whats the best choice in a k24a/k20a?

[yourfather]

So you think that 223 nm for a K24A compared to 192nm for a K20A2 is really work it. you're paying how much for a head for 20nm of torque?

[aaronng]

So you think that 223 nm for a K24A compared to 192nm for a K20A2 is really work it. you're paying how much for a head for 20nm of torque?

K20a's head on a k24a is not that worth it if you are just doing the swap for high end RPM torque. You might as well just swap in k20a cams. The thing is, when you start using aftermarket cams, you need an aftermarket ECU to tune. There is NO aftermarket ECU for the k24a2/3 except for the Motec (which is bloody expensive). That's why they use the k20a head.

BTW, with just a head swap, the k24a2's safe redline is still 7300rpm. Fuel cutoff is now the k20a's 8200rpm, but I don't think that the k24a2 can survive repeated RPM above 7500rpm. If you watch vids of people trying out the hondata reflash, the engine starts to sound weird at 7500rpm.

[yourfather]

Well, contrary to what you are saying, Paul1985 says that it's why you'd do it.

You'd get the torque of a K24 and the revs of a K20.... Seems pretty simplistic to me.

Why not just have a K20A and stroke it, like previously said. You've already got all the aftermarket support you need.

[HRD2BQT]

If you already have and existing K20A2 motor and have all the money to burn, the yeah - go the STROKER KIT way (expect to be $5-7G's poorer)

If starting from scratch - to buy a K20A2 half-cut, ur looking at paying around $6-7G's + all other expenses to do the swap - thats easy 10G's+ all up.

If you prefer it the hard way and want to save $$$. Go the K24/K20 Frank way. YOu gotta purchase all your parts separately and put them all together - TIME CONSUMING and takes a lot of patience. Just to giv u rough guage how much to do this:
K24 Bare Block - $800-1500
K20A2 Completed Head - $1000-2000
6 Speed LSD Box - $2000-2500
5 Speed Base DC5 - $800-1500
+ all the necessary parts (mounts, harness, ecu etc)
This can be done for the same price of a normal K20A2 swap - but you get more hp per $$$ and a more torquey motor that can be safely rev'd up to 8000 with the right piston / rod combo.

It all comes down as to how much you want to spend and how far you want to go and what u want to achieve.

Do you prefer Torque or HP? - never ending debate! hahahhahaha

For more infos about K series, go visit the ff:
www.k20a.org
www.k-series.com
www.clubrsx.com

plenty of technical information awaits you

Eoh

[HRD2BQT]

Well, contrary to what you are saying, Paul1985 says that it's why you'd do it.

You'd get the torque of a K24 and the revs of a K20.... Seems pretty simplistic to me.

Why not just have a K20A and stroke it, like previously said. You've already got all the aftermarket support you need.

In addition to this, just bcoz u mate a K20A2 on a K24 block it doesn't necessarily mean you can rev safely as high as a normal K20A2 - this is not always the case specialy for a stock bottom end (not design for high RPM). You need to build the bottom end with Forged Piston & Lighweight Rod if u intend to rev up to 8000RPM+

[aaronng]

In addition to this, just bcoz u mate a K20A2 on a K24 block it doesn't necessarily mean you can rev safely as high as a normal K20A2 - this is not always the case specialy for a stock bottom end (not design for high RPM). You need to build the bottom end with Forged Piston & Lighweight Rod if u intend to rev up to 8000RPM+

True. If the builder is keeping the 99mm stroke, the bottom end still cannot withstand 8000rpm even with forged piston and lightweight rods. Even the SCCA TSX which has a built bottom end can only rev up to 7800rpm.

[Paul1985]

If you already have and existing K20A2 motor and have all the money to burn, the yeah - go the STROKER KIT way (expect to be $5-7G's poorer)

If starting from scratch - to buy a K20A2 half-cut, ur looking at paying around $6-7G's + all other expenses to do the swap - thats easy 10G's+ all up.

If you prefer it the hard way and want to save $$$. Go the K24/K20 Frank way. YOu gotta purchase all your parts separately and put them all together - TIME CONSUMING and takes a lot of patience. Just to giv u rough guage how much to do this:
K24 Bare Block - $800-1500
K20A2 Completed Head - $1000-2000
6 Speed LSD Box - $2000-2500
5 Speed Base DC5 - $800-1500
+ all the necessary parts (mounts, harness, ecu etc)
This can be done for the same price of a normal K20A2 swap - but you get more hp per $$$ and a more torquey motor that can be safely rev'd up to 8000 with the right piston / rod combo.

It all comes down as to how much you want to spend and how far you want to go and what u want to achieve.

Do you prefer Torque or HP? - never ending debate! hahahhahaha

For more infos about K series, go visit the ff:
www.k20a.org
www.k-series.com
www.clubrsx.com

plenty of technical information awaits you

Eoh

Spot on.
+rep for you.

[barefootbonzai]

HRD2BQT - Probably the only guy in this thread to be acutally doin it, so probably a good idea for the e-mech's to listern to the man.

PS. didn't realise you where Eoh, still waiting for updates man. It's dang by the way.

[HRD2BQT]

Hey Dang, yeah it's me hahahahah......updates will be up hopefully in a week or so - just waiting for the rod to arrive then the build begins

thanks for d + rep guys.

[barefootbonzai]

Sweet sounds good. We just waiting on fuel lines and driveshafts, hopefully finish soon.

[jimmeh]

True. If the builder is keeping the 99mm stroke, the bottom end still cannot withstand 8000rpm even with forged piston and lightweight rods. Even the SCCA TSX which has a built bottom end can only rev up to 7800rpm.

im gonna disagree with you on that. i just bought a ordered a set of high comp pistons for a k24/k20 and the customer said dyno dave told him itll be safe to take her to 9000rpm

[Tony]

Hi, just want to correct a few things..

1/ You don't neccessary need to swap the K24 head to k20 to eliminate drive by wire, you can use a K20 intake manifold/TB and weld/plug the intake manifold coolant passage on the K24 head. If you are using a CRV K24 head, you don't even need to weld/plug the coolant passage. or you can simply get an adapter plate for K20A/A2 throttle bodies.

2/ K20A cams won't work on K24A1/A3/A4 engines unless you swap the rocker arm setup. The spring, spring seat and retainer size are different too.

3/ 99mm stroke can rev to 8000rpm all day long on properly built engines. There's no sign of premature wear on the rod bearings after 200 passes.