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  1. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by T-onedc2
    ginganggooly please back up claims like those with proof.
    well mate, if you think i'm going to dig up through my old dyno sheets to prove myself correct for the sake of your curiosity, you are very sadly mistaken. how about you try testing it yourself

    peace out.

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    JZX100 S2 Chaser, DC4, S5
    hell of a lot easier to mod the stock box, i have a 100mm hole cut into the bottom of the box, removed the bits of crap and fitted a bit of 100mm induction (flexi pipe, whatever!) pipe. front bar to a/box, with a highflow filter. simple.

  3. #15
    s tune Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    ADL
    Car:
    99 DC2 sold :(
    Quote Originally Posted by ginganggooly
    well mate, if you think i'm going to dig up through my old dyno sheets to prove myself correct for the sake of your curiosity, you are very sadly mistaken. how about you try testing it yourself

    peace out.
    you only really needed to add what you did in your previous post as a brief explanation of how you came to that conclusion and no one would doubt the results. Thanks for getting back to us.
    Cheers

  4. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by T-onedc2
    you only really needed to add what you did in your previous post as a brief explanation of how you came to that conclusion and no one would doubt the results. Thanks for getting back to us.
    Cheers
    don't mind me, i'm growing into a cranky old man

  5. #17
    yeah, it is weird how gingangooly's experience is complete opposite of mine...

    i was dynoing at Toda and usign a stock VTiR air pipe, stock Airbox and removed resonator chamber and K&N filter,

    and on the dyno gained 5kW peak power simply by removing the airbox lid...

    ie went from 120 to 125kW...

    this is on a B20VTEC btw...

  6. #18
    very strange...

    a few differences though- my airbox had a fat 4" bit of pvc pipe rammed up the bottom of it, and i'd used all purpose filler to taper the inside of the box to what i thought looked a better shape. the pickup of the duct was from behind the splash guard at the front of the car.

    i dropped from 115kw to 109 by removing the lid.


    running a k&n filter too.

  7. #19
    the bottom of my box was left open - ie not restricted

    so it was basically a "pod on a stick" style...

    BTW - my car was tuned with the lid on, as it was too loud to leave the lid off the airbox and *heatsoak* would be worse....

  8. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by tinkerbell
    the bottom of my box was left open - ie not restricted

    so it was basically a "pod on a stick" style...

    BTW - my car was tuned with the lid on, as it was too loud to leave the lid off the airbox and *heatsoak* would be worse....
    bottom left open as in, the bottom half of the enclosure wasn't on?
    or the factory ducting into it was removed?

  9. #21
    the bottom half of the enclosure was the only thing there, all other piping and parts were removed.

    i.e it was only sitting in the ACL Housing:


  10. #22
    interesting... i would have thought that the two motors would have near identical induction requirements.

  11. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by ginganggooly
    interesting... i would have thought that the two motors would have near identical induction requirements.
    they probably do...

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