2006 Civic sound dampening project

[chylld]

rattling is produced by 2 parts hitting each other. while dynamat may help reduce the vibration of the panels enough to prevent parts hitting each other, you would have much more success actually tracking down which parts are causing the rattle and fixing the problem there. the purpose of dynamat is to reduce the resonance sound of the panels - another acoustic problem altogether

[Ru$kI]

cool....I've tried doing that initially when i did some DIY sound deadening by filling the empty space b/w the plastic shelf and the metal under neath with some towels to eliminate potential contact and to reduce the amount of space the sound waves have to vibrate inside.

With the doors its very much the same as the rear shelf...so Dynamat should do wonders there.

With the boot however...it seems that the whole boot lid vibrates, and no matter to which point around it I apply pressure...the vibration still continues the same. The same seems to happen for the sides of the boot also

Any suggestions on which places in the boot to tackle first?? I.e. the places that may most likely contribute to the rattle

[chylld]

without knowing specifically where the rattle is, it's very hard to say. most likely however it's coming from either the left side of the boot where the wiring loom + boot release cable is, or the cables inside the boot lid for the tail lights. i'd check both areas and wrap some foam tape around anything that's loose enough to knock around.

for dynamatting, i recommend hitting the rear 3qtr panels. once you've removed the side trim in the boot, you'll easily be able to see these huge flat areas that resonate like crazy. after that, do the rear wheel housings and the flat areas under the floor. you could also do the spare wheel well, but usually you have a great big tyre bolted down onto it so i don't think it's a problem to start with.

[chylld]

Nothing like being greeted in the morning by 2 protruding pieces of supposedly waterproof high-strength duct tape showing at the bottom of the window:



essentially, weeks before i had covered my door outer skins with ensolite foam, "securing" them in place using a combination of double-sided tape and waterproof duct tape. what has happened is that both tapes have failed (in all 4 doors) and in the case of the left rear door (pictured above) the tape has actually caught onto the window while it was wound down and then popped up as i wound the window back up, and promptly stuck itself to the bottom edge exterior window seal!!

i decided to fix them all today and started at the rear right door, and this is what i found after taking off the access hole covers:



... and i was wondering why some of the power windows were feeling a bit more sluggish than others!

i removed the foam from inside the door and used one of the layers as a weatherseal, this time adhering it in place on the inner skin using proper foam spray adhesive. this stuff was literally foam-tearingly strong after only ~10 minutes of setting.



the ensolite in the front right door had similarly fallen over itself:



but i fixed it the same way, as with the left doors:





the left rear door interestingly showed that i had 'abused' 2 of the clips, pictured here with a box of spares i got at repco (which are a perfect fit replacement, btw):



as you can judge by the pictures, i've left my access hole covers totally off as i believed that, being based on very resonant 0.6mm aluminium sheeting in the first place, they were contributing to the road noise rather than countering it - a test drive after i finished up today confirmed that in fact they weren't helping at all! (SQ seems unaffected as well.)

EDIT: after almost 3 hours on the road today, i'd like to add that while the access hole covers weren't helping reduce noise, they weren't really adding noise either. my car seems to have recently developed a resonance pitch somewhere around 270-280hz, at the moment it's not obvious where it's coming from but it was there both before and after the access hole covers were removed, so it's not them.

[VTECACCORD]

can you fix the pics ?

[chylld]

can you fix the pics ?

hmm are the pics not working?? that's odd... i can see them from here...
anyone else having problems with pics?

[dannybubu]

i've got splits which are going to be installed soon....anyone got any ideas where they're going to go? and also...anyone know what the 2 speaker grill thingos on the very corners of ur dash board are??

[chylld]

the woofers can go in the doors where the stock ones are, and the tweeters would go under those speaker grills at the corners of the dash. in the american models, that's where the stock tweeters are.

[aussiebuddha]

the woofers can go in the doors where the stock ones are, and the tweeters would go under those speaker grills at the corners of the dash. in the american models, that's where the stock tweeters are.

Yeah, I've got a pair of Jaycar REsponse Kevlar splits, and I installed the tweeters there.
Tweeters were a bit bigger than the size of the stocks, but I pushed them in a bit and glued them. they're purrrfect ;-)

[VTECACCORD]

A lot of work has gone into that,

But from what I can see I really think you should have used some 3mm mdf on the access holes taped in using the black fabric tape, and then a layer of dynamat on top of that. BTW Paint the MDF to seal it stopping it from retaining moisture, the cheap black spray paint at bunning soaks in nicely.

Just another suggestion, I think the MDF is about 6 bucks a sheet, and if you need a jig saw you can borrow mine, i live close to the hills district, or you can pic one up at bunnings for 30 bucks

[chylld]

But from what I can see I really think you should have used some 3mm mdf on the access holes taped in using the black fabric tape, and then a layer of dynamat on top of that. BTW Paint the MDF to seal it stopping it from retaining moisture, the cheap black spray paint at bunning soaks in nicely.

Just another suggestion, I think the MDF is about 6 bucks a sheet, and if you need a jig saw you can borrow mine, i live close to the hills district, or you can pic one up at bunnings for 30 bucks

i originally planned to cover the access holes with 6mm MDF, however the access holes aren't flat so i figured it would have been much more trouble than it was worth. hence i tried the aluminium + dynamat + ensolite combo which was moldable, but didn't really make much of a difference.

in the near future however, i plan on filling the plastic door trim with a sound-absorbent material that will lightly press against the ensolite i currently have over the access holes - i think this should be enough, without hampering access to the inside of the door too much should the need arise.

also, the cloth tape (which i also bought at bunnings) simply does not hold up inside the door consistently.

that said, i am still open to suggestions on how to properly seal those large and uneven access holes!