Who needs JDM when you've got...

[Slow96GSR]

Ya, it's like the only company I work with that I don't get dealer cost with. They like to keep costs low for everyone. It's hard to get a special discount. Like 90% of the race teams pay retail so since he was building motors, and still is, they gave him discounts due to the amount of parts and orders he put in.

[jpg29]

I'll be glued to this thread with great interest, as I'm new to Honda and have just got hold of a B16a civic EK hatch and feel the need to do some engine work.
yes I am 'noob' and apologies for any unwarranted queries that i may have and I will not post any 'bullshit', I will be very serious and proper, I have still to get used to this forums' etiquette.

[honda_b_blastn]

Goodluck with it all you cracker..your going to be a busy man now! trying to juggle this project along with your new pride and joy..baby evan..

[pwr2w8]

pro ecu good luck with the build, also what C/R pistons you got.

Im also in the build of a B16/B20 and ill be running 12.5:1 pistons with I beam rods.
Also i believe your in SA, there is a wizard there that PNP heads, he is as good as elias alaniz in the US if not better. i have seen a B16A head done that flow's 315cfm @ .500 valve lift

[Slow96GSR]

I know you know this ProECU but I wanted to share some of what we talked about before the "noobs" start asking "wtf?". If you are going to mic everything make sure you use the right size tools or measuring equipment. Hondas use GREEN Plastigage as the clearances are closer then a big block chevy. Red is too big and will give you false readings. There are many sizes so make sure you read the manual before investing in the wrong size tooling.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Tools/plastigage.htm

All you need at any one time, and this is a little much:



Place it on the mains and rods you wish to measure like this:






Now you can use the paper cover to measure the squashed Plastigage:


Yes I stole these pics off some one elses site! I didn't have any materials here to use!!

[Edgeauto]

if you want once you have worked out what colour bearing you need PM me i and will see what i can get them for cuase RRP is something like $40 for a half shell

[ProECU]

if you want once you have worked out what colour bearing you need PM me i and will see what i can get them for cuase RRP is something like $40 for a half shell

Thanks!!

[TODA AU]

I hope it works out well for you.

Regarding machining,
Be sure to use a dummy head & caps fitted / torqued when it’s bored & honed. (Plateau hone)
(Sorry… I can’t offer advice on where to go as you’re in Adelaide – maybe Allen’s?)

Ps: Don’t chamfer the top of the bore either. (Some people do this)
Though it may aid in assembly, it will also reduce detonation resistance.
Keep it square & just take the sharp edge off with wet & dry (800) – do the same at the bottom of the bore also.

Cheers

Adrian

[Slow96GSR]

Any new pics or details?

[TODA AU]

LOL… we agree on something… Time for a beer eh?

Regarding torque plate,
We always use a torque plate when boring & honing any engine,
Rather than just being good practice to follow there is method to the madness.
Though the bores in a HONDA B-series engine block are floating,
they can distort a considerable amount when the main caps are fitted & torqued into place & the torque plate (dummy head) is fitted.
(Up to 4/100mm (0.0015”) on some engines)
As the clearance on our forged pistons is only 2~3/100mm (0.0008” to 0.0012”),
Though I’m not familiar with the clearances applicable to the pistons you’ve got,
In the end, it doesn’t really matter.
It just pays to be sure the bore is actually round when in its run condition.
To prepare the block for machining,
The main caps are fitted & torqued into place 1st (in sequence), followed by the torque plate.
(Fitted & torqued a if fitting a head including an old, clean head gasket)
We use factory bolts & torque specs to do this so the correct amount of thread is engaged & the block is stressed as it would be normally.

Regarding the crank,
A full knife edge & polish is a good thing for response,
Rather than going to town with polishing it though, it’s just as effective to coat the crank webs with an oil dispersant coating.
(Good for inside of block also)
The trouble with doing this sort of work is it can become horribly expensive.
When loads of material is removed, you’ve got balancing to consider…
+ shot penning & heat treatment
Knife edging, under size bearings, balancing & heat treatment is about as far as you’d go without becoming totally uneconomical.
If you’re going to go to town, a lightweight forged crank from Eagle can be a viable alternative.

[Slow96GSR]

LOL… we agree on something… Time for a beer eh?

Regarding torque plate,
We always use a torque plate when boring & honing any engine,
Rather than just being good practice to follow there is method to the madness.
Though the bores in a HONDA B-series engine block are floating,
they can distort a considerable amount when the main caps are fitted & torqued into place & the torque plate (dummy head) is fitted.
(Up to 4/100mm (0.0015”) on some engines)
As the clearance on our forged pistons is only 2~3/100mm (0.0008” to 0.0012”),
Though I’m not familiar with the clearances applicable to the pistons you’ve got,
In the end, it doesn’t really matter.
It just pays to be sure the bore is actually round when in its run condition.
To prepare the block for machining,
The main caps are fitted & torqued into place 1st (in sequence), followed by the torque plate.
(Fitted & torqued a if fitting a head including an old, clean head gasket)
We use factory bolts & torque specs to do this so the correct amount of thread is engaged & the block is stressed as it would be normally.

Regarding the crank,
A full knife edge & polish is a good thing for response,
Rather than going to town with polishing it though, it’s just as effective to coat the crank webs with an oil dispersant coating.
(Good for inside of block also)
The trouble with doing this sort of work is it can become horribly expensive.
When loads of material is removed, you’ve got balancing to consider…
+ shot penning & heat treatment
Knife edging, under size bearings, balancing & heat treatment is about as far as you’d go without becoming totally uneconomical.
If you’re going to go to town, a lightweight forged crank from Eagle can be a viable alternative.

We always torque plate every block we do, it’s just the right way to so stuff like Toda said. Also I’m glad to see someone there knows about the coatings! They can run quite a bit, especially if you do a whole motor. The crank was like $75USD but the block is about $250USD, but that includes the main caps too. My while motor and tranny have the coatings as you know and it was only about $3500USD to do it all and then some. I’m sure you know all the other tings to do like balancing and setup so I won’t get in to details there. I forgot about the X-mas holiday, but hurry up! Lol!

Crank with oil shedder:


Inside of block with oil shedder:

[Slow96GSR]

Lol ya 2-5 hp is nothing, but running 20-30% cooler isn't nothing either. Means you can put more in to the motor than you wanted to in the first place. Imagine running a smaller and lighter FMIC and staying as cool as the guy who doesn't have coatings and has to run a cooling sprayer, large FMIC, and less boost. 20-30% cooler is an awesome thing. Also the crank coating helps cut down windage which in it's own way adds power. And yes I know this is an N.A. setup! Spend the money on the crank, you can get by with out the rest, imho.

PS: looking at my motor still turns me on!! Ain't she sexay?!!