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Originally Posted by todaek9
for a TODA C to work, compression must be considered...above 12:1 at least. there is too much hassle if you are going for TODA C if you don't have a high budget.
and also, what kinda power are you expecting, mind telling????
i'd only got 132kw @ wheel on Optimax, and 145kw @ wheel with race fuel (ELF) on my previous car at 12.8:1 comp., and that my friend, is dissapointing...Plus, i've change everything + head work + 40hr on Dyno..
if you are expecting alot from just std bottom by using TODA C with least mods and no work done to the head, may be you should consider TODA B as a better alternative, or JUN Stage 3, or Spoon cams.
Just wondering is that a B16A + Toda C = 132kw on optimax?
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nope...that is wrong setup + bad tuner + bad workmanship = 132kw atw.
hahaha..
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Originally Posted by TODA AU
Regarding cam intallation / timing.
If you fit them per the cam card & have a LCA of 102.5deg (Spec B) or 105deg (Spec C) this is a good starting point depending on combination.
Moreover, it's probably correct & won't need to be touched on the dyno if you're using all TODA parts.
That said, many times I've had to re-time suposedly correctly timed camshafts.
If you've got a TDC guage & a dial indicator, check that you're acheiving 1mm of valve lift @ TDC on both inlet & exhaust on the low cam.
Anticlockwise engine rotation must be observed as reverse operation will give a fasle reading due to slack on the tensioner side.
Hope that helps.
Adrian
so the cam card specify LCA of 102.5deg (Spec B) and 105deg (Spec C)?
cause i have Spec B in the b18cR and idle is set at @1000~1100rpm (powerFC) by the dealer here in WA. sometime the idle would fluctuate (+/-200rpm) like its choking for air.
Edit: have Toda valve spring, cam gear and header, not sure with piston and head gasket thickness.
Last edited by gambate; 08-09-2006 at 12:28 AM.
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TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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Originally Posted by gambate
so the cam card specify LCA of 102.5deg (Spec B) and 105deg (Spec C)?
cause i have Spec B in the b18cR and idle is set at @1000~1100rpm (powerFC) by the dealer here in WA. sometime the idle would fluctuate (+/-200rpm) like its choking for air.
Edit: have Toda valve spring, cam gear and header, not sure with piston and head gasket thickness.
Sounds like the initialisation on the powerfc hasn't done properly
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Originally Posted by todaek9
nope...that is wrong setup + bad tuner + bad workmanship = 132kw atw.
hahaha..
Geez... i wish i have 132kw..... wonder what it feels like
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Originally Posted by spoondc2
Sounds like the initialisation on the powerfc hasn't done properly
.... and what process is that? elaborate plz.... thanks
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ive got a b16a then...and would like to keep bottom end stock...what cams should i get? toda b or c or jun 2 or 3 or 4? i dont really know the diff....what camns would giv the most power if i would like to keep my b16a bottom end stock and juz mod the top head?
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If you're going to keep the bottom end stock,
Going too big in the cam is a waste of time.
You'll get best power & all round drivability from a set of Spec A camshafts.
The same can be said for near std DC2-R's (I/H/E)
TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au
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Originally Posted by gambate
.... and what process is that? elaborate plz.... thanks
Hmm.. i don't have the power fc manual here but it's in there, you may go to the apexi usa site to dl the manual.
Anyway there is something that i dunno. which is the instructions for initialisation are different between the jap manual and eng manual
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is it cheaper to do high comp and cams on b16a or do the stroker kit (value for money)
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Originally Posted by spoondc2
Geez... i wish i have 132kw..... wonder what it feels like
I can tell you how it feels...The Fuel drops down as quick as your RPM pops up...haha...
But too bad it was not done nicely, sad to say...One piece of advice, if you want to throw big money in your engine, better go to someone who does race engine all their life, or at least done a DRAG/Track car alot of times...
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