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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Bogan from Logan
    Car:
    EG

    DC2 Central Locking

    Hi

    When I bought my 100% stock DC2 (95 VTi-R) first thing I did was put my new alarm into it. Viper 1000. I also added [remote] central locking (which from what I was told it required a little motor in the doors).

    I'm just wondering, it seems as if my installer is having a really *really* hard time getting the central locking working. The alarm itself is awesome, however, I've had to take the car back 3 times now for them to "fix" the central locking issue. I'm not mentioning any vendor names as typically these guys are great (from what i've heard). The problem is, with the central locking not working, my doors are literally always open.

    The switch on the drivers door controls itself and the passenger door, but to 'flick' the switch it requires alot of force so it seems as if the little motor they put in to do this isn't capable. When I first got the alarm, to flick the switch was able to be done with ease, hence the little motor worked like a charm. However it quickly started requiring alot of force to flick the switch, and at one point wasn't actually able to be flicked to locked.

    I just want to know, is this always a drama on a DC2? Or is my installer just a retard? For a $800 alarm system I'm pretty pissed off considering it's made my car more vunerable. Is the way the installer has done my doors correct? (small motor etc) Do I have another option? I'm slightly annoyed as it means anyone can steal my rather expensive sound system, I can't leave my car anywhere and this whole thing is making me look like a whinger to the installer, but worst of all, my insurance is void at the moment so I'd love to know what the deal is before I ocne again ask the installer wtf is going on

    Cheers
    Matt
    #

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    syd
    Car:
    560hp
    the central locking motor has rods that connect to the original locking rods from the lock.
    if the central locking motor rod is misaligned it will cause it to jam, and will be very difficult to lock and unlock. the dc2s, are very easy, since it's horizontal, and the central locking motor cn just go parrallel to it, i've never had a problem with em before.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    DC5R
    Correct, it sounds like they have put the motor in the wrong spot

    It has happened on one of my previous cars and eventually lead to the motor burning out

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Bogan from Logan
    Car:
    EG
    Quote Originally Posted by Max Power
    Correct, it sounds like they have put the motor in the wrong spot

    It has happened on one of my previous cars and eventually lead to the motor burning out
    Can I ask who you took it to to fix? (PM me if you like) I wouldn't mind getting them to have a look at it to confirm it's done properly, and even fix it if it's not to expensive.
    #

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    syd
    Car:
    560hp
    you can give it a go yourself.
    just open up the door trim.
    and see if everything is in place and straight, sometimes the rod can go wonky sometimes becuase the rods are tight enough, or just bent wrong, not aligned properly, you should be able to do it.
    it's not that hard.

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Westside of Melbourne
    Car:
    s15
    ive had the same problem as SheBangs back then when i bought my car. the locks on the doors required alot of force just to lock and even sometimes wudnt budge. its not the central locking motor, the problem lies within the rods connected to the actualy door lock itself. u have to replace this little metal bridge piece that connects both the central locking rod to the actual door lock rod(just make the rods more stable). the problem was that the stock rods in the door werent stable enough and would just jam every time u try to lock it. its a pretty easy job to do urself. all i did was replace the stock metal bridge with a double bridge for more stability. it worked a treat.

    if u need some instructions dont hesitate to pm me

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Bogan from Logan
    Car:
    EG
    Quote Originally Posted by haiz
    ive had the same problem as SheBangs back then when i bought my car. the locks on the doors required alot of force just to lock and even sometimes wudnt budge. its not the central locking motor, the problem lies within the rods connected to the actualy door lock itself. u have to replace this little metal bridge piece that connects both the central locking rod to the actual door lock rod(just make the rods more stable). the problem was that the stock rods in the door werent stable enough and would just jam every time u try to lock it. its a pretty easy job to do urself. all i did was replace the stock metal bridge with a double bridge for more stability. it worked a treat.

    if u need some instructions dont hesitate to pm me
    Thanks buddy, check PM.

    Oh, and repped
    #

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    DC5R
    I took it to Northfield at Macgregor to get fixed (they didnt fit it) and it only cost 20 or so bucks i think.

    They are awesome there, highly recommend them

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Bogan from Logan
    Car:
    EG
    Oooooooooooooookay. Hopefully this will help some people out, including ones who don't have central locking.

    I ripped her all apart that to hai's advice (and help). The actually install was really, really good. It had nothing to do with the door skin at all. The actual switch was hard to flick on/off, and with the door panel off it was easier to troubleshoot.

    I removed the connection to the actuator (motor) so the car was back to being non-central locking, and I still had the inability to to lock/unlock the car. Which meant it was the car's stock assembly which was causing the stress.

    Long story short, it needed WD40 (lol). 100% perfect now.

    So...anyone finding there lock inside the car doesnt freely want to flick on/off - give it a dose of WD40. Unsure of whether you need to do the inside (behind the skin) and the outter visible part, but I did both

    Matt
    #

  10. #10
    yeah happened to my DC2 and still does....when i alarm it, the passenger side doesnt lock, so i unlcok the car and lock it just using the key until it works, Then when i try alarming it and finally it locks when i activate the alarm....dunno....mayb its just a DC2 thing lolz

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Westside of Melbourne
    Car:
    s15
    WD40 should only be used temporarily. the WD40 gets rid of all the build up of dust and grime in the lock...in the end its gonna come back. might not be soon but it will come back

  12. #12
    Yeah i've got this same problem.

    One time it fixed itself but now it's stuffed and i have to keep using the key to lock the doors. The remote unlocks the doors ok but locking it, it just seems like it doesn't have enough power to lock.

    I'll try the wd40 trick, been putting this off for over 3 months to fix it cos i thought i may stuff it up more.

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