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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CL9

    my dyno run printout

    Hi guyz.
    I dynoed my car for the first time today. Very happy with what i got. I was wonderin if anybody knew how to read the AFR graph?

    Can anyone tell me if there's anything wrong with my AFR and is there anything important about it i should know?


  2. #2
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    a/f looks ok. A piggyback comptuer should fix it up and net abit more power.

  3. #3

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CL9
    thanks guys. that clears everything up for me.



    Quote Originally Posted by pornstar View Post
    af looks crap
    fkn hom0

  5. #5
    Banned Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
    Car:
    Gen3 CRX
    afr isnt really that bad, its a good place to start.
    the big hump is only 0.5 a/f, the graphs' scale exagerates the impact.

    In fact, the curve before the hump needs to be leaned out to match the hump's peak.

    Thats about 1-2hrs work.

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Car:
    98 VTi-R Prelude
    very rich up top????

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Cabramatta
    Car:
    JDM DC2-R
    I still don't understand how to read the AFR though..
    - [ * AℓвєятяoN ] illegal street racing is bad hao map ! says:
    haha. i'll marry you.
    ||nam|| says:
    ok thats just wrong

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Car:
    98 VTi-R Prelude
    Quote Originally Posted by kyobibi View Post
    I still don't understand how to read the AFR though..
    on the rhs of the graph ull see numbers which indicate an a/f ratio....this is how many units of air to one unit of fuel expressed as a ratio.

    stoich is 14.7 but at WOT u tune richer (lower numbers) to keep the engine from causing damage. higher numbers are known as lean and can only be viable if at low load (low throttle positions) and at low rpm.
    a lean mix will result in worst cases like melted cats where rich mixes result in ditry rear bars lol and gunked up o2 sensors.

    usually stoch is used for idle and low rpm low load
    13 is used for na tuning
    12, 11 is used for turbo tuning to avoid detonation

    thats BASIC

  9. #9
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by CUL8R View Post
    a lean mix will result in worst cases like melted cats where rich mixes result in ditry rear bars lol and gunked up o2 sensors.
    That's not the worse case. This is the worse case:
    Pic from Bill Sherwood.

    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  10. #10
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Stoichiometric ratio is 14.7. I think most A/F ratios are tuned to 13:1 to obtain power, while at the same time preventing a lean condition. Yours is at 12:1 at lowcam and 12.5:1 back down to 11.5:1 at highcam. There is more potential power to be made through tuning back up to 13:1.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Car:
    98 VTi-R Prelude
    ^^^in theory yes.

    but the key is to obtain an a/f which makes maximum power, then tune the whole rpm range to that a/f.
    most n/a will be in 13...most turbo will run richer like 12 through to low 11s to avoid detonation
    atleast thats how i understand it. theres a reason i dont do the tuning on my car and pay my tuner to do it

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Car:
    98 VTi-R Prelude
    sorry...what i kinda meant was lean yet still safe

    but yes...WORST case equals some serious issues

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