No offense to those who have done it, but personaly I think it's a big waste of time. You could easily get extra power in other ways. If you really like torque, why are you dealing with such low torque engines as Honda engines anyway? Get a 2JZ-GTE, SR20DET, RB26DETT, 3S-GTE or something with more torque than you can poke a stick at. An extra 139ccs? Not worth it.
EDIT: Oh, unless you are a race builder with lots of money and have restrictions on displacement and various other mods, and have already pushed your B18C as far as it can go. Then it makes sense.
Torino Red '94 DC2 Integra VTi-R :: 96fwkw @7300rpm & 138fwNm @4100rpm :: 0-100 in 7.3 seconds
Forced Induction is always a possibility but .. A couple of things that I think are hard to measure are:
1) Useable power band & Throttle response.
A high rpm motor that has a powerband from say 5500rpm - 9500rpm makes for a very trackable motor (rather than a turbo motor for example, with a powerband from 4000rpm - 6500rpm).
But that is just my preference. I love the instant throttle response of a honda motor and the width of the powerband.
Point taken tho -- I agree it is a waste of money unless a serious inrease in displacement is sought, to which end you are going to lose your ability to rev high as a result.
b20 engine is very fragile but give u xtra torque and if u bore it up to 2.2 it will give u lots of displacment...of coz there are many parts u gt to change 2.but a 2.2l four throttle b20 vtec gives u enough power to take an evo on a straight line
Marcus I think you’re a lil wrong with boring out a b20 block. The b20 use’s an 84mm bore size, the b18 block which is almost the same block use’s a 81mm bore size. Even with sleaving the block with a ductile sleeve the maximum I would ever take a B block is 85mm even then the cylinders walls are almost touching !! This extra 1mm will not give you a extra 200cc displacement !!
Needs stroking to go to 2.2l which reduces (generally and without going into detail) the maximum safe redline due to the piston travelling a greater distance (thus faster travel, more stress on rods etc etc).. I agree with others here. If you are going to spend that sort of money to build an all motor car, ditch the B series (sell it) and build a K20r or K20r/K24 -- Proven performance with minimal mods and maximum reliability. The last thing you want is to rebuild the sucker after 6-12mths.
going b20 or b18 has no differance in cost
if anything the b20 would be cheaper and easyer to find
I paid $200 for my b20 block
I went b20 because it was there and avalable not because I wanted more torque
it is an advantage for me i guess
I had the b18a but blew it to bits
a b18c has less its about 1797cc i think
that makes it 176cc more with the b20
i asked golden eagle about bore sizes a while back as i have golden eagle sleeves in my block- they told me that 86mm was fine for NA, 85mm for boosted applications. i'm running 85mm bores as i might want to boost it a bit later. if i was sure that i'd never want to do anything other than an NA build, i'd deffinately be running an 86mm bore.
changing to a b20 block is cheaper and easier..as in comes from the same b series...but by juz puting a b20 only gives u torque. u have to change alot of stuff as well like pistons, cams and etc if u want power and torque. the b20 is a very fragile and nt as wild as the b18 xtra care has to be taken for high reving...
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