PGM-F1)fuse effectively does nothing seeing as ur ignition key disconnects this fuse from the ecu everytime u turn it off.

    You need to pull the BACK-UP fuse for the ECU

    Which is a 7.5A on tegs,associated with ur clock,stereo etc
    A 10A fuse labelled Hazard Lights on a Gen 2 Crx
    The others i dont know,somebody fill in the blanks......
    you have to pull the fues like CRXer said above. 7.5 amp backup fues for 30 seconds

    any longer is overkill

  8. #32
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sunny Coast
    Car:
    boosted dc2...
    amended>>

  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EKONE
    when is the best time to do this. in the morning. midday. evening. or midnite.

  10. #34
    when your hungry!?!?! lol

    Anytime should be fine. It only takes 10 minutes MAX to do.

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EKONE
    but i mean like with respect to weather conditions. would it be better on a cold night or a warm day.

  12. #36
    AHH i see. sorry. lol

    Good point. not sure. I spose the ECU will learn the best AF ratio for a certain temp when it encounters it.

    That might be one for the ECU kings.

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