Reliability of modded all motor

[shebangs]

Obviously when you do basic i/h/e/ecu, reliability stays pretty much the same and we all know how solid our Honda engines are.

However, does reliability change when you've done more than this? I'm talking aftermarket (decent brands (!!), toda,skunk2,mugen,spoon etc)) stuff such as intake/header/exhaust/ecu/valve/valve springs/flywheel/clutch/cams/retainers/trottle bottle. Depending on money I'll contemplate doing high comp pistons, rods and pins. This is on a b18c. Target kw is 150fwkw.

I dont mean drivability, i mean specifically reliability. Drivability will be dependant on my choice of clutch and cams. After all of the above is done would I be silly to assume my car could still be a daily driver?

Thanks

[EGB16A]

Obviously when you do basic i/h/e/ecu, reliability stays pretty much the same and we all know how solid our Honda engines are.

However, does reliability change when you've done more than this? I'm talking aftermarket (decent brands (!!), toda,skunk2,mugen,spoon etc)) stuff such as intake/header/exhaust/ecu/valve/valve springs/flywheel/clutch/cams/retainers/trottle bottle. Depending on money I'll contemplate doing high comp pistons, rods and pins. This is on a b18c. Target kw is 150fwkw.

I dont mean drivability, i mean specifically reliability. Drivability will be dependant on my choice of clutch and cams. After all of the above is done would I be silly to assume my car could still be a daily driver?

Thanks

If built correctly, there shouldn't be an issue. The car will still be running hard long after you've sold it (assuming you'll sell it one day )

your car will be as reliable as your engine builder/ tuner IMO

[NogZ]

as egb16a said, itll depend on your engine builder

especially since honda engines are built with high precision from the factory (thats where part of the reliability would come from), your engine builder should be able to rebuild the engine with the new aftermarket parts within spec.

Even better is if your engine builder is in the loop with modifying hondas.

[tRipitaka]

150fwkw is a pretty high goal for a b18c2, unless you're made of money..
seeing as a b18cR with an extreme budget can manage ~ 146-154kw

and that's with:

#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Consider super single or twin plate carbon)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Type R gearbox & Lower final drive
#4 – Intake (CAI – Eg: Injen / Mugen)
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam pulleys/ Hi power timing belt / oil pump gear / fuel pump / Forged pistons 12.5+:1 / TODA sleaved engine block / lightweight aftermarket rods / fuel pressure regulator / injectors / ECU / dyno tuning.
Power output: 146~154kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

(TODA internals i might add)

[shebangs]

150fwkw is a pretty high goal for a b18c2, unless you're made of money..
seeing as a b18cR with an extreme budget can manage ~ 146-154kw

WTF? Your quote is everything I plan on doing, but I'm doing more. Read the first post Hence how i got the magical 150 number.

[tRipitaka]

i guess you really are made of money..

in that case.. continue..

but do keep in mind, the above figures are for b18cR not b18c2..

[barefootbonzai]

I'm not sure if the first 2 answers you got were from experince or not. But I was under the impression that any B18 engine making that sort of power either it be NA or boost is bound to have issue much quicker than a stock engine. Much more error prone.

[saxman]

just remember, stress on the engine increases exponentially as revs go up. Generally to make those power numbers, you're going to have to rev quite a bit higher. a higher reving n/a motor is going to be much less reliable than a lower reving turbo motor making the same hp and a lot more torque.

[EGB16A]

just remember, stress on the engine increases exponentially as revs go up. Generally to make those power numbers, you're going to have to rev quite a bit higher. a higher reving n/a motor is going to be much less reliable than a lower reving turbo motor making the same hp and a lot more torque.

but if components are upgraded accordingly, then there shuldn't be an issue. It also depends on how the car is driven too. If a car is constantly being pushed to its limits, then yeah expect something to go bang eventually. But if this car is driven regularly day in day out, and put through its paces every so often, then i say it will hold up as good as stock.

I'm guessing that this will be daily driven, and see higher rpms every now and again?

[crx51]

im with barefootbonzai on this. Yes it comes down to the engine builder and quality of components but if you are pushing that sort of power through a 1.8l engine you will certainly have a shorter lifespan. I mean look at race engines! They rebuild a supertourer every few thousand kilometres, a v8 supercar simliarly, an f1 even more and a top fuel dragster every few kilometres. And really they do a better job (read more expensive) than any of us could ever do. Supertourer engines are probably 100k to buy or thereabouts? I mean your output is going to be over 100kw per litre, thats more power per litre than a suzuki hayabusa per litre. As sax said also revs increase stress on the engine exponentially and power is due to torque and revs, with a 1.8l engine you are capped at just over 180nm so to get power you NEED revs, thats what your mods will be doing. I say go for it and get it done right and you will have a ''reasonably'' reliable engine but it will not be lasting 200000ks before requiring a rebuild - id put money on that.

[Weq]

Keep the rev's to a reasonable value, and run as much compression as u can. That would be my forumla to a fast reliable NA car. Dont expect a 10k+rpm motor to spin for years. 150kw is pushing hard, 130kw would be a more 'reliable' goal IMO.

[tRipitaka]

Just for the record, this is kinda general guide as to what you'd need make this kinda power

Maximum effort (extreeme budget) – Change to B18CR engine. (Std intake manifold)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Consider super single or twin plate carbon)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Type R gearbox & Lower final drive
#4 – Intake (CAI – Eg: Injen / Mugen)
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam pulleys/ Hi power timing belt / oil pump gear / fuel pump / Forged pistons 12.5+:1 / TODA sleaved engine block / lightweight aftermarket rods / fuel pressure regulator / injectors / ECU / dyno tuning.
Power output: 146~154kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

already posted that above ^^^^^^