NA tuning

**Civic Type R** · 07-10-2003 01:27 PM

OK i have a B16A which is fully stock.
So far i have got a Cold Air Intake with K&N filter.

I am getting a Mugen 4-1 extractor and full 2 1/4 cat back system very soon.
I am also about to get (if lucky) a set of JDM CTR cams.
Im also looking at getting an Apexi Vafc, H22A injectors, and maybe some adjust ble Cam gears.
I dont plan to revv to 10k so i dont think i'll need a second set of valve springs.
Will i need a Fuel Pressure reg. ?

Anyone have any suggestions ..

**one more chance** · 07-10-2003 02:04 PM

the VAFC should do the trick just fine, but the problem with them is you need to get the settings absolutely spot on, and this takes alot of time and mucking around. i'm my opinion you're better off with something like a microtech comp of somesort which allows you to play with everything from fuel and air rations, to ignition timing to vtec settings. very handy if you have other plans for the future too.

as for the valve springs....if u don't plan on revving it pass 9K, then stock ones should do the trick just fine. after the mods, get the car on the dyno, if your car starves of fuel, then yes you will need a FPR!

**Civic Type R** · 07-10-2003 02:52 PM

Im yet to fully decide im the EK9 cams will be installed.
It al depends on cost and tuning costs.

I may just sell them to someone here if the offer is right.
However im still keen to do everything else ...

**one more chance** · 07-10-2003 07:15 PM

you may as well install the b16b head it'll give you good gains throughout the power curve........

tell us how u go...

**Civic Type R** · 07-10-2003 07:50 PM

yeah that would be nice :P
but my budget doesnt cover that just yet ..

**VTEC16** · 25-01-2004 01:42 PM

???

EDIT: LOL....ok my keyboard has died...It wont let me 'backspace' or use most of the keys (including ALL vowels!)!!...which explains the above post...

I was just wondering wot was happening with the progression of your car?

Do you still plan on installing the CTR cams, cam gears and vafc?

Im planning on going with a similar path with my EK4.....the only factors in my way being time and money........hmmmmm :x

**hondar** · 26-01-2004 06:32 PM

i think it is worthwhile to consider what you want in the end. ie what is your goal?

a quick one,
why do you need h22 injectors? it doesnt matter what injectors you use but the amount being sprayed depends on the ECU. correct me if i am wrong. thats what i know

if you are going CTR cams, you cant use your stock spring of b16a. they are too soft. you need a better one. a type r valve springs otherwise at high rev, it will bind.

you need to intsalled it at a height of a stock that is 1.32-1.325 inch spring installed height. Type r valvesprings have a resting installed seat pressure of around 50-55 psi and bind above 155 psi and 12 mm lift.

With vafc you need a FPR, to quote MD:
"you can only lean down with a vafc since the manifold pressure signal voltage (which is what the vafc adjusts to fake out the ecu into changing the injector pulse width) is already maxed out at WOT. You cannot artificially crank up the manifold pressure signal voltage any higher even if you set the vafc at + 15% for example.

and remember that the ecu kicks a CEL if the MAP exceeds 15% anyway since it then thinks you are running boost on the stock fuel map.

you crank up the fuel with the fpr (and injectors if needed) in the rpm range that needs more fuel. This will in turn lead you to running too rich in other parts of the rpms range...whereby you use the vafc to lean DOWN in those rpms to their ideal safe air:fuel ratio that delivers the most torque."

hope that helps. i apologised if i sound technical. didnt mean to but just trying to help people to avoid disappointment after parting with their hard earned money

**hondar** · 26-01-2004 06:37 PM

also,

a type r head doesnt give good gains across, most of the gains is at upper band. they are designed that way.

characterstic, a short intake manifold and large plenum, valve angle job, port and polish head, they are very good for upper band, maybe 5000rpm onwards but dont see much gain at low rev.

Thats why you need to ask yourself, what do you want from your mod?
low end, mid gain or high gain?
only you yourself can answer it and not anyone else.

no offence and forgive me if my words sound too harsh

**ah789454** · 29-01-2004 08:19 AM

the stock b16a valve springs are good for up to 9rpm. just ask james from hondata

**hondar** · 29-01-2004 01:40 PM

err, not so sure about that.

To quote (MD):
if you don't upgrade the valvesprings, and use the stock ones, you still will see mild valve float.

Mild valve float is not catastrophic compared to severe valve float or coil binding. But you know what valve float is right? The spring has fatigued at high rpm and loses it's ability to control the rate at which the valve closes against the seat.

The valveface slams shut against the seat and transfers this shock or load up the valve stem to the rocker arm and then to the camshaft lobe-rocker arm interface. You get extra wear-related damage and possibly structural fatigue at the valve seat, valveface, rocker arm lobe, valvespring retainer, and cam lobe.

Valve float can be identified on a chassis dynosheet as a sudden very sharp or steep drop in hp (in the order of 5% [7-10 whp] or more) at the last 500-600 rpm before the redline.

**ah789454** · 06-02-2004 10:27 PM

hondar-- thats what i thought too but james knows what he is doing. he tunes hondas all day long.....robert from hannys performance said the same thing. and that dude knows what hes toking bout...tel him sentanta

check this out
http://www.ozhonda.com/forums/viewto...46&start=0